Start 'N Charge alternators 03-04 only please!

[Fat-cat]

I wish I had an exact answer to the high RPM light problem.I've seen it on a lot of units,not just mine.I've been thinking it over for quite some time, and have come up with an idea.:idea:
Stock units use 25amp soldered button diodes.
The rectifiers I've been using have spot welded avalanche 50amp press fit can diodes.Very heavy duty.

All diodes leak at a certain amperage,hence the rating. With the 200amp stators i'm using (I call them 160amp but they are marketed as 200amp) I'm thinking POSSIBLY they are leaking at full output , which could trigger the light.

I can't prove it on the bench,it's just a thought at this point.
So I found a place that makes a 70amp diode version rectifier,I have 3 on order & will get those built,first one will be to replace yours & see if my theory is correct.
It's just strange how this only happens on a small number of units I sell.It's only the 03-04 Cobras,the V6 GT's work just fine,same alternator besides the pulley.But I do see it as a problem & am looking to eliminate it for once & for all.

SLightly off topic but i figured you boys might know. My 5.4L turbo car has been having a mess of issues this year. My car is going badly lean at WOT and i couldnt figure it out. Changed pumps no better, battery is brand new ( Red top ) so the other day driving it home. ABS light starts blinking ... sitting at a light sterio dies.... im like awww ****. rev the car up all is good. Limp it home and leave it. Go back 2 days later fires right up ( had a loose batter connection ) figured great fixed it. Take it our for a drive about 5 blocks from home Light starts blinking. No battery light just ABS> can i assume that my 01 cobra alt is DOA and needs to be replaced ? Im hoping this also fixes my lean fuel issue as the pumps are direct wire off the battery. Thoughts ? I have trunk mount battery with 0 Gauge welding cable power to my kill switch off the power post. Grounded to chases in the truck. Doubt my switch is the problem at this point

 

[mmustangsrus]

sorry to be bumping a old thread but........ my 03 cobra is doing the exact same thing. was this issuse ever resovled ? thanks :read:

Problem doesn't show up at idle. Only when you go WOT. I replaced my factory alternator which died with a start n charge upgrade (160 amp or what ever it was) plus the upgraded wiring. I started having this low battery light show up on my dash when I go WOT and I data logged 11.3 volts at WOT. I've upgraded ground connections to heavy 2 and 4 gauge wires. Replaced the battery with a brand new one twice now.
Alternator shop tested my start n charge and say it's good but I have doubts as I'm not sure what else to replace at this point.

 

[START 'N CHARGE]

Yes,problem turned out to be a worn support cup on my lathes tailstock.Rectifier/diode leakage was not the problem.

 

[mmustangsrus]

oh ok great !! i'm going to pm you :beer:

 

[MalcolmV8]

Yes,problem turned out to be a worn support cup on my lathes tailstock.Rectifier/diode leakage was not the problem.

Ah glad you found that. What was the side affect from the lathe issue? Was something shorting out or not making contact?

 

[START 'N CHARGE]

All new rotors need to have the copper slip-rings where the brushes ride trued before use.I was doing that but with the worn support on the end,they weren't coming out completely true.So at high RPM's the brushes were bouncing.I went to a German made point style support,turned a few of the problem units rotors & found the problem.
The runout on these has to be .002,which is unheard of on any other unit I've run across.

 

[countrysvt]

im wanting a alt price.. Im running whipple 3.4, 3.75 upper, stock lower, should I run a 3.2 alt pulley with your alt 160amp?
Thanks robbie

 

[JRS03]

Saving this for later use

 

[djrzapata]

I need price on a rebuild for alternator start n charge i pmed you if you can get back to me ASAP THANK YOU

 

[mrose75]

Jumping on the Start and Charge wagon as well. Do you have a website with your products or something? My stock Alt. went out at 19K. My reman started failing after I put on a 2.3 Whipple last fall at 22K. I want to fix this for good. I'm going with the 3.2 alternator pulley, ducting hoses from fog light bezel to give some cooling and ____amp Start and Charge Alt. w/_______. Fill in the blanks. Not sure what amperage alt to get and whether or not to get the wiring upgrade. But interested In prices on these products please.

 

[stanggirl14]

Jumping on the Start and Charge wagon as well. Do you have a website with your products or something? My stock Alt. went out at 19K. My reman started failing after I put on a 2.3 Whipple last fall at 22K. I want to fix this for good. I'm going with the 3.2 alternator pulley, ducting hoses from fog light bezel to give some cooling and ____amp Start and Charge Alt. w/_______. Fill in the blanks. Not sure what amperage alt to get and whether or not to get the wiring upgrade. But interested In prices on these products please.

I'd recommend going with the wiring upgrade, Jamie suggested it since I'm running a BAP, other than an issue with the regulator early on it's been running strong over a year and a half now and I drive mine almost daily

 

[CobraVic]

Alright.

So Im having a super weird issue. Its not a cobra, but it's a cobra swapped car. I mean almost full cobra swap. I couldnt use the Cobra fuel tank or the IRS....basically.

The stock alternator on the engine lasted over a year when I bought the engine, and was a stock alternator when I bought the engine/trans combo at 62k miles. It's at 72k now.

