I drastically dropped my fuel temps by over 100F

MethCobra

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I should add that my fuel pressure still fluctuated a little more than I liked even with the hard plastic boost/vacuum reference line I put in place of the rubber hose. I decided to put my front fuel line crossover back in and my fuel pressure evened right out with maybe half lb fluctation. I feel that I have the perfect setup now, thanks again Malcolm.
In order for stable fuel pressure with Deadhead setup you had to have front and rear crossovers on the rails? I had a question if one was to increase base fuel pressure to about 50psi or 55psi will it help fuel stability? Is that why Coyote swap tuners have fuel pressures at 55psi with ford racing control pack coyote swap fuel return setups. Because the rail is setup as a returnless setup with one one crossover on the rail? Any ideas? I currently have the Deadhead setup and I see fuel pressure fluctuating 1-3psi at idle set at 42 psi. Malcolm and I have been battling tune issues and was wondering why my fuel pump literally burned/overheated with the lethal budget return setup with the regulator at the rail and returning from there. Fuel pressure was steady and didn't fluctuate at the rails. But now I performed the Deadhead setup for cooler fuel and to save my new pumps.
143901a7dffa2eb55cacf79f7361c262.jpg


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MG0h3

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Im running stock rails/dead head/reg in the wheel well and my FP is rock steady at all times. Sender is an electric on the rail.

Fore Level 1E with twin 465s. Whatever regulator that kit comes with.
 

94slowbra1

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Im running stock rails/dead head/reg in the wheel well and my FP is rock steady at all times. Sender is an electric on the rail.

Fore Level 1E with twin 465s. Whatever regulator that kit comes with.
Exact set up I'm running and i have the same results as you. My pumps are staged through the fc3 controller
 

bigmoose

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In order for stable fuel pressure with Deadhead setup you had to have front and rear crossovers on the rails? I had a question if one was to increase base fuel pressure to about 50psi or 55psi will it help fuel stability? Is that why Coyote swap tuners have fuel pressures at 55psi with ford racing control pack coyote swap fuel return setups. Because the rail is setup as a returnless setup with one one crossover on the rail? Any ideas? I currently have the Deadhead setup and I see fuel pressure fluctuating 1-3psi at idle set at 42 psi.

I run stock rails with my deadhead setup and pressure is perfectly steady all the time. Not all regulators are the same as Malcolm has noted. I run a Fore f2i. I also used a good stiff fuel hose for my pressure reference in place of standard vacuum line.
 

cj428mach

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In order for stable fuel pressure with Deadhead setup you had to have front and rear crossovers on the rails? I had a question if one was to increase base fuel pressure to about 50psi or 55psi will it help fuel stability? Is that why Coyote swap tuners have fuel pressures at 55psi with ford racing control pack coyote swap fuel return setups. Because the rail is setup as a returnless setup with one one crossover on the rail? Any ideas? I currently have the Deadhead setup and I see fuel pressure fluctuating 1-3psi at idle set at 42 psi. Malcolm and I have been battling tune issues and was wondering why my fuel pump literally burned/overheated with the lethal budget return setup with the regulator at the rail and returning from there. Fuel pressure was steady and didn't fluctuate at the rails. But now I performed the Deadhead setup for cooler fuel and to save my new pumps.
143901a7dffa2eb55cacf79f7361c262.jpg


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If I had to guess the reason for increasing fuel pressure on coyotes is that by increasing pressure you drop injector duty cycle so it makes your injectors go farther.

I have a y feeding the back of my rails and cross over in the front on my setup. The only fluctuation I had was transitioning in and out of throttle, something that wasn't there before dead heading. My fuel pressure has always been rock solid during steady cruise and idle.

If Malcolm is tuning your car you're in good hands, he really knows his fuel systems and tuning well.

I've seen several posts on here over the years of lethal systems burning up electrical components. It seems like their wiring isn't always up to snuff compared to Fore.
 
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SVTdreamin04

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So I just got my car put back together about a month and a half ago. I am running an in tank Aeromotive Eliminator fuel pump with return and have been battling issues with heat soaked fuel on hot days. I plan to do a dead head return setup on my car this weekend.

My fuel will get so hot, it vapors off and the pump is starting to scream. I hope this is a fix for my problems !


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cj428mach

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So I just got my car put back together about a month and a half ago. I am running an in tank Aeromotive Eliminator fuel pump with return and have been battling issues with heat soaked fuel on hot days. I plan to do a dead head return setup on my car this weekend.

My fuel will get so hot, it vapors off and the pump is starting to scream. I hope this is a fix for my problems !


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If so be aware that normally a tune tweak is required when changing to dead head.
 

SnakeBoostE85

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I finally got around to installing a simple 4 pass heat exchanger on my fuel system... and so far its amazing!!! My fuel, rails, pressure regulator all stay basically at or slightly above the ambient temperature. I drove 75 miles heat soaked the shit out of it... destroyed a ricer and a motorcycle, came home and I could put my hand on the pressure regulator, rails, all the aluminum AN fittings were basically lukewarm to the touch while the blower and everything else on the motor would burn you.

Now granted its 45 degrees outside here right now... the *real* test will be next summer when its 90+. But even if were talking 40-50 degrees, we are still well under the 190+ fuel temps I had. I'm running the basic flow through return style, and it keeps the entire fuel system from heating up.

