My point is that it’s not stock what put you to over 12k?
Okay I don’t know if my signature isn’t showing up anymore but this is what I have currently
Stock rods
Polished stock crank
DSS Gsx -21cc pistons .20 over (3.573 for .003 clearance)
Comp cam 274s
Steel retainers with behive springs
Ported heads
Leathel Performance full fuel system
3.4 whipple
26spline t56
Level 2 halfshafts hks springs Kenny brown matrix
I just finished my build. 4.6L 0.020" custom diamond pistons, 4V reliefs, hardcoat anodized with moly skirts, stock rods, new kellogg crank, all ARP 2000 hardware everywhere, Had my main and rod bearings calico coated, Cometic head gaskets, all Ford gaskets everywhere else, I cleaned and lapped the valves (already had upgraded exhaust valves from before), custom cams, PAC springs, retainers, Trick Flow adjustable crank gears, Cloyes adjustable intake cam gears, Ford Racing 4V Timing Kit, Changed over my coolant lines to AN fittings (was a few hundred here), did all my own powder coating, Scott rod panels and paint.
As mentioned before, I had the block machined and the short block assembled... was over 3k there. I assembled everything else, degreed the cams ect. Let's just say I have over 12k into the engine alone. That's with me doing all the work.
Add new clutch, flywheel ect onto your build, that's another 1k there. Not sure your fuel system, but plan another 1500-2k there if your just starting.
Everyone always under estimates what it cost to make big power reliably. I already had all the supporting mods, fuel system, big blower ect on my car.
Without E85 or torco mix, it will be very hard to reliably go above 700 and to make it last. Good luck and happy researching. Feel free to PM me if you need more info.
This is the kind of list I needed too. I plan on similar things. Can't forget the cooling stuff. Thank you for the info!I just finished my build. 4.6L 0.020" custom diamond pistons, 4V reliefs, hardcoat anodized with moly skirts, stock rods, new kellogg crank, all ARP 2000 hardware everywhere, Had my main and rod bearings calico coated, Cometic head gaskets, all Ford gaskets everywhere else, I cleaned and lapped the valves (already had upgraded exhaust valves from before), custom cams, PAC springs, retainers, Trick Flow adjustable crank gears, Cloyes adjustable intake cam gears, Ford Racing 4V Timing Kit, Changed over my coolant lines to AN fittings (was a few hundred here), did all my own powder coating, Scott rod panels and paint.
As mentioned before, I had the block machined and the short block assembled... was over 3k there. I assembled everything else, degreed the cams ect. Let's just say I have over 12k into the engine alone. That's with me doing all the work.
Add new clutch, flywheel ect onto your build, that's another 1k there. Not sure your fuel system, but plan another 1500-2k there if your just starting.
Everyone always under estimates what it cost to make big power reliably. I already had all the supporting mods, fuel system, big blower ect on my car.
Without E85 or torco mix, it will be very hard to reliably go above 700 and to make it last. Good luck and happy researching. Feel free to PM me if you need more info.
My post was directed for you to talk to who is going to be building the motor. They are the ones you should be talking with. There is no general one size fits all build.
Personal opinion
Stock crank - Will need work hopefully it won't need mallory
Molnar PwrAdder rods
Custom pistons from anyone (if you don't want to spec them talk to Apoc Performance or Gibtec)
.180 H13 tool steel wrist pins (Trend)
Stainless rings with a napier cut second ring
King bearings
ARP throughout
Decked heads
Valve job
Check for exhaust seat failure
Use stock head gaskets
Boundary billet oil pump gears
Check for metal primary tensioners if plastic/nylon replace otherwise keep metal (use spacer/grinding to prevent tensioner lock out Wonder Racing sells the spacers)
Flip/Space/Cobra Engineering secondary tensioner
Replace chains with OEM if stretch occured. Secondary only use OEM or upgrade to Accufab HD.
If you are going to use a two step replace timing arms with billet.
J2Fab intercooler upgrade
I'm sure there is more I'm missing. This will be over 4k.
My point is that it’s not stock what put you to over 12k?
I'd definitely stud the crank if you keep the 3.4. Also oil pump gears.
Did I miss the reason your tearing it apart in the first place?
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Yep that’s a keeper.
And this thing isn’t making all kinds of racket?
Look at the top of each valve stem and you’ll see the tops of two of those on each valve. You will only see the skinny edge.
It’s very rare that one would hold a spring on for long and if so, it’ll be all canted and bent.
Didn’t you get cams and springs done? Possible it fell down the oil drain back.
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