Official PNWSVT rebuild thread

[PNWSVT]

My point is that it’s not stock what put you to over 12k?

 

[StrayBullitt]

Be interesting to see what you find when you get it apart.

 

[01yellercobra]

Okay I don’t know if my signature isn’t showing up anymore but this is what I have currently

Stock rods
Polished stock crank
DSS Gsx -21cc pistons .20 over (3.573 for .003 clearance)
Comp cam 274s
Steel retainers with behive springs
Ported heads
Leathel Performance full fuel system
3.4 whipple
26spline t56
Level 2 halfshafts hks springs Kenny brown matrix

With that list the only things I would change would be the pistons and springs. Mostly because I'm not a fan of DSS and if you don't know what brand the springs are better safe than sorry.

 

[c6zhombre]

I just finished my build. 4.6L 0.020" custom diamond pistons, 4V reliefs, hardcoat anodized with moly skirts, stock rods, new kellogg crank, all ARP 2000 hardware everywhere, Had my main and rod bearings calico coated, Cometic head gaskets, all Ford gaskets everywhere else, I cleaned and lapped the valves (already had upgraded exhaust valves from before), custom cams, PAC springs, retainers, Trick Flow adjustable crank gears, Cloyes adjustable intake cam gears, Ford Racing 4V Timing Kit, Changed over my coolant lines to AN fittings (was a few hundred here), did all my own powder coating, Scott rod panels and paint.

As mentioned before, I had the block machined and the short block assembled... was over 3k there. I assembled everything else, degreed the cams ect. Let's just say I have over 12k into the engine alone. That's with me doing all the work.

Add new clutch, flywheel ect onto your build, that's another 1k there. Not sure your fuel system, but plan another 1500-2k there if your just starting.

Everyone always under estimates what it cost to make big power reliably. I already had all the supporting mods, fuel system, big blower ect on my car.

Without E85 or torco mix, it will be very hard to reliably go above 700 and to make it last. Good luck and happy researching. Feel free to PM me if you need more info.

Damn! Good luck with it, looking forward to the results.

But this is also a good reminder, especially buying a used terminator.....it doesn't matter if it's 100% stock or a major rebuild with or without documentation......get a compression test on the motor before you buy! Do not buy someone else's hurt motor. Too many sellers try to pass off an injured car as 100% functioning. It might be running...but it's hurt. No way a motor should let go right after buying a car, pre-purchase compression test is cheap insurance. If the seller balks at a compression test.....thats all you need to know, run away. Check it out with a fine tooth comb first....or you could be in for a na$$$ty surprise

 

[papajoewill]

I just finished my build. 4.6L 0.020" custom diamond pistons, 4V reliefs, hardcoat anodized with moly skirts, stock rods, new kellogg crank, all ARP 2000 hardware everywhere, Had my main and rod bearings calico coated, Cometic head gaskets, all Ford gaskets everywhere else, I cleaned and lapped the valves (already had upgraded exhaust valves from before), custom cams, PAC springs, retainers, Trick Flow adjustable crank gears, Cloyes adjustable intake cam gears, Ford Racing 4V Timing Kit, Changed over my coolant lines to AN fittings (was a few hundred here), did all my own powder coating, Scott rod panels and paint.

As mentioned before, I had the block machined and the short block assembled... was over 3k there. I assembled everything else, degreed the cams ect. Let's just say I have over 12k into the engine alone. That's with me doing all the work.

Add new clutch, flywheel ect onto your build, that's another 1k there. Not sure your fuel system, but plan another 1500-2k there if your just starting.

Everyone always under estimates what it cost to make big power reliably. I already had all the supporting mods, fuel system, big blower ect on my car.

Without E85 or torco mix, it will be very hard to reliably go above 700 and to make it last. Good luck and happy researching. Feel free to PM me if you need more info.

This is the kind of list I needed too. I plan on similar things. Can't forget the cooling stuff. Thank you for the info!

 

[Nightmare302]

My post was directed for you to talk to who is going to be building the motor. They are the ones you should be talking with. There is no general one size fits all build.

Personal opinion

Stock crank - Will need work hopefully it won't need mallory
Molnar PwrAdder rods
Custom pistons from anyone (if you don't want to spec them talk to Apoc Performance or Gibtec)
.180 H13 tool steel wrist pins (Trend)
Stainless rings with a napier cut second ring
King bearings
ARP throughout
Decked heads
Valve job
Check for exhaust seat failure
Use stock head gaskets
Boundary billet oil pump gears
Check for metal primary tensioners if plastic/nylon replace otherwise keep metal (use spacer/grinding to prevent tensioner lock out Wonder Racing sells the spacers)
Flip/Space/Cobra Engineering secondary tensioner
Replace chains with OEM if stretch occured. Secondary only use OEM or upgrade to Accufab HD.
If you are going to use a two step replace timing arms with billet.
J2Fab intercooler upgrade

I'm sure there is more I'm missing. This will be over 4k.

