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Start 'N Charge alternators 03-04 only please!
- Thread starter START 'N CHARGE
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Thanks. Would be great if someone took this project on or picked up where that other kit left off?
That signature is ridiculous.
well guys im reporting back. Jamie got me taken care of with speed, got it back today and bam were ready to beat the ass of this thing again. everything is working great, thanks again Jamie for taking care of me on the issues. great guy to deal with.....
Jamie,
Maybe you have some ideas. My car had the stock battery and alternator still. I started getting the battery light under WOT.
So I purchased your optional 160 amp alternator and wire upgrade and also installed the 3.2 pulley. I also got a brand new battery. I still have the problem. I had given you a call and you suggested I get my alternator professionally tested by a real alternator shop instead of the local auto parts guys who typically don't really know what they're doing.
I did just that and the alternator shop says the alternator is good. I then replaced all the grounds such as from the engine to subframe with heavy 2 & 4 gauge cables instead of the flimsy steal braided factory stuff and I thought it had fixed the issue but it came back. I've noticed more recently it'll even do it randomly when idling but 99% of the time it's under WOT. Data logs show voltage dipping to mid 11s under WOT which is what's triggering the battery light on the dash.
I'm not sure what else to check. Maybe my new battery is bad and I should replace it again? The autoparts guys claim it's fine. They stick a meter on it that pulls a load for a few seconds and go no it's good, see you later. Not sure that's a good enough test.
Malcolm
Maybe you have some ideas. My car had the stock battery and alternator still. I started getting the battery light under WOT.
So I purchased your optional 160 amp alternator and wire upgrade and also installed the 3.2 pulley. I also got a brand new battery. I still have the problem. I had given you a call and you suggested I get my alternator professionally tested by a real alternator shop instead of the local auto parts guys who typically don't really know what they're doing.
I did just that and the alternator shop says the alternator is good. I then replaced all the grounds such as from the engine to subframe with heavy 2 & 4 gauge cables instead of the flimsy steal braided factory stuff and I thought it had fixed the issue but it came back. I've noticed more recently it'll even do it randomly when idling but 99% of the time it's under WOT. Data logs show voltage dipping to mid 11s under WOT which is what's triggering the battery light on the dash.
I'm not sure what else to check. Maybe my new battery is bad and I should replace it again? The autoparts guys claim it's fine. They stick a meter on it that pulls a load for a few seconds and go no it's good, see you later. Not sure that's a good enough test.
Malcolm
I would have to look into what's available to build them.What kind of failures are you seeing?
Malcolm,i'm not sure what else would cause it.Youve covered all the bases,is the locking clip still intact on the regulator plug?Battery wouldn't cause the light to come on.
I can't answer that on the forum,i'd be in violation of the board rules,I only post technical help.Hope you understand.:burnout:
Malcom I have had two Ford batteries and both times Autozone told me they were good. I then took them to Ford and they came up with a bad cell on there full battery tester. Maybe something to think about.
I'm sure that my first bad battery put a killing on my ALT which then took out my new Ford Battery. Since I wasnt driving it hard and keeping it on a trickle charger it wasnt giving me issues. The first time i took it for a sprinted drive at night with HIDS on she cut off on me.
Bad cell again according to Ford, autozone said it was good. (I only took it to autozone first out of curiosity with there battery testers) It was under warranty so Ford replaced it and I ordered a mechman unit and will be upgrading all grounds.
Get your battery tested someone else just to rule it out.
I'm sure that my first bad battery put a killing on my ALT which then took out my new Ford Battery. Since I wasnt driving it hard and keeping it on a trickle charger it wasnt giving me issues. The first time i took it for a sprinted drive at night with HIDS on she cut off on me.
Bad cell again according to Ford, autozone said it was good. (I only took it to autozone first out of curiosity with there battery testers) It was under warranty so Ford replaced it and I ordered a mechman unit and will be upgrading all grounds.
Get your battery tested someone else just to rule it out.
Well I noticed my battery was only showing 12.3 volts fully charged and when cranking over it sounded like the starter motor was laboring. Signs that I did indeed have a bad brand new battery and it's deteriorating.
I drove the car back to Advance to see if they could swap it out since it's only a year old now and has free 36 month replacement. They put their meter on and say oh battery tests just fine but needs to be charged lol. I pointed out its in the car which I'm driving all over. This is as charged as it gets. I've even left a trickle charger on it over night. Eventually they swapped it and sure enough no more battery light. However before calling it fixed I'll give it a few days. I've had this happen before where the light won't come on for a few days and then just returns constantly.
Sure looks like I had a bad new battery though at this time.
I drove the car back to Advance to see if they could swap it out since it's only a year old now and has free 36 month replacement. They put their meter on and say oh battery tests just fine but needs to be charged lol. I pointed out its in the car which I'm driving all over. This is as charged as it gets. I've even left a trickle charger on it over night. Eventually they swapped it and sure enough no more battery light. However before calling it fixed I'll give it a few days. I've had this happen before where the light won't come on for a few days and then just returns constantly.
Sure looks like I had a bad new battery though at this time.
Nope problem came back. New battery didn't fix it. However I did notice when I take it out and hammer on it, it seems like it's only the first few pulls it does it then stops. That's exactly how my last new battery started out and slowly deteriorated. Is it possible for the alternator to be killing my new batteries?
You battery needs at least 12 volts from the alternator to replace the power that the battery is using. (these cars use every bit of 12 volts) If it does not have the 12 volts your battery will start to drain. With everything running well you should be charging at 13.5-14.0 volts. Usually when you are charging any lower then that you have a weak alternator.
