Official PNWSVT rebuild thread

[PNWSVT]

So it wasn’t noisy at all before disassemble and the heads are getting dissected today. The last cylinder pic had what looks like a groove but is really just the lighting and oil at the bottom of the cyl. I’ll try and get more detailed pics. Things I have seen so far

Bearings look good
Stock Manley rods
Arp hardwear on pistons but not mains

The crank looks to be shaved ? Not sure it’s been a while since I have been to the bottom of a 4.6

Also here’s my wheel, clutch, inputshaft, TOB and fork

 

[PNWSVT]

Engine is waiting to head to the machine shop for a detailed inspection. What I noticed is that almost all of the pistons have blowby and maybe that’s what’s caused the loss in compression.

 

[PNWSVT]

Currently shopping for PTFE fuel lines, ARP Head studs, and trying to figure out why my SNOW performance water meth kit was never working

 

[SVT_Troy]

Ditch the meth and run E-85.


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[roy_1031]

Ditch the meth and run E-85.


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We tried convincing him already.


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[PNWSVT]

Guys lol I CANT RUN E85 WHERE I LIVE. Now that that’s outta the way, I also have a pre-existing Snow Performance water meth kit. That being said it will remain in the vehicle. I understand why you guys and why many other people say to run E85 and it make sense, a lot of sense. But since it would take me over an hour and a half to get E85 I can’t do that.

There is plenty of supporting science behind the water meth combo for what I’m doing, so I’m going to continue to run it until E85 can be at more than two gas stations.

 

[roy_1031]

I just don’t see why you won’t relocate... haha jk


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[c6zhombre]

I just don’t see why you won’t relocate... haha jk


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Lol

PNWSVT, I realize you don't think you will ever run E85....but regardless, now is the time to set up the fuel system with E85 in mind. That way it's ready for when that station pops up around you. Or, you decide screw it and set up a 55 gallon drum at your house.

70 miles is nothing for a corn junky lol

 

[ccq8le]

guys I am Seattle too so in PNWSVT defense

E85 is just not avail...... like at all.... ANYWHERE

Reading some the threads I had just always thought I was an alien to the E85 and wondering if life is different in the corn growing mid west or something.....

Must be the hills and mountains here as to why there is no Market for it

Sounds bad ass to make more power at lower engine temps though. I told all the guys at work about the HP you guys make on it. They all looked at me like I was on all the green stuff that is legal here....

But no E85

 

[roy_1031]

You guys aren’t lying, it’s scarce in WA! There’s one out east in the tri cities, my old stomping grounds (Pasco)..
Here in SoCal e85 is pretty abundant. Towards LA (40 miles east of me) there’s another 30 stations.


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[PNWSVT]

Lol

PNWSVT, I realize you don't think you will ever run E85....but regardless, now is the time to set up the fuel system with E85 in mind. That way it's ready for when that station pops up around you. Or, you decide screw it and set up a 55 gallon drum at your house.

70 miles is nothing for a corn junky lol

As far as the fuel system, right now I have non FTPE lines that I will be replacing. My set up as is ..

FORE twin pump hat
-10AN line to Aeromotive Filter
From filter to billet y block
From Y block to front of fuel rails
From rear of fuel rails -6 AN to FPR
FPR (aeromotive a1000) return -6an

Will be upgrading to PTFE stainless braided but should I keep the -6 return and the -10 feed ? I know with the PTFE line and AN fittings I’ll be compatible with E85 in the future.

Will be making the blower swap soon. The guy is giving me his VMP with 2.9 pulley, and injectors (his are 60# mine are 62# so not sure there is much difference there) and $1,000 for my 3.4

 

[roy_1031]

As far as the fuel system, right now I have non FTPE lines that I will be replacing. My set up as is ..

FORE twin pump hat
-10AN line to Aeromotive Filter
From filter to billet y block
From Y block to front of fuel rails
From rear of fuel rails -6 AN to FPR
FPR (aeromotive a1000) return -6an

Will be upgrading to PTFE stainless braided but should I keep the -6 return and the -10 feed ? I know with the PTFE line and AN fittings I’ll be compatible with E85 in the future.

Will be making the blower swap soon. The guy is giving me his VMP with 2.9 pulley, and injectors (his are 60# mine are 62# so not sure there is much difference there) and $1,000 for my 3.4

You’re going to love the tvs. It’s going to a different car compared to the 3.4, in a good way. If for some miraculous reason an e85 station pops up near you and you make the switch. You’ll need more injector and some 465’s to just be done with it. What pumps do you have right now?


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[PNWSVT]

You’re going to love the tvs. It’s going to a different car compared to the 3.4, in a good way. If for some miraculous reason an e85 station pops up near you and you make the switch. You’ll need more injector and some 465’s to just be done with it. What pumps do you have right now?


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I have yet to pull the pump out of the housing so I really can’t say maybe from this pic you can tell

 

[roy_1031]

Only thing I can tell ya is it’s not a 465, it’s smaller. The 465’s have a bigger bottom end.


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[PNWSVT]

update-------------------------

The engine went to the machine shop yesterday, should have a detailed report as to what needs to happen or be fixed etc.

I purchased my fuel lines, fittings and wiring to upgrade my fuel system from FORE Innovations and will be delivered by next week. My fuel pumps are both SUPERCAR GT pumps.

