(MY!!!) Terminator OIL recommendations and capacities.
- Thread starter Jimmysidecarr
- Start date
Royal Purple XPR 5W-30 (part #01021, quart bottle) or HPS 5W-30 (part #31530, quart bottle).
Drain old SC oil and fill to correct level.
Run the engine about 10 minutes and drain and dispose/recycle this oil.
Then refill to correct level and your done.
This should be sufficient to remove enough of the previous glycol based lube to prevent any conflict.
I currently run Mobile 1 5W20 with K&N oil filter and am thinking of swithing to RP... should I go with 5w20 or 5w30?
If you run the HPS or XPR it won't matter, you will have enough film strength to use a 20 weight oil in a modified engine with a high level of confidence.
If you use the normal Royal Purple SAE/API-SN street oil and you are using it in a mostly street use mildly modified or stock car it won't really matter either. See first post.
Royal Purple provides superior wear protection than other API-SN oils because we use only the best quality additives and base oils. Most oil companies are primarily focused on maximizing profits while providing oils that are good quality but not cutting edge.
I I use and have use Amsoil synthetic oils for the past 30 years. I use them in every Terminator, 4-Valve, 2-Valve and 3-Valve engine we build and send out to our customers. I use it in our cars, our Dodge 3500 Cummins shop truck and we use it in all compressors (some 4) Motorcycles, lawn mowers and every other item that has an engine. It works, it cost about the same as most quality synthetics and it was the very first synthetic on the markets, long before the want-a-be's and followers came along.
I have used it long enough that yes, I have seen the inside of the many engines it has protected. There is reduced wear, nicer looking bearings, and smooth bores. One area in particular is the reduced turbo bearing wear. The oil does not coke like many other fossil and synthetic oils will. The stability and resistance to extreme pressures make it a wonderful oil for anything mechanical, from stock gas feed engines, to powerful towing diesels engines. I would not hesitate to use it I anything, we have a new Boss 302 coming and yes, it will get Amsoil once it has broken end, about 500 miles or so. I have used it in all our race vehicles and it was spectacular at reducing service intervals and improving consistency and lowering our annual cost. I have to fill all our new engines with oil. While it is not very smart to use synthetics right from the start, we do use specialty oils that specialize in new engine start-up and break in. Once that is over, we switch immediately to Amsoil and advise all our customers to do the same. I do not work for Amsoil or get anything from them, I simply love their product and use it on a daily bases.
For the modular engine from 96 to 2004 there is nothing like a good 0W-20 or 5W-20 in Amsoil synthetic to keep that engine alive and healthy. The newer 4-Valve coyote & Road Runner engine's run a much different 5w-50 oil, so I would follow those factory guide lines but swap to Amsoil once your engine is well broken in.
I have used it long enough that yes, I have seen the inside of the many engines it has protected. There is reduced wear, nicer looking bearings, and smooth bores. One area in particular is the reduced turbo bearing wear. The oil does not coke like many other fossil and synthetic oils will. The stability and resistance to extreme pressures make it a wonderful oil for anything mechanical, from stock gas feed engines, to powerful towing diesels engines. I would not hesitate to use it I anything, we have a new Boss 302 coming and yes, it will get Amsoil once it has broken end, about 500 miles or so. I have used it in all our race vehicles and it was spectacular at reducing service intervals and improving consistency and lowering our annual cost. I have to fill all our new engines with oil. While it is not very smart to use synthetics right from the start, we do use specialty oils that specialize in new engine start-up and break in. Once that is over, we switch immediately to Amsoil and advise all our customers to do the same. I do not work for Amsoil or get anything from them, I simply love their product and use it on a daily bases.
For the modular engine from 96 to 2004 there is nothing like a good 0W-20 or 5W-20 in Amsoil synthetic to keep that engine alive and healthy. The newer 4-Valve coyote & Road Runner engine's run a much different 5w-50 oil, so I would follow those factory guide lines but swap to Amsoil once your engine is well broken in.
Redline Oil 6.5 qaurts of 5W 20 and K&N Oil Filter, and i warm up my motor until the fans turns on and then i drive!:beer:
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just purchased 7 quarts of the RP HPS 5w-30 from summit w/ the RP filter to go w/ it... i place too much trust in Jimmy and his knowledge to go w/ anything different. i'm sure that i won't be unhappy with the results!
Congratulations! If I did not get employee pricing, that is exactly what I would be running as well.:rockon::beer:
I just bought an 03 Cobra last month.
My question is that if I go synthetic how long can I run the oil? 3000 or 6000 miles?
My question is that if I go synthetic how long can I run the oil? 3000 or 6000 miles?
Synthetic oils are not all the same and manufacturers will often have different recommendations.
Usage type and modded power levels will play a role as well.
Higly modded E85 cars also should follow a shorter oil change interval too.
Which synthetic oil?
I would probably go Royal Purple or Castrol or Mobil1.
I can only make recommendations for Royal Purple.
Drain interval recommendations or Royal Purple SAE, HPS or XPR oils in a mostly street use scenario:
Gas Engine Oil Drain Intervals:
For engine oil in street driven passenger car/light truck gasoline engines that are mechanically sound, and stock or mildly modified, the interval is up to 12,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first. Please see below for general details on oil change intervals:
Depending on how many times time you have put a high-quality synthetic motor oil in your engine, we recommend you stay with the manufacturer's recommended interval for two oil and filter changes. This is generally 3,000 to 6,000 miles.
If you have done this with another high quality synthetic motor oil, or if you have another car that has very low mileage (new or almost new car), the oil change interval can immediately be extended to 2x to 3x the recommended factory interval up to a very safe extended interval of up to 12,000 miles or 1 year. We recommend changing the engine oil filter during the extended oil interval using a high-quality filter. If the filter manufacturer gives mileage guidance, feel free to use that. Otherwise, if running the oil to 12,000 miles, change the filter and top off the oil level at 4,000 miles and 8,000 miles. If you run the oil for up to 10,000 miles, a single filter change at 5,000 miles will be sufficient.
With the Royal Purple Extended Life Oil Filter you can go the full 12,000 miles with RP oil. (available at most Pep Boys stores and available through many online sellers) The RP oil filter part #20-820 is what we recommend for 2003-2004 SVT Mustang Cobra 4.6L engines.
If you put less than 6,000 miles a year on your vehicle, we recommend changing engine oil and filter once per year.
Whenever you change the non RP oil filter, but not the oil, be sure to top off the oil level to make up for oil lost with the filter change. Check your fluid level occasionally because all engines will use some oil.
The 'short' initial oil change interval is to ensure that your engine is relatively clean before going to the extended interval. Many conventional oils and lower quality 'synthetics' tend to form deposits inside engines, and in diesels, leave soot build-up. The natural detergent action of Royal Purple's superior quality base oils tend to clean these deposits and dirty up the oil quickly. After the first two normal length oil changes with Royal Purple, the bulk of the gunk should be gone.
Thank you!
Figure i'd give it a shot!
So what is it, 6 or 7 quarts? Just bought a case of RP HPS.
Ford says 6.
Dip stick assembly tolerances were all over the map, so it may or may not look full on the stick.
If you are doing open track/HPDE type events you might want to use 7.
Some guys split the difference and run 6.5.
On the subject of Oil, what are peoples experience as far as oil consumption with these high horsepower cars? Did a search on "Oil Consumption", but couldn't find much if any comments. I take that as a good sign, but also thought that these cars might tend to consume more by design?
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