 

[roy_1031]

My post was directed for you to talk to who is going to be building the motor. They are the ones you should be talking with. There is no general one size fits all build.

Personal opinion

Stock crank - Will need work hopefully it won't need mallory
Molnar PwrAdder rods
Custom pistons from anyone (if you don't want to spec them talk to Apoc Performance or Gibtec)
.180 H13 tool steel wrist pins (Trend)
Stainless rings with a napier cut second ring
King bearings
ARP throughout
Decked heads
Valve job
Check for exhaust seat failure
Use stock head gaskets
Boundary billet oil pump gears
Check for metal primary tensioners if plastic/nylon replace otherwise keep metal (use spacer/grinding to prevent tensioner lock out Wonder Racing sells the spacers)
Flip/Space/Cobra Engineering secondary tensioner
Replace chains with OEM if stretch occured. Secondary only use OEM or upgrade to Accufab HD.
If you are going to use a two step replace timing arms with billet.
J2Fab intercooler upgrade

I'm sure there is more I'm missing. This will be over 4k.

Accufab HD secondary chains and tensioner kit are a grand alone.


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[03' White Snake]

My point is that it’s not stock what put you to over 12k?

My point is, is showing what it takes to make good power reliably. To make 750 -800+ reliably, it takes good parts and good fuel. Believe me, I thought originally it was going to be in the 5-6k range then cams... probably 7500 all said and done. Turned out to cost way more than that.

I'm getting tuned tomorrow so I'll let you know how she does. Nothing exotic about my build at all. It's a good baseline to compare against is all.

You will need to spin your 3.4 to 20+ psi for it to be in its efficiency zone. Anything less, will be a dog. That boost level is calling for better than pump....race gas, e85 or torco mix. I'd start there and decide what your goals really are. Or step down to a smaller blower.

 

[WHITESTRIPES]

I'd definitely stud the crank if you keep the 3.4. Also oil pump gears.
Did I miss the reason your tearing it apart in the first place?

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[roy_1031]

I'd definitely stud the crank if you keep the 3.4. Also oil pump gears.
Did I miss the reason your tearing it apart in the first place?

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03 cobra compression as low as Oprah’s Testosterone
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sh...as-Oprah’s-Testosterone.1164102/&share_type=t


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[PNWSVT]

Motors out of the car finally, so I can really tear it down today and see what’s what. I’ll let you guys know how it goes. I understand it’s not as cheap as i may have thought.

 

[PNWSVT]

yesterday got off to a slow start, before I began my disassemble I spent most of the time cleaning and organizing the shop and tools. I didn't want to come this far to lose a crucial piece etc. I did have time to take the valve covers off, oil pan and begin taking the timing cover off before i realized that I needed the tool to take the balancer off (i have been doing this all with limited tools mostly on my own, although I got some great help the night of pulling the engine). I did however, find this at the bottom of my oil pan. Any ideas?

 

[ShootyMCstabby]

I am pretty sure that's a keeper for the valve guides.

 

[PNWSVT]

Well damn! I googled it and sure enough there it is! Now how did I find it in my oil pan....:

 

[ShootyMCstabby]

maybe this will help yeah. https://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=Awr...1006519//RK=2/RS=g2y6dvY8uTBBfxkUbWZWmz6.MHc-

 

[MG0h3]

Yep that’s a keeper.

And this thing isn’t making all kinds of racket?

Look at the top of each valve stem and you’ll see the tops of two of those on each valve. You will only see the skinny edge.

It’s very rare that one would hold a spring on for long and if so, it’ll be all canted and bent.

Didn’t you get cams and springs done? Possible it fell down the oil drain back.


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[01yellercobra]

Yep that’s a keeper.

And this thing isn’t making all kinds of racket?

Look at the top of each valve stem and you’ll see the tops of two of those on each valve. You will only see the skinny edge.

It’s very rare that one would hold a spring on for long and if so, it’ll be all canted and bent.

Didn’t you get cams and springs done? Possible it fell down the oil drain back.


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If he did have the springs swapped maybe the shop drop it and left it. We were doing the springs on a buddies 2V and the one time I forgot to put a rag in the drain back holes we dropped one of the keepers. So the pan had to come off.

 

[PNWSVT]

Here’s the piston and cyl that had the low compression, you guys notice anything ?

 

[roy_1031]

Did it drop the valve and hit the piston? Was this thing making any noises before the tear down?


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[ShootyMCstabby]

Piston looks good, just the orientation dot can't see anything else.

That last pic of the cylinder wall looks a little grooved at the bottom or is that a angle of light. Kind of heard to tell in pic.

how is the head? how dose the combustion chamber look. It's softer metal then the piston and you should see detonation/ valve marks inside pocket, if any.