Well that didn't last long!! Cracked a piston last night.

StevenStarke

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There is more that can go wrong or be installed incorrectly on the TT systems. We wont e-mail tune them for that reason. You can send out a perfect tune, but if something was done incorrectly upon installation you can have major problems.

Eric that was a very nice offer.

OP, did you confirm the actual damage or was the cracked piston an assumption? I don't mean to be a downer but it is rare that there is no residual damage to the head or cylinder wall. A used set of pistons will not likely be a cure here.

Like others have said, keep the car and be patient. Do things right and the reward will be very satisfying. You said it yourself; fast, cheap, reliable..pick 2..that said I would recommend you also get a return style fuel system instead of that boost-a-pump.


I haven't checked and don't plan to. While JPC's offer is MORE than generous, I'm not going to put used or even brand new oem pistons in. I'm going to buy another block and build it with forged lower compression internals. I'm probably going to have JPC do the build to be honest.
 

StevenStarke

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Yeaaaaaa I'm leaning towards just sending the car to JPC in a few weeks and letting them pull it apart and going from there...
 

Eric@jpc

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we will get it all fixed up.

I do not think the block is bad as i originally thought

may only need a .010 over we are cleaning it up now
 

poof100

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Edit 11/12/13

Car is now apart at JPC. Turns out #5 piston melted and #8 cracked a ring land. Block is no good for boost because I don't want to bore it. It can be bored to 0.20 over though. If anyone wants it for cheap, let me know.


I can't swing replacing the block and building it so I think a Boss short block is in my future. Billet oil pump gears, ARP heads, cometic gaskets and boss valve springs. That and a fuel system. 600whp on pump and 800whp on ethanol and I should be good to go.

Damn man, sorry to hear. Surprised it did that much damage on really no racing etc.

I might have an option for you if you are going the Boss short block route. Let me talk to Eric in the morning and I'll catch up with you.
 

RFM50

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When I built my motor, the machine shop told me they could get sleeves for cheap. If the cylinder wall is too bad you should look into replacing the sleeve. You will spend way less then a boss block that way and be able to build a stronger block.
 

CPRsm

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Sleeving isn't cheap, even if just one sleeve. It causes the block to move around and you have to go back and remachine to straighten it out. Especially the cylinder next to the pressed in sleeve. Those cylinders go out of round as well. A full sleeved block need decking,etc.

If the block is junk let me know Steve
 

stang8psi

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When my motor went it looked exactly like this.. #8piston ring led to a broken piston.. I was lucky to only do a .005 over . And it looks like your scoring depth isn't that deep I would start at a .005 and check the block.. .010 over is the max I would even think about doing anymore..
 

JUIC3D

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Crazy how fast the motor can melt without a proper tune. Good luck with the rebuild!
 

StevenStarke

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The more I think about it, I'm leaning just putting a Boss block in. The stock sleeves aren't really worth pushing past 1000 whp anyway right? I just feel like if I'm going to get pistons with upgraded pins and expensive rods, it's a waste to put them in with stock sleeves. At that point I'd rather sleeve a block, and my finances just aren't there right now. I feel like I should take it easy for now and just put a boss block in, do the head studs, oil pump gears, head gaskets and fuel system and keep it around 600-650whp on pump. Make 800whp on E85 and leave at that. I'll have this car for a long time so there will be plenty of time to do another motor a few years from now.

Even if I were to push it past that on a built bottom end, I'd then exceed the limits of the trans that much more, clutch, rear, etc...
 
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TexasStang4585

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Wow this surprises me...... not to be a dick as I have seen your car on here a few time's knowing how much money you have in it, but it looks like your in over your head financially. This should be a lesson to all who thinks about throwing tons of money in their car with no back funds. Hope it all works out for you bro but don't go for the lesser option when you paying all that money to get it back together.
 

StevenStarke

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Wow this surprises me...... not to be a dick as I have seen your car on here a few time's knowing how much money you have in it, but it looks like your in over your head financially. This should be a lesson to all who thinks about throwing tons of money in their car with no back funds. Hope it all works out for you bro but don't go for the lesser option when you paying all that money to get it back together.


Nah you're not being a dick. You're 100% right. It's good a lesson for most. I mean it's all relative though. I have a 2013 Elantra as a daily, so in theory the car could have sat for however long without me touching it while I got the funds together. Work has just been slow lately and it's hit me in the pockets hard. I've cut back in a few ways, got rid of the motorcycle earlier this year, I don't go out as much. I've had to.

I'm not cheeping out here. It's just I don't feel comfortable boring it out and I just feel like if I'm going to spend $1800 on internals and machine work, I'd rather go ALL OUT and do a sleeved motor, trans, etc... Being that I def can't reasonably swing all of that right now, I think keeping the power level down on a boss setup is a better idea. Who knows, I may even just leave it on E85 all the time and put the car around 700whp and keep it that way. I'm going to see how it goes. I thought it would last on the stock motor for at least 2014 and I wouldn't be doing this until next winter. I'm strapped for car $ because I had JUST got the TT and got it in, and it was a big expense. I can only spend so much on the car every 6 months ya know. Bills have to come first!!
 

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