Hope this helps
Problem doesn't show up at idle. Only when you go WOT. I replaced my factory alternator which died with a start n charge upgrade (160 amp or what ever it was) plus the upgraded wiring. I started having this low battery light show up on my dash when I go WOT and I data logged 11.3 volts at WOT. I've upgraded ground connections to heavy 2 and 4 gauge wires. Replaced the battery with a brand new one twice now.
Alternator shop tested my start n charge and say it's good but I have doubts as I'm not sure what else to replace at this point.
My original alternator went bad so I recently got a Start 'n Charge. I am having the exact same problem with the battery light now. I have a new Motorcraft battery AND a new Start 'n Charge alternator, both installed within the last several weeks. It does not happen every time, but I am getting the battery light intermittently under WOT/high rpm. Starts as early as 4,000 rpm sometimes.
My car is basically stock. I know that my stock alternator was bad for sure. What is interesting is that I never had the battery light come on UNTIL I put the new Start 'n Charge in.
Would belt slip cause this? I have all stock pulleys and belt, except I used the new gold pulley that came with my Start 'n Charge. I'm at a loss.
I am NOT blaming Jamie (Start 'n Charge) by the way. I was very happy to deal with him. I have not had the chance to contact him yet, and I am confident that if it is a problem with his part, that he will take care of it. I just thought it would be helpful to post since I'm having the exact same problem with a new battery and new alt.
My car is basically stock. I know that my stock alternator was bad for sure. What is interesting is that I never had the battery light come on UNTIL I put the new Start 'n Charge in.
Would belt slip cause this? I have all stock pulleys and belt, except I used the new gold pulley that came with my Start 'n Charge. I'm at a loss.
I am NOT blaming Jamie (Start 'n Charge) by the way. I was very happy to deal with him. I have not had the chance to contact him yet, and I am confident that if it is a problem with his part, that he will take care of it. I just thought it would be helpful to post since I'm having the exact same problem with a new battery and new alt.
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I have never seen any results of any alternator that is charging at 13.5-14.0 volts with all the accessories on at wot. Do you have datalogs to prove your point?
Yup same issues here. When my original alternator died I purchased the high output start n charge and a brand new battery. Did the heavy wire upgrade and at the advice of Jamie I also put on the larger 3.2 (I think that's the size) Metco pulley on the alternator. Ever since I've had the battery light on under WOT. Data logging around 11 ~ 11.3 volts under WOT. I've replaced and upgraded all my ground wiring from motor to chassis etc. and still have the problem. I then replaced the battery a second time with another brand new unit and the issue is still there.
I think I'm going to put the stock alternator pulley back on and see if that fixes it. About the only thing I haven't tried. After that I guess I'll be getting an autoparts store alternator because this is not working for me.
Well I tried removing the metco pulley and put the stock alternator pulley back on and no difference. 3k rpms or so and don't even have to fully WOT but just stab on the throttle aggressively and battery light on. I was testing at night this time and noticed I can actually see the head lights dim as this happens.
Ugg so two brand new batteries, grounding cables upgrade, man positive wire from alternator upgrade, new belt, back to original pulley on the alternator. At this point I have nothing left but the alternator itself?
Jamie, I pulled the start-n-charge alternator and had it tested by my local auto parts store as well as an alternator rebuild shop like you asked me to. Unfortunately I think their single speed low RPM test is just not simulating a WOT pull where it fails so they tell me it's good. I hate to spend another $250 at Advance Auto and get another alternator to swap out just to verify but not sure how else.
Ideas?
Ugg so two brand new batteries, grounding cables upgrade, man positive wire from alternator upgrade, new belt, back to original pulley on the alternator. At this point I have nothing left but the alternator itself?
Jamie, I pulled the start-n-charge alternator and had it tested by my local auto parts store as well as an alternator rebuild shop like you asked me to. Unfortunately I think their single speed low RPM test is just not simulating a WOT pull where it fails so they tell me it's good. I hate to spend another $250 at Advance Auto and get another alternator to swap out just to verify but not sure how else.
Ideas?
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I wish I had an exact answer to the high RPM light problem.I've seen it on a lot of units,not just mine.I've been thinking it over for quite some time, and have come up with an idea.:idea:
Stock units use 25amp soldered button diodes.
The rectifiers I've been using have spot welded avalanche 50amp press fit can diodes.Very heavy duty.
All diodes leak at a certain amperage,hence the rating. With the 200amp stators i'm using (I call them 160amp but they are marketed as 200amp) I'm thinking POSSIBLY they are leaking at full output , which could trigger the light.
I can't prove it on the bench,it's just a thought at this point.
So I found a place that makes a 70amp diode version rectifier,I have 3 on order & will get those built,first one will be to replace yours & see if my theory is correct.
It's just strange how this only happens on a small number of units I sell.It's only the 03-04 Cobras,the V6 GT's work just fine,same alternator besides the pulley.But I do see it as a problem & am looking to eliminate it for once & for all.
Stock units use 25amp soldered button diodes.
The rectifiers I've been using have spot welded avalanche 50amp press fit can diodes.Very heavy duty.
All diodes leak at a certain amperage,hence the rating. With the 200amp stators i'm using (I call them 160amp but they are marketed as 200amp) I'm thinking POSSIBLY they are leaking at full output , which could trigger the light.
I can't prove it on the bench,it's just a thought at this point.
So I found a place that makes a 70amp diode version rectifier,I have 3 on order & will get those built,first one will be to replace yours & see if my theory is correct.
It's just strange how this only happens on a small number of units I sell.It's only the 03-04 Cobras,the V6 GT's work just fine,same alternator besides the pulley.But I do see it as a problem & am looking to eliminate it for once & for all.
Well I'm glad I'm not the only one and it's a known problem you're working on. Sometimes products need some tweaking to get just right
One of those things. I'm sure you'll get it figured out.Do I need to ship you the alternator for the new diodes or is that something I'll be able to swap out at home when the time comes?
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