Now, if you typically leave the line at 5500 or higher will a Fidanza flywheel shrink the launch window? Or will it only be noticeable on the street?
N/A 4v build
- Thread starter fs308
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Not a fan of UD pullies on a modular.
why?
I saw a neat article in an engine builders magazine about this. They built up a N/A 351 big bore 4V modular motor based on an aluminum GT block. Their attention to detail in the rotating assembly played a large part in making over 550 HP N/A on the dyno.
The biggest thing they did to the rotating assembly was shave down the counterweights on the crankshaft, which not only reduced rotating weight but significantly reduced oil windage losses. They also massaged the oil passages for the main bearings and polished the crank.
Lightweight internals certainly adds horsepower. The new Corvette ZR1 uses a titanium valvetrain. I've seen some people run hollowed out camshafts in their modular motors for reduced rotating weight. It all adds up.
I haven't had it on the dyno yet. I keep playing with little things here and there. I haven't found anyone running a carb with my particular setup yet, where we can talk and throw ideas out at one another.
The Kellogg crank is the stroker.
I am not going to go there and start a broughaha.
Also not a fan of cryo treating powdered metal oil pump gears. :shrug:
The earlier post on the lightening of the crank and careful, detailed assembly
is a great investment ( $$$ ) for power AND durability.
This is where MP John and Al Papitto are miles ahead of the rest.
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What Birdman says is very true, the more components you add to a system to the more chance there is for failure/damage. I'm not a big fan of meth on an n/a engine either.
I don't recommend a lighter dampener (crank pulley) for a mod motor that'll be spinning as high as you're gonna be spinning yours. A cast crank, lightweight I beam or billet rods, Diamond factory stock spec pistons, aluminum flywheel, aluminum driveshaft, lightweight wheels, spool, etc, anything you can do to lessen teh weight of the all the rotating parts will help. Some will add more hp than others but if you're looking for max power to the ground you have to look at the entire combination.
I have a cast GT crank with 8 bolt flywheel pattern in my motor. If memory serves, its ~8 lbs lighter than the stock forged Cobra crank. That's a lot of weight that the pistons and rods don't have to work to turn.
Bob
Bob
did you do anything else to the crank? such as knife edging or lightening the crank any other ways
I know of this guy near my house, has a shop an he had a 99 cobra with stock H/C/I and he ran mid to low 11s. I remember him telling me that it was al papito who had built the block and they used a Cast GT crank with 8 bolt pattern for less weight. He didnt tell me any other specs but still impressive times for stock H/C/I.
ive already got several of those covered. my rear end has a lightweight spool from strange, my 4.10s have been lightened, my axles are gun drilled and star flanged also have a chromoly rear end pinion. also running 1.25 fluid in the rear end
Nope, it was stock.
^^
Typically NO, they only have so many cycles. They fatigue and then need to be replaced. Fine for a race car, when it's being torn down routinely. For a driver you want steel.
BTW I had an opportunity to ride in Birdman's 5.4 car the other day and WOW. His car without a tune, 3.55's, a t-56,irs and only rolling to around 3500-4000rpm was an absolute animal. It made my mostly stock cobra feel downright pedestrian.
If your considering a n/a 4v his setup is extremely hard to beat.
lightweight I beams or billets rods are the way to go for high rpm street use.
What's the setup? Where's it at? Does he have any vids or anything posted anywhere?
It's a 5.4 with c-heads and a boss intake.
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/new-edge-cobras-51/371797-what-do-you-think-project-car.html
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Here's one................. (NA)
http://www.n2s1.net/scott/DH2/Videos/RedMustang(Al).wmv
http://www.n2s1.net/scott/DH2/Videos/RedMustang(Al).wmv
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