I am replacing the lines and solenoid for my SNOW Performance water/meth kit.

will be ordering from Lethal Performance
ARP Main Studs
ARP 2000 Head Stud Kit
ARP Sidebolts
TOB and Retainer Sleeve
Comp Cams adjustable Gear Set
and possibly billet oil pump gears, I say possibly because I am not sure if mine are billet already. Here is a picture of the gears. Is there a way to tell?

Not much else to report on. The builder said the pistons look great, but there were signs of detonation and could possibly get by with rings. He was not happy that the previous builder shaved the end of the rods to balance them.

-----I have a new theory as to what happened to my car----
I think the previous owner tuned it on the water/meth kit. The reason I say that is most engines that run these water/meth kits are generally really clean (pistons cyl walls etc) due to the steam effect. But my pistons were caked with carbon. The water/meth lines running to the intake were bone dry and also brittle. It appeared that possibly the pump stopped working since there is no check valve and was improperly mounted in the trunk. Its possible this caused the engine to run like dog shit and become progressively worse.

Well anyways off to order more parts!

 

[4sdvenom]

Any updates on this. Curious what you found out on the tear down and where your new build is at and what specifics you went with.

Thanks
Ken

 

[onefastcar]

It looks like your pistons aren't stock . And don't buy your arp stuff from lethal there are other places that are a lot cheaper .these motor aren't cheap to rebuild I just rebuilt mine I have close to 13 k in the motor and fuel system. Once you have it all back together you should really invest in some sort of lean protection and knock protection as well to help save from having to do it again

 

[P49Y-CY]

Motors out of the car finally, so I can really tear it down today and see what’s what. I’ll let you guys know how it goes. I understand it’s not as cheap as i may have thought.

Did you take the motor out from the top or the bottom?

 

[PNWSVT]

Its been a few minutes since I checked in, I have been way to damn busy lately. So lets recap

Before tear down :
The engine was a heavily modified stock block 4.6L with aftermarket pistons .20 over, ported heads, steel spring retainers, comp stage 3 cams, stock oil system, lethal performance return fuel system (twin gt pump), 3.4L whipple with supporting cooling mods and such. The whippple had a 3.5 and there was a -4# lower and it was still at 21lbs of boost. Snow performance water meth kit, 26spline T56, upgraded IRS, level 2 halfshafts, centerforce stage 3 twin disc dyad clutch etc.

Rebuild:
*Engine block is still stock, but now hosts full ARP 2000 hardware where it counts (at my power level),
*heads will be refreshed (they are getting flow tested today), Canton street/strip pan with louvered windage tray,
*Boundary oil pump gears, timing chain and gears as well as tensioners are in great shape (including guides),
*new FORE fuel rails to accommodate the GEN 2 VMP blower ( after talking with basically everyone with a pulse, they recommended I get off the 3.4 system and go with a more street-able and low end torque happy (since my CR is so low) blower. I got lucky and found a guy who is in the middle of the same rebuild on his cobra, except he wants over 1200hp and wanted to swap blowers. So we did and he gave me $1,000 on top of it all)
*Now has the GEN2 VMP GT500 kit ( with the gigantic throttle body lol) I am really looking forward to running this system for a few reasons, but I am even happier about getting rid of the rats nest of vacuum hoses attached to the side of the whipple.
*I replaced all fuel lines with PTFE stainless -10 feed and a -6 return. I ordered that all through FORE as well as the connectors and FC2 Controller.
*re did the wiring and plumbing for the water/meth kit and went with a braided stainless for both aesthetics and reliability (the nylon became rock hard under the hood)
----I have a theory that one of the things that went wrong was that my water/meth kit was probably tuned to the vehicle, and then the meth kit stopped working and that might have also led to some of my issues. As the pistons were CAKED when they were pulled, and they should have been about 1000 times cleaner when running the water meth----
*HD TOB
*Billet TOB Retainer Sleeve

Right now im close to 3,600 into the rebuild not counting how much the rings will cost and the fact that I have a family connection for the machine shop really helped lower cost.

Any updates on this. Curious what you found out on the tear down and where your new build is at and what specifics you went with.

Thanks
Ken

The motor comes back from the machine shop on the 26th! to say I am excited is an understatement. Saying I am a little nervous is even more lol
As far as the engine, what was found was my rings had basically gone to shit and I was getting blowbye on cyl 6 and 7 more than the others, but there was still more on the others. As of this week, it looks like im going to be able to reuse my pistons (thank god) and just a new set of rings will fix it all.

It looks like your pistons aren't stock . And don't buy your arp stuff from lethal there are other places that are a lot cheaper .these motor aren't cheap to rebuild I just rebuilt mine I have close to 13 k in the motor and fuel system. Once you have it all back together you should really invest in some sort of lean protection and knock protection as well to help save from having to do it again

What do you suggest? I have a dual wideband and will be wiring in a fail safe for the water meth *** WHICH I WILL NOT TUNE THE CAR WITH*** it will be purely for supplemental IAT reduction and cyl cooling.

Did you take the motor out from the top or the bottom?

Alright I had no other choice other than pulling it from the top. Its not as hard and or scary as people make it seem. Its all just a wiggle here, a wiggle there, a few more drinks, a few choice words, some more over here, a couple "why the hell was this engineerd this way?" and even more "why dont I own a lift?". But honestly it was pretty easy, I didnt destroy anything, break anything, or scratch anything when pulling it.

 

[PNWSVT]

I am not looking forward to timing it. People keep telling me I should have taken pictures of how it was all set up, but it made no sense to me because its being completely torn down. I have found tons of literature on timing this bastard, and hopefully I get it right lol