what mods do you regret?

[Jroc]

Hawk HPS pads.

 

[Frankiebonez]

Why do you regret some nice street pads?

 

[Jroc]

Why do you regret some nice street pads?

Because there are much better street pads out there. If you were to ride in my car I promise you that you would understand.

Why do some people regret a Tri-Ax when its a nice shifter? Because it doesn't suit them, or work as good for them as it does for me. These pads don't suit me.

Here's a post I made earlier today.

That is an extremely good price compared to what they normally go for, but seriously just get some Motorcraft pads. Over the past 2 weeks I've become a Mustang Cobra, PBR 2 piston caliper, brake changing expert. I've had my front brakes off my car 5 times since installing my new brakes 3 weeks ago. Mine have this freakishly loud squeak/squeal/chirp. I could of had the windows up, and the radio as loud as it could play and still hear these things. I put new antisqueal on them 4 times each time trying something new, and getting more aggressive with the amount I used. I've got them mostly quiet now even though when driving in something that amplifies an exhaust they will become very noticable still.(under a bridge, or tunnel, etc) What I had to do to get them to the point they are at now is to put 3 coats of "CRC Disc Brake Quiet" all over the whole pad/springs(and inside the calipers also) except for the friction surfaces that contact the rotors.(I mean heavy coats. Soak it down, let it dry, and then soak it down again) After that dries to the point of it being stick I put a heavy coat of "AGS Sil-Glyde Brake Lubricant" on top of that, and that has seemed to have gotten ride of 90% of the noise. When cold they are still pretty noise though.

As far as stopping goes they do a good job of it when you slam on the brakes, but so do Motorcraft pads. If Hawk HPS pads are a 10 at stopping the vehicle when you slam on the brakes then the Motorcraft pads are a close 9. Actually with Motorcraft pads the car is easier to control when slamming on the brakes as the Hawk pads want to lock them up, and then the ABS wants to start fighting them. The HPS pads use a pretty damn hard compound. My rotor have a blueish tint to them after running them for several weaks.

As far as dust goes these HPS pads seem to dust like a mofo, and are worse than the Motorcraft pads.

I've talked to the owner of the performance shop I use to ask him any advice on about these pads, and he told me that Hawk pads are kind of hit or miss. Some people put them on and love them, and they work great with no noise or anything, but other people put them on, and they're terrible the noise they make, and it drives them crazy. If I had to do it again I would of just gotten some more Motorcraft pads as their good performing, worry free pads.

 

[CPViolation]

Having Lifetime Muffler build me a custom Borla exhaust catback set-up.
Bends everywhere.. The welds looked like a five year old did the job.
What a waste of money. Ripped it out and installed a real Bassani catback set-up.
Jeff

 

[antiv6]

Buying an slp catted x pipe. The cats hang way to damn low. It scraped on everything even before i was lowered

 

[mitrls10]

Dang thats crazy all of you guys not liking some of the mods you have and maybe its just me and the way I drive but I take it easy and drive normal for the most part until I get some1 that tries me and the gas goes to the floor til i'm out of sight or they back off and I go up and down my street after I mod it and do test runs and no problems yet but knock on wood.

but I have 12" filter, bigger maf housing, c and l trueflow inlet pipe, accufab s/b tb and billetflow intake plenum and it idles perfect (I usually see alot of that having to do with the tune if you have problems though).

Spec stage 2 clutch, had for 4000 miles and its great but I could probably do with a new quadrant since the stock 1 is on there and feels kinda flimsy when I depress the clutch. What does every1 suggest on them?

Have Mac Lt headers, into stock converters, into mac prochamber h-pipe, into dual chamber flows and out and have had no leaks and no problems.

Just put H & R Race springs on it 2 days ago with stock iso's but the upper rears removed and already had subframe connectors, 3 pt front strut tower brace, adjustable rear strut tower brace, styling bar, rear diff brace and the ride height is perfect 1/2" diff in rake from the front to rear and the exhaust is 3" off the ground and I'm used to drving a airbagged and bodydropped s10 that my ride height stays at 1/2" off the ground unless I'm turning, speed bumps, or huge inclines and I hardly ever scraped with the s10. Cobra has no creaks or squeaks and rides like a vette, no body roll and just a all around great ride.

No probs out of vert top and it has 53k miles on it and no wind or water leaks and everything is still smooth.

I dunno what shifter is in it I'm assuming its a mgw or tri-ax since the previous owner said it was the best and most expensive 1 made for it but I'm 6'1" tall and have a normal arm reach for some1 that tall and I have the seat almost all the way up and my legs are bent a lot and I have to still have to lean up outta the seat to reach and shift it lol any1 else have that problem??

All in all tho I regret none of the mods I've done to it and I do a whole lotta research and read alotta reviews b4 I buy something anyways..

 

[Frankiebonez]

Because there are much better street pads out there. If you were to ride in my car I promise you that you would understand.

Why do some people regret a Tri-Ax when its a nice shifter? Because it doesn't suit them, or work as good for them as it does for me. These pads don't suit me.

Here's a post I made earlier today.

Interesting, as I dont have any of the issues that you have with the brakes locking up or the squeeking pads, although they are quite dusty.