The stocker finally crapped out, so I bought a Optima oreilly's one because the motorcraft one was like 400 plus bucks lol Also the Optima has a lifetime warranty, which the motorcraft didnt.

Well, I put a new alternator back in may. And a brand new alternator three days ago. Because on a bench they passed with flying colors, but on the car, it constantly says the regulator has failed.

Some things to know. Battery has been relocated to the trunk. New engine grounds. The leads to the battery to a hot stud we made up front, and from the block to the battery ground, are all like, 2 gauge shielded, rubber wrapped 600v welding cable, so I dont think the cable is the issue.

Basically here is what has happened today.

Started the car, watched voltage sit at 13.8v. Let it sit for about 5 minutes. No issues. I know its a common battery sin to disconnect the battery while the car is running, but at this point I didnt care, so I did anyways, just to watch the alternator without the battery being part of the system. No change. 13.8. No chugging. no nothing. Reconnected the battery, slight dip because of a 12v load being applied as one would expect. No issues.

Another 5 minutes go by and I figure, shit...maybe running that new chassis to battery ground and cleaning the existing ones worked...finally....

Shut the hood...shut the trunk...sat in the seat to turn the key off and remove them....sat in the seat...heard the engine kinda chug once....like it would if say, a huge load was placed on it...like a fan kicking on for the thermostat opening...but my fan runs full time key hot, as do my intercooler fans. Their sound didnt change...the sound of the engine did...then I watched the voltage gauge just drop....Like the alternator didnt exist anymore.



This sucks....Any ideas guys? I'm trying to save up some cash to grab one of these start n charge ones....but they arent cheap, by any means lol

 

[01cobravortech]

Alright.

So Im having a super weird issue. Its not a cobra, but it's a cobra swapped car. I mean almost full cobra swap. I couldnt use the Cobra fuel tank or the IRS....basically.

The stock alternator on the engine lasted over a year when I bought the engine, and was a stock alternator when I bought the engine/trans combo at 62k miles. It's at 72k now.

The stocker finally crapped out, so I bought a Optima oreilly's one because the motorcraft one was like 400 plus bucks lol Also the Optima has a lifetime warranty, which the motorcraft didnt.

Well, I put a new alternator back in may. And a brand new alternator three days ago. Because on a bench they passed with flying colors, but on the car, it constantly says the regulator has failed.

Some things to know. Battery has been relocated to the trunk. New engine grounds. The leads to the battery to a hot stud we made up front, and from the block to the battery ground, are all like, 2 gauge shielded, rubber wrapped 600v welding cable, so I dont think the cable is the issue.

Basically here is what has happened today.

Started the car, watched voltage sit at 13.8v. Let it sit for about 5 minutes. No issues. I know its a common battery sin to disconnect the battery while the car is running, but at this point I didnt care, so I did anyways, just to watch the alternator without the battery being part of the system. No change. 13.8. No chugging. no nothing. Reconnected the battery, slight dip because of a 12v load being applied as one would expect. No issues.

Another 5 minutes go by and I figure, shit...maybe running that new chassis to battery ground and cleaning the existing ones worked...finally....

Shut the hood...shut the trunk...sat in the seat to turn the key off and remove them....sat in the seat...heard the engine kinda chug once....like it would if say, a huge load was placed on it...like a fan kicking on for the thermostat opening...but my fan runs full time key hot, as do my intercooler fans. Their sound didnt change...the sound of the engine did...then I watched the voltage gauge just drop....Like the alternator didnt exist anymore.



This sucks....Any ideas guys? I'm trying to save up some cash to grab one of these start n charge ones....but they arent cheap, by any means lol

Trust me the Start N Charge is pretty competitive in price if you narrow your search to a remanufactured from Ford or go the other high end extreme which would be Mechman alternators and Nation's alternators.


Btw, Jaime from Start N Charge appears to have not posted on this site since 06-05-2015.

 

[blk02edge]

Start n charge is not making them anymore. You are stuck with crappy alts, mechman or Nations.

 

[Turbostang91]

Darn i was getting ready to order one tomorrow

 

[stanggirl14]

Nooooooooo! that sucks, I'm still running mine, almost 2 years on it

 

[stradt03]

Start n charge is not making them anymore. You are stuck with crappy alts, mechman or Nations.

Wow, did they give a reason?? I just got mine about 2 months ago, glad I ordered when I did.

 

[START 'N CHARGE]

Start n charge is not making them anymore. You are stuck with crappy alts, mechman or Nations.

I am still here.....I seem to have come down with a joint/nerve pain condition in my feet & knees that won't let me walk,let alone stand without crutches.
I'm trying to get it nailed down specifically before taking the drugs they want to prescribe.Some of the side affects include diminished immune system,TB,heart failure,stroke & cancer in the lymphnoids.:uh oh:
So at this point I'm not gone yet but can't work anytime soon.Hopefully back soon,I hate sitting around watching TV all day.:mj:

 

[Blown347]

Get well Jamie. I have had a start n charge for a few years now and its been great.

 

[Senkak]

Jamie,
Sorry to hear about your health issues.
Wishing you a speedy recovery!