I regret all the money on looks not on power add.
what mods do you regret?
- Thread starter LTHL VNM
- Start date
My spec 3+ was a complete bastard until about 600-700 miles. I gave mine a hard break in though...it was chattering like a bitch...did a strong 1-4 pull around 600 miles in and all of a sudden the chatter was gone, lol.
comp stage 3 cams!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! bought the car with them but guess what....they suck!!!!!!!!
I agree with ya Kel....
Ive never felt the stock shifter either, but from what I have heard...Its a pain.
Ive never felt the stock shifter either, but from what I have heard...Its a pain.
Mine went away, course I sprayed the heck out of it slipping it from a dig. I've got a bad left ankle too so have the optional lpr p/p. My wife drives it and doesn't complain, what does that tell you? It is harder to slip than a stocker. I had some mazda miata guy drive it w/o stalling it.
Wow , I think some of you should stop working on you car!!
I have the triax, hps pads, bassani catted x and other things that people said they regretted
there nothing I regret except maybe getting a billetflow pulley instead of the steeda kit
I installed everything myself and taken care doing it
my steeda shifts a lot better and a lot lighter than a few mgw's ive tried
my x pipe has never had issues with the cats and doesnt hang low
and my hps pads are quiet(they are dusty though) and my rotorpros slotted rotors havent cracked after 20k
also , my friend in his terminator with mac longtubes and identical mods as me has 20 more hp than me tuned by the same tuner, and has never had any problems with leaks
maybe its all in the install???
I greased up my shifter well, I used amsoil syncromesh in the trans, I pushed up the X pipe while bolting it up , bedded in the pads correctly when I installed them and my friend checked his header bolt torque after driving it, maybe some of you arent doing these things???
I have the triax, hps pads, bassani catted x and other things that people said they regretted
there nothing I regret except maybe getting a billetflow pulley instead of the steeda kit
I installed everything myself and taken care doing it
my steeda shifts a lot better and a lot lighter than a few mgw's ive tried
my x pipe has never had issues with the cats and doesnt hang low
and my hps pads are quiet(they are dusty though) and my rotorpros slotted rotors havent cracked after 20k
also , my friend in his terminator with mac longtubes and identical mods as me has 20 more hp than me tuned by the same tuner, and has never had any problems with leaks
maybe its all in the install???
I greased up my shifter well, I used amsoil syncromesh in the trans, I pushed up the X pipe while bolting it up , bedded in the pads correctly when I installed them and my friend checked his header bolt torque after driving it, maybe some of you arent doing these things???
fake boobies cuz they taste funny.... JK LOL!!! my car, everything i bought to cure wheel hop when all i found 2 fix it is air press. and tires
My spec 3+ clutch. Piece of crap chatters like a mofo and vibrates and rattles the drive train to hell when trying to park or move in the garage etc. It makes the car seem like a cheap rattle trap. Every traffic light is just plain embarrassing with cars next to you. They say it goes away after 500 miles. After 300 miles I noticed a big reduction in the chatter but now at 750 it's no different than it was at 300. I hate it I hate it I hate it I hate it. Did I mention I hate it?
hey malcolm..did you resurfaced the old flywheel or did you install a new one?
i installed my spec 2+ with a new fidanza and there is no chatter. it could have to do with the flywheel....my old spec 3 chatter till the end with my stocked resurfaced....sorry to hear....just my 2 cents.
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^ Did you read my post? To wear it in you slip it a lot off a stoplight or whatever. I suspect you baby it too much. At 1.5k mi she was smooth but it still grabs quickly. I mean like do 1.5k slips off a light everytime you get a chance. 2k if you can do that w/o causing a commotion. A 1k mi I did the spray to it, by 1.5k mi it was good.
All I have to say is adjustment or not driving it right. The Spec 3+ is a good clutch IMO. It grabs hard...but if you aren't slipping the clutch right it will chatter for the first 1000 miles.
Why?
L.L.
Lol JK JK
Lol JK JK
Its bad had to use mine for 2 weeks during my t56 swap and it sucked!
I did get my flywheel resurfaced. I'd read about the chatter and wanted to make sure I got rid of it. However when reading about it I had no idea how bad it would be. It's much worse than how a stock clutch chatters on a warped flywheel.
It is possible I just need to get more aggressive with it. I did indeed baby it for the first 500 miles because I put it in at the same time as my brand new freshly rebuilt motor that I'm taking it easy on and breaking in. However I'm up to 750 ~ 800 mile range and I'll start getting on the gas a little more aggressively from the traffic lights and slip the clutch
Adjustment is good. In fact I had to preload it quite a bit because that spec included throw out bearing makes a lot of noise. When I'd sit idling or even driving next to a wall or other cars I could hear the noise echoing off them. When my car was sitting idling in the driveway and I was outside I could hear the clatter sound of the TOB. When driving I could hear it coming through the shifter area. Another thing I was disappointed in. When you pay $500 for a clutch you don't expect the TOB to be a piece of crap that makes all kinds of noise. When I start to push in the clutch pedal preloading up the TOB the noise would go away so I kept adjusting my fiore firewall adjuster till I got rid of the sound. I had to use the third hook on the UPR tripple hook quadrant. A side affect of preloading the clutch tightly is that you now limit pedal travel so when you push the clutch to the floor it actually stops about 1/4" or so from the floor so the car won't start because the clutch safety switch is not fully depressed. You can either force the pedal down (owch) or put a zip tie around the shaft of the safety switch so it presses in earlier than before.
All these little things add up to ones overall impression of a product and combined with that nasty chatter I have to say I'm not a fan of the spec clutch one bit and will never buy another one. In fact if this chatter doesn't let up by 2k miles or so its coming out and something else is going in. My stock clutch was actually just fine. The only reason I upgraded to the 26 spline was because I twisted two stock 10 spline input shafts. Oh well, the way it goes sometimes when you play.
I love this thread :-D
Yes I had a new flywheel and the 26 spline 3+ spec w lpr p/p. I admit it is harder to slip just right off a dig on so so streets but it holds the spray fine so far. The clutch has really no marcel spring to speak of so it will hold more hp/tq. I enjoy the 30# pedal pressure p/p a lot. It doesn't break the stock clutch cable either. Def made the car faster in shifting. Car jumps on shifts and twists the body w 17" et streets even w/o spray w the tokico drag struts. I highly recommend those also. Drives like a dream, no noises at all even on 1 setting. 2 and 3 is like crown vic ride. I've heard the d spec is as good also.
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