Brakes locking up could be the tires/suspension you have on the car. If your tires grip well enough your brakes should never lock up, technically speaking until you reach the grip threshold of your tires.

How much were the motorcraft pads, and how much less dust do they produce?

 

[Jroc]

Interesting, as I dont have any of the issues that you have with the brakes locking up or the squeeking pads, although they are quite dusty.

Brakes locking up could be the tires/suspension you have on the car. If your tires grip well enough your brakes should never lock up, technically speaking until you reach the grip threshold of your tires.

How much were the motorcraft pads, and how much less dust do they produce?

I was running Falken RT615's when I started slamming on them. They don't just straight lock, but lock/release, lock/release if I lay into they like I'm trying not to hit a kid in the road or something.(the tires go to chirping) I don't see how the tires have anything to do with it. I agree they'll halt the car pretty good.

I found Motorcraft pads at whole prices from Rockauto.(less than $90) They are the same a the factory pads. If you've owned your car with factory pads then you know how the Motorcraft pads are. Rockauto sent me pads with broken off springs and one that never had springs to begin with so I am sending them back. They would send me some new ones, but I have play around with the HPS pads enough to get them to acceptible levels for me, but you can still hear them with the radio off.

I have talked to people on here that say they love these pads, and others that say they can't get them to stop squeaking.
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/suspension-modifications-211/621415-fixing-glazed-rotors.html

 

[KILRSVT]

i deeply regret getting my el cheapo front brake rotors and pads....what a piece they warped within a week.....the pads are ok but the rotors suck...i also regret the SVT stencil i painted it red and it seems pink now.....although people tell me it looks cool.
getting rid of the stencil and getting some quality brakes for a change

 

[B-O-B'03]

I regret ordering the MM SFC's a week before the HANS Racecraft SFC group buy was announced

I am glad I waited, I love my Hans SFC, turned my convertible into a different car :rockon:

-Brian

 

[RussZTT]

While I only have about 500-600 miles on my clutch, so far I hate the Spec 3+. Chatter doesn't seem to be getting better. My driveway has a slight incline, trying to make it into the garage without revving the car up to not wake the girlfriend coming home at 6am sucks.

 

[BOSS 32V]

BBK T/B, driveability sucks with it, stock one flows enough.

Procharger F1-A cogged race kit, too loud for the street.

Innovate wideband, o2 sensor don't last 1 day with race gas...

 

[evn62719]

The best piece of advice I can give after owing the car for 3 years and it sitting at a shop for 2 and a half is research the hell out of who you let work on it. Dont just take it to who is closer or who gives you a cheaper quote. Take it somewhere with a national reputation like modular power house. Its even a plus when the shop owner is kind of a ass (like at MPH) and doesnt want to hang around all day and BS with you. It's much better to have someone that is commited to working on cars all day at the shop and not just hanging out all day. It's very frustrating when they tell you theres still more stuff to be done on your car and when you show up, all of their buddies are hanging out in the shop cutting up.

 

[KILRSVT]

+1^^^

 

[Adroitmustang]

1) Racecraft tubular K member....

Spent 4 hours removing old, swapping a arms, lining up the new just so... to find out they sent me one with rack mounts in the wrong place (like for a manual rack). I got the joy of doing a full K member R&R... with the same set-up before and after!

Even better I couldn't send it back!

I'm now happy with retaining the oem k member!

2) Fluidyne Heat Exchanger- I forgot where I ordered it from, but they advertised it as fitting the 03 cobras (I bought mine in 2002 so not many terminator specific parts available yet). They sent a lightning intercooler with generic mounts and it hung way to low....scraping everthing!

 

[rotor_powerd]

Great thread, keep em coming! Anybody regret running a drag setup on the street longterm? And lets here from more solid axle guys...pros? Cons?

I used to hate SRA swaps, always wondered why anyone would want to "downgrade" their car. Wound up doing it myself out of curiosity/boredom, and it's turned out to be one of my favorite mods to my car. Honestly, the ride is not noticeably different on the street, and being able to put down the power without worry of hop/halfshafts is a nice feature. I'm on 345/40/17 Toyo TQ's, and I can punch it anywhere in 1st on the street and it just takes off. :rockon::rockon:

 

[notchstang92]

Steeda Triax shifter. So notchy and uncomfortable to shift with. Also had more effort to reach 3rd gear where my Pro 5.0 goes right in with little effort every time. I also wouldn't have bought the 100 psi mechanical autometer oil pressure gauge when they make a 150 psi one.

 

[.n0b.]

While I only have about 500-600 miles on my clutch, so far I hate the Spec 3+. Chatter doesn't seem to be getting better. My driveway has a slight incline, trying to make it into the garage without revving the car up to not wake the girlfriend coming home at 6am sucks.

You know, I keep hearing that clutch has the worst chatter imaginable during break-in and sometimes after. But most guys say it goes away around 1000 miles. Is that true to you Spec 3+ owners?

 

[stangliter04]

Worst mod to date has been the BAP... Nothing wrong with it I just should have gotten the FORE hat with GT pumps. Gives me some room to grow

 

[03zincyellowsvt]

slp lm 1 cat back and catted x pipe, the worst fitting stuff ever will never buy slp products ever again, not to mention it unbearably loud