BMR Tech
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  • Hello sir do you have a minute to spare to talk about the setting on some Dual adjustable VIking shocks?
    hey, your inbox is full. I cant PM you, but here's the content. You can PM me back :)

    Hey there good sir, was wondering if you could please help. I recently installed your 1.5'' lowering springs, LCA with mount (middle hole), adjustable panhard bar (non-BMR), koni oranges. I haven't had alignment done yet, still waiting on my camber plates.

    So my car feels like rough on ramps/curvy roads. The rear end seems a little shaky when I am in a curve, i had a similar feeling last night when i did a quick u turn. From shaky lets like an oscillating prong/when you see people 'making love' in a parked vehicle lol. I am sure I have all of the bolts torqued up. I spoke to a few people, and they thrust angle could be off a little. But still I don't know if it can cause such a problem?

    Any idea what it could be?
    Hey I seen a post made a long time ago where you commented running 99-04 gt springs upfront on your cobra. Was just curious if you left them stock or cut them, and how low your car sat? I'm doing the same to my car for better weight transfer and I'm not sure if I should cut them being they are a softer rate. Thanks I'm advance for the help.

    Hello. Any coupons or discounts going on right now? Im interested in purchasing a UCA with the mount. You offer free shipping through ebay but not through this site.
    Hello, i just order none adjustable spherical/poly LCA's, relocation brackets and adjustable UCA with mount for my 2012 mustang gt. I have an eibach pro kit plus with 1" front and 1.5" rear drop springs. I was wondering what holes you would recommend for the uca and relocation bracket? Its a DD and i prefer good handling over hard launches, i do a lot of road courses and mountain road carving. I take it to the strip maybe once or twice a year. And what would be the correct pinion angle so shoot for? Thanks!
    Part 3 of message, with quotes from others (not me):

    If you are spending money on a K-member for handling purposes (i.e. less nose weight, stiffer, etc...), chances are you have already spent the money on lowering springs and other suspension mods. It just doesn't make sense to install an aftermarket K-member that doesn't correct the suspension geometry of a lowered car.

    If they haven't changed this already, BMR should put out a next generation K-member to allow for this. All it takes is a set of mounting holes slightly higher than stock.

    Thank you.

    Tom AKA Brute
    Part 2 of the message:
    3. I am also writing because I have seen posts from others like the following:

    As good a company as BMR is, their K-member and A-arms just haven't given the warm and fuzzies to the cornercarvers here. Do a search and you will see plenty of, uh, spirited commentary.

    Regarding their K-member, it isn't ideal for road course work or autocrossing. The main reason being that it doesn't appear to allow for repositioning of the A-arms to offset suspension geometry change (lowered roll center) that results from installation of lowering springs. If my take on this is wrong, someone please chime in.
    Hi, Kelly,

    Part 1 of the message from SVT Member "Brute": I have a 2012 GT500 which will have a BMR front (K-member; non-adj, standard A-Arms; Radiator Support; Radiator-Chassis Support; and A-Arm Support). I will have a Griggs SS Rear with a Watts link and front/rear coil overs installed after the BMR front is installed.

    I drive on tracks like Willow Springs, Spring Mountain, and Auto Club (Fontana). I also like Autocrossing, and I want to do much better against those annoying Miatas.

    I want to make the installation of the BMR products (by my buddy who is a 15 year, seasoned BMW technician) to be as painless as possible and for the front suspension to be as "tuned in" as possible.

    1. Would you please let me know the net weight loss to expect off the front end?

    2. Would you please give us (my buddy and me) as many installation and tuning tips as you can muster to make this GT500 as blazingly fast and a corner carving monster as possible?
    Or was told it could just be they need to settle? I installed the proper way, making sure I didn't scar the strut rod inside the strut or any of that. Actually used an Oxygen Sensor Remover to take off the 21mm nut to install the springs. Everything was seated correctly.

    I am going to make sure everythings tight this afternoon

    Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
    I have a 2013 Race Red gt with the SP-009 springs just installed saturday along with the BMR Double Adjustable Chrome Molly PH Bar W/ Spherical Rod Ends. I'm getting no popping or anything I don't believe from the front strut mounts but the only noise i'm getting is almost a "clunking" noise when hitting a bump?

    I was told maybe to cut the rear bump stops. I know these are advertised as 1/1.25 drop but seems more like 1.25/1.5 so would I be hitting bumpstops?
    I have a 2012 gt500 with your complete suspension kit, no sway bars and your anti roll bar. QA1 single adj coil overs, viking double adj rears and your reccomended springs. looking for a base line setting on the front and rear shocks for dragracing and a setting to start for street driving if it is different. Oh, still a 6 speed.

    I would like to have you fabricate one of these adapter plates for me. I am having major problems with my sct 2600 and have just purchased a new harness to convert over to slot style, also purchased Ford gt500 maf sensor. I just need the adapter plate now. I was going to have someone locally fab it, but it looks like you have a nice setup already made. Let me know.... Rob [email protected]
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