I havent had issues with mine. I did own a low mile 2001 C5 that burned through 1 QT every 1000 miles. I owned it from 14k to 24k LEMON POS!
(MY!!!) Terminator OIL recommendations and capacities.
- Thread starter Jimmysidecarr
- Start date
Jimmy what do you recommend for turbo guys running E-85?
Mostly street driven. HPS 5w30
For Mostly strip cars that are primarily drag focused but also street driven there are some very real advantages to running a lighter 5w20, less thickening between rounds, more horsepower, more predictable and consistent times.
XPR 5w20 or HPS 5w20 price them both, if the XPR race oil fits into your race budget, that is our very best oil.
Jimmy - I purchased my 03 Cobra from the previous owner about 4 months ago. He was a diehard Mobil 1 guy, but I want to make the change to RP. I think (not sure) he was running 5w-30. I live in sunny so cal, so no real cold weather. Car has 28k smiles on it, and slightly modified (490ish rwhp).
What oil and filter to you recommend? Id like to ordered asap.
Thanks!!
What oil and filter to you recommend? Id like to ordered asap.
Thanks!!
See edited first post.
That is a significantly less than optimal and excessively thick viscosity.:nonono:
Thicker oil and higher oil pressure do not equal better protection.
Better protection is best achieved through superior chemistry which can produce significantly higher film strength allowing you to run even lighter than normal viscosities while still maintaining superior protection and performance. All in a low parasitic drag, high oil flow volume, efficient, better cooling viscosity.
Heat is removed from pistons by oil, heavy oils circulate less frequently and are less able to remove heat than less thick oils.
It's a sticky now.
It will cause ridiculously high oil pressure especially when it is cold.
See edited first post.
Just curious Jimmy. Are there any test sheets showing RP outperforming most everything else? Im running mobile1 5w30 right now, id switch if i seen some facts. Thanks
I am not a sales guy, I am an automotive technical support guy so I don't have a bunch of charts and graphs to share with you. You can however Do a google search and probably find that there are lots of third party tests that have shown great results. TV shows, magazines, etc.
I personally get phone and email feed back in the tech department that over time has become quite compelling.
Even our normal API -SN chemistry restricted oils are consistently giving a one to four percent increases in fuel economy. This includes switching from other big name synthetic oils. The performance gap is obviously going to be closer when comparing API licensed oils, because you can not formulate outside of the chemistry box.
When you step up to the RP performance oils that do not have to comply with any API chemistry restrictions, that is where the most significant differences between us and the other oil companies occur.
No other oil company has been able to duplicate, copy, or even come close to our proprietary Synerlec additive technology. So RP oils with Synerlec will have often double the film strength of other high quality synthetic oils.
Synerlec: Synerlec | Lubricant Additives | Royal Purple
Best can be very subjective, there are no agencies that test and determine what the best oil is. They typically determine minimum standards, meet and exceed type stuff. We are not for everyone, there are lots of very good oils out there that will get the job done and work just fine. We offer oils that are basically the Ferrari or Lamborghini of motor oils. If you want the best, that's what we are all about.
Good reply Jimmy, thanks... I seen a video on their site testing a couple oils and RP blew them away. Ill be switching over my next oil change.
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Hey Jimmy, I was wondering if the oil filters come packaged with a protective plastic film over the open area that leads to the internals like some oil filters do. I ordered one from autozone, it came in yesterday and when I opened it, the oil filter had nothing protecting the inside besides the box, which does not take much to open. Just wondering if maybe there was an error in packaging or something because the internals of the oil filter was pretty exposed. There might be some sand or something that got in there thatI'm just not seeing. Please advise.
most filter companies do not cover the filter inlet. I worked for ford for 6 years and none were covered. I work for toyota now and their filters are covered.
but most are not covered.
Good to go, thanks!
No, they don't come with a plastic cover.
When they are shipped between manufacture and distributors they are boxed in multiples and are inside of a cardboard case that is pretty tightly sealed.
I suppose if we shipped them over in a container ship from China or Japan a plastic cover might be a needed thing. However they are made right here in the USA by Champion Labs, so cleanliness and quality control have not as yet been an issue.
Jimmy, any oil recommendations after a new engine break in?? I have the break motor oil in the engine right now. Car made 522hp before new engine. No ther changes were made other than a remanufactured longblock.
To break in new rings on a new or reman Terminator engine:
For initial break in on a newly rebuilt engine with new rings we recommend Royal Purple Break-In-Oil (part #11487, quart bottle). RP break in oil is a highly fortified conventional 10W-30 oil that will allow optimal ring break in while providing excellent anti wear protection for even the highest lift flat tappet racing cams and the rest of the engine.(Terminator engines are rollers)
Automotive - Royal Purple
We recommend putting the equivalent of between 500 and 1,000 street miles on your newly built engine to allow for proper piston ring break in before switching to a Royal Purple synthetic oil. This can be ½ hour to an hour of loaded WOT dyno time or about ½ a day of competition.
After the engine is fully warmed to operating temps use multiple but brief 4 to 5 second bursts of wide open throttle followed by and in gear coast downs, as they are highly beneficial.(assuming the tires will hold the power)
After the rings are done(500-1,000 miles) see my initial post for what service oil to use. HPS is the best bang for the buck.
Been using RP since 2006, no complaints here. Used Mobil one a couple times but still had better results with the purple stuff. If anybody's on the fence about the switch, jump! You won't be dissapointed.
old thread BUTTT.. anyone have experience with rotella T6 synthetic.
I have run that in every F/I vehicle i have. 5/40 weight. full synthetic 20$ a gallon.
I have run that in every F/I vehicle i have. 5/40 weight. full synthetic 20$ a gallon.
Unless you are doing multiple hours of endurance road racing, you will be just giving away horsepower running a 40 weight oil in a Terminator. It simply is not needed and presents no significant advantages except noise suppression.
Your comments are surprising, only because I've heard of the opposite from use of high detergent engine oils intended for diesel / heavy equipment applications.
Of course I don't know the brand, the weight, or the engine/application, but I know several folks that work in the heavy equipment / commercial truck industry. Because they have cheap and easy access to the same or similar oil you reference many have tried to use this in their daily transport vehicles. From what they say (about their colleagues at work brave enough to try this) is that the engines will last a while but eventually they have major problems ending with engine failure. just anecdotal comments, but apparently not an isolated incidence/experience, fwiw. It might have been they tried to use an even thicker grade than you did.
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Just reading through this thread....I think I'll make the switch in the spring to RP 5w-20 and also change the transmission fluid...I am still on the stock fluid, but my car only has 16k miles on it.
Thanks Jimmy!!
Thanks Jimmy!!
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