Factory would beef up the bottom end NO MATTER the fi choice...whether it's a centri, turbos or a pd blower. They wouldnt go...we want to add some FI to s model, but dont want to mess with the bottom end, so a pd is out, lets put a centri on there, it's less stress on the bottom end...so we wouldnt have to slap forged internals in there. They have to make sure in stock form the car will make it through the warranty, so any fi will have a "more" built to ho along with the fi.
Paxton or Vmp Tvs
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Factory would beef up the bottom end NO MATTER the fi choice...whether it's a centri, turbos or a pd blower. They wouldnt go...we want to add some FI to s model, but dont want to mess with the bottom end, so a pd is out, lets put a centri on there, it's less stress on the bottom end...so we wouldnt have to slap forged internals in there. They have to make sure in stock form the car will make it through the warranty, so any fi will have a "more" built to ho along with the fi.
I agree but the fact is centris put less stress with there Tq curve
I never lugged my engine around before reading this thread, but after this thread I pay more attention to my vac/ boost reading and downshift if I need more than 20% throttle. Hell I bought a stick, guess I should use it more. lol
I had a thread here a while ago about downshifting when in cruse so it stays out of low rpm boost, same idea.
Well not really. 600whp on a turbo car would stress less than 600whp on a blown car. Blowers steal horsepower to run and turbos do not. So on a blown car you need to consider the parasitic losses when calculating the HP. Is not massive but its there. That's why turbo cars run the same HP on less boost.
Thats fine...but dont make it seem b/c its a pd blower is why they build the bottom end...they would do that with any fi application being added to a motor.
I've been well over 600 for 11k miles. No issues so far and I always downshift when I decide I'm going to rip on the car.
Why will it be junk?
and I dont care about looks under the hood...its never popped really much anyways.
I completely understand that, but I was more getting at the fact that we bracket race our 3800lb car, which is automatically a solid 1-2 tenths slower due to how deep we stage, and the car has gone 10.4's with very little effort, and that was on the brakes. I would think that being the case, low10-high9 TVS cars would be everywhere.
I would have a hard time believing that boost for boost, and mod for mod, that the Paxton would run-away from the TVS car on anything under 11-13 psi?
I completely agree on the higher power scale.
Beef, you said high "8" when I think you meant "9" when you mentioned Rebeccas car, just so you know.
My car is legitimately a low ten car on slicks and skinnies. I'm planning on proving that when I come home for RnR hopefully in October.
You guys know we're not saying we floor it at 1500rpms... right
You make it sound like PD guys who like the low end tq are out racing from 1000rpms-3000rpms and then shifting... lol
When I floored the paxton cars at 3500rpms, it was not even close to when I floor mine at 3500rpms... that is more the range I'm talking about.
You're argument that your fi system produces less stress because it produces less tq is kinda counterproductive when some people bought a s/c for the greater amount of tq in the midrange.
I purchased my s/c with FULL intentions on building the bottom end. I'm not looking for the s/c that will make my stock motor last the longest. Again, to each his own...
You make it sound like PD guys who like the low end tq are out racing from 1000rpms-3000rpms and then shifting... lol
When I floored the paxton cars at 3500rpms, it was not even close to when I floor mine at 3500rpms... that is more the range I'm talking about.
You're argument that your fi system produces less stress because it produces less tq is kinda counterproductive when some people bought a s/c for the greater amount of tq in the midrange.
I purchased my s/c with FULL intentions on building the bottom end. I'm not looking for the s/c that will make my stock motor last the longest. Again, to each his own...
Hey guys, for my own purpose....I am looking for a dyno graph (SAE) of a Paxton / Centri car with around 615rwhp, and an automatic transmission. I would like the range of rwhp to be 600-630. If you have one, can you please either post or PM it to me?
If it is a manual, I guess that will work too....but prefer auto.
Thanks!
If it is a manual, I guess that will work too....but prefer auto.
Thanks!
its my personal reason and apparently others on here. just like you thought it was a good idea to put those shitty red hood scoop stickers on your car... we obviously dont think alike.
That is going to be the biggest difference between PD and Centri guys, one wants low to mid end, the other wants top end.
i have an M6, but just the power range you are looking for:
Disregard the first 3 pulls, operator didn't want to rev it out :nonono:
Auto's downshift because the tranny is tuned to keep you in your powerband when you get on the throttle. I'm sure if the car came with a bigger powerband they would tune the tranny a little differently from factory. I'm sure I'm not telling you anything you don't already know, but that's kind of a misleading argument...
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good luck with that, no matter what blower you put on the car when you pass the 600HP mark you pushing the motor plain and simple. its comes down to how long it will last. every car is different.
exactly, when your not in the powerband, your "lugging" the engine
so, they shift and put you in the powerband so your not lugging it
Exactly, but you don't have the same powerband as what they tuned it for.... I believe the downshifting is more meant to keep you in the power for the performance aspect.
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I don't agree with that, even on an n/a engine, if the tranny never downshifted, you'd tear the motor apart quite a bit sooner
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