Haha the engine/trans was about 900lbs or so.. It's actually lighter than the gt500 (iron) swap that I was going to do.. It'll be a little nose heavy but really I'm not too worried about it..
My Twin Turbo Viper Powered Mustang BUILD.
- Thread starter N8dogg
- Start date
Haha the engine/trans was about 900lbs or so.. It's actually lighter than the gt500 (iron) swap that I was going to do.. It'll be a little nose heavy but really I'm not too worried about it..
Trim Lok http://www.trimlok.com/ Used it for my CAI too. Nice build N8.this cool rubber edge protector to keep the sharp edges covered. Came out great!
Thanks!
I originally was planning on taking out the motor today but I decided to knock out a few small things instead.
-Finished drivers downpipe
-Bent dipstick tube to fit around header
-Remade mount for clutch master cylinder rod
-Installed throttle cable/pedal extension and gas pedal
Those seem like a quick thing.... but they took 7 hours!!
I started with the downpipe. Remember the notch i cut out for the brake line clearance. Well I added onto the other side of the DP to account for the loss in tube diameter.
Next I took the stock dipstick and bent it closer to the engine block to keep it away from the header. I didn't have to do much bending but it fits great now.
I originally installed the clutch MC and rod while the dash was still in. I used a bolt to hold the rod to the pedal, well now that I have a much better view without the dash in place I decided to take a better approach to installing it. I cut a piece of 7/8" (just what I had) cold roll round stock and drilled and tapped it. I left a small notch sticking out on the other end of the tapped hole to go into the hole on the pedal so I could weld it from the back as well as the front. It came out a million times better than the bolt.
I then moved onto the gas pedal/throttle cable. Since I had to "message" the trans tunnel a little for the starter it impeded the gas pedal from going all the way down. I made some extensions out of a couple bolts and some stainless tubing. They ended up being about 3/4" too long so I cut them down at the end. But they work like a charm!
The throttle cable is a combination of the viper, mustang and a Lokar cable. I cut the ends off each cable and made my own custom cable.
Built a mounting tab for the firewall. I riveted it to the firewall and then the Lokar cable had something to mount it, plus it looks good.
All three pedals installed and working properly!! Finally.
That was yesterday. Now its time to go pull that motor!
-Finished drivers downpipe
-Bent dipstick tube to fit around header
-Remade mount for clutch master cylinder rod
-Installed throttle cable/pedal extension and gas pedal
Those seem like a quick thing.... but they took 7 hours!!
I started with the downpipe. Remember the notch i cut out for the brake line clearance. Well I added onto the other side of the DP to account for the loss in tube diameter.
Next I took the stock dipstick and bent it closer to the engine block to keep it away from the header. I didn't have to do much bending but it fits great now.
I originally installed the clutch MC and rod while the dash was still in. I used a bolt to hold the rod to the pedal, well now that I have a much better view without the dash in place I decided to take a better approach to installing it. I cut a piece of 7/8" (just what I had) cold roll round stock and drilled and tapped it. I left a small notch sticking out on the other end of the tapped hole to go into the hole on the pedal so I could weld it from the back as well as the front. It came out a million times better than the bolt.
I then moved onto the gas pedal/throttle cable. Since I had to "message" the trans tunnel a little for the starter it impeded the gas pedal from going all the way down. I made some extensions out of a couple bolts and some stainless tubing. They ended up being about 3/4" too long so I cut them down at the end. But they work like a charm!
The throttle cable is a combination of the viper, mustang and a Lokar cable. I cut the ends off each cable and made my own custom cable.
Built a mounting tab for the firewall. I riveted it to the firewall and then the Lokar cable had something to mount it, plus it looks good.
All three pedals installed and working properly!! Finally.
That was yesterday. Now its time to go pull that motor!
Last edited:
Just read through this thread in a few hours. I'll be following from here on out. You are da man!
I got another full day to work on the car so I was able to get a lot done!
Got the oil pan removed and fittings welded on.
While the silicone was drying I installed my UPR Extreme bumpsteer kit.. Its definitely extreme.. Almost touches the wheels
Removed the motor and the re installed suspension so i could roll it around
Put some of the parts back on it getting ready to do some touch up paint and the color sanding and buffing.
After the pan was done i gathered up all the turbo parts (minus the turbos and filters) and took a picture.. Crazy how much time and effort is sitting right there!!
Once the Silicone had dried enough I removed the motor with my little wooden crate/furniture dolly. It works like a charm with my removable radiator support!
I installed my new ball joints and bumpstear kit and put the suspension back on the car so i could move it around. I need to do some minor touch up painting and paint my new mirrors. Then Ill be color sanding and buffing soon! Cant wait.....
Got the oil pan removed and fittings welded on.
While the silicone was drying I installed my UPR Extreme bumpsteer kit.. Its definitely extreme.. Almost touches the wheels
Removed the motor and the re installed suspension so i could roll it around
Put some of the parts back on it getting ready to do some touch up paint and the color sanding and buffing.
After the pan was done i gathered up all the turbo parts (minus the turbos and filters) and took a picture.. Crazy how much time and effort is sitting right there!!
Once the Silicone had dried enough I removed the motor with my little wooden crate/furniture dolly. It works like a charm with my removable radiator support!
I installed my new ball joints and bumpstear kit and put the suspension back on the car so i could move it around. I need to do some minor touch up painting and paint my new mirrors. Then Ill be color sanding and buffing soon! Cant wait.....
Last edited:
Coming along nicely, can't wait to see it come to life.
Car is coming along awesome... has to feel good to start messing with paint, means you are getting closer to the end.
I probably missed it somewhere else or just spaced it, but do you plan on doing any kind of sheathing / heat wrap on these plug wires?
Continue to be amazed by this build. I barely have the motivation to mow the lawn on my weekends. Keep up the great work. :beer:
I need MORE......please
Very, Very nice!!!:rockon::rockon:
You should remove those valve covers and have them made custom with the " Powered By Ford" logo. When people ask about that V10 you can say that you bought it from Ford from their V10 test mule concept lol
You should remove those valve covers and have them made custom with the " Powered By Ford" logo. When people ask about that V10 you can say that you bought it from Ford from their V10 test mule concept lol
Yes I definitely plan on using some heat shields for the plug boots and wires, but in that picture the clips that hold them in place aren't attached to the bolts on the valve cover like they should be which will keep them further away from the down pipes.
Thanks for the comments!
I will film the very first attempt at starting it. I'm sure it'll go just like all the TV shows and start up and run perfectly too!! Haha ya....
I will film the very first attempt at starting it. I'm sure it'll go just like all the TV shows and start up and run perfectly too!! Haha ya....
Somehow, with this build, I have no doubt it's going to turn over on the first try. Have faith! :beer:
I will film the very first attempt at starting it. I'm sure it'll go just like all the TV shows and start up and run perfectly too!! Haha ya....
No reason to think it wont. Spark, fuel, air....that's all you need. I'm not expecting you to have issues given the quality of your work so far.
Bad crank sensors or other stupid crap could put it to a halt LOL.
True - guess I should say if it doesn't start, it won't be because OP screwed something up.
I love this thread...
Sid, you need to send this guy some SVTP Swag for his garage.
Sid, you need to send this guy some SVTP Swag for his garage.
As long as everything is accounted for mechanically and tested electrically there should be no real reason it doesn't barring any issue with the motor that was garunteed (for 60 days) by the seller.. I do still have quite a bit of work left so starting the motor is at the lower end of the list at this point..
Users who are viewing this thread