Does anyone see any issues with this? Am I missing something here? Why go dead head with all the dead head problems, mounting the regulator in the wheel well and all that plumbing vs. such a simple modification like this? Definitely interested in other opinions here.
 

SnakeBoostE85

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Its just a simple transmission or oil cooler... I mounted it right in front of the condenser... Its a flex-a-lite 4 pass cooler with -08 AN fittings on it. I'll post pics of the install... very simple though.
 

MG0h3

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Nice install on the HE. I only drive my car when it's cool out so this isn't a big issue to me.
I really like how clean the install is with the reg. in the fender. Looks as clean as stock. Course my car isn't a show car or anything and I'll do my first engine compartment cleaning ever this winter.
 

SnakeBoostE85

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Nice install on the HE. I only drive my car when it's cool out so this isn't a big issue to me.
I really like how clean the install is with the reg. in the fender. Looks as clean as stock. Course my car isn't a show car or anything and I'll do my first engine compartment cleaning ever this winter.

sure from an aesthetics perspective and advantage of it not sitting under the hood with the rest of all the hot parts its still a plus...

The one thing I noticed, I let the car sit in the garage for a bit after driving it and of course with the engine off no fuel is flowing so all the fuel system components under the hood heat up from sitting there with all the other hot stuff. However, I still noticed it was MUCH easier to start, by cycling the key and getting some fresh cool fuel from the tank. If I try to just start it right up, it stumbles slightly before firing but not nearly as bad as it did before because it gets much cooler fuel to the injectors very quickly.
 

MalcolmV8

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Does anyone see any issues with this? Am I missing something here? Why go dead head with all the dead head problems, mounting the regulator in the wheel well and all that plumbing vs. such a simple modification like this? Definitely interested in other opinions here.

Curious as to what all the dead head problems are? Dead head plumbing is actually more simple than flow through. You mention "all that plumbing" but yours has more.

BTW I've seen a few guys using coolers like that and all had very good results. It's a great way to go if keeping flow through. One concern I'd have is the fuel cooler right up front like that. In the event of an accident, even a minor fender bender that could mean burst fuel lines/cooler spraying fuel all over.
Perhaps putting the cooler inside the fender with a fan where it's less likely to get hit? Just an idea.
 

SVTdreamin04

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I finally got around to installing a simple 4 pass heat exchanger on my fuel system... and so far its amazing!!! My fuel, rails, pressure regulator all stay basically at or slightly above the ambient temperature. I drove 75 miles heat soaked the shit out of it... destroyed a ricer and a motorcycle, came home and I could put my hand on the pressure regulator, rails, all the aluminum AN fittings were basically lukewarm to the touch while the blower and everything else on the motor would burn you.

Now granted its 45 degrees outside here right now... the *real* test will be next summer when its 90+. But even if were talking 40-50 degrees, we are still well under the 190+ fuel temps I had. I'm running the basic flow through return style, and it keeps the entire fuel system from heating up.

Does anyone see any issues with this? Am I missing something here? Why go dead head with all the dead head problems, mounting the regulator in the wheel well and all that plumbing vs. such a simple modification like this? Definitely interested in other opinions here.

Yep, having heat soak issues ever since I put my car back together. I plan to go returnless, but would love to see your results with the heat exchanger on a hot day. What is the make and part number of the heat exchanger you are using?



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SnakeBoostE85

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Curious as to what all the dead head problems are? Dead head plumbing is actually more simple than flow through. You mention "all that plumbing" but yours has more.

BTW I've seen a few guys using coolers like that and all had very good results. It's a great way to go if keeping flow through. One concern I'd have is the fuel cooler right up front like that. In the event of an accident, even a minor fender bender that could mean burst fuel lines/cooler spraying fuel all over.
Perhaps putting the cooler inside the fender with a fan where it's less likely to get hit? Just an idea.

yep, I'll admit I am concerned about fuel sitting dead smack in front of the car. It certainly wouldn't meet automotive manufacturing standards.

A future *better* design might be something in the fender with a fan... definitely MUCH safer. I just wanted to see how effective this would be in general before I did anything else.

Your right... I do have more plumbing... I meant putting the regulator in the fender does complicate things. Seems like a lot of people had fuel pressure issues after going dead head based on the how the thread reads.
 

SnakeBoostE85

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Yep, having heat soak issues ever since I put my car back together. I plan to go returnless, but would love to see your results with the heat exchanger on a hot day. What is the make and part number of the heat exchanger you are using?

This is exactly what I bought:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-45208

I installed it in line with the return line after the pressure regulator. My return line is 6an, I decided to step up to an 8an unit though just so I would have more fuel volume running through the cooler, and then stepping back down to 6an
 

SnakeBoostE85

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One of the reasons I went down this road was because of my Powerstroke Diesel. Diesels (at least ford) all use return style fuel systems and I wondered if they had any method of cooling the fuel, sure enough... they do. The fuel cooler is part of the secondary cooling system on the truck. I'm not sure how it exactly it works... Is the fuel running through something that is being cooled by the flowing coolant (like an intercooler)? Or are they flowing fuel through a heat exchanger?

Based on this... It sort of lends itself to all return style fuel systems having some sort of method to cool the fuel, otherwise as Malcom said earlier in this thread your engine bay is just going to act like a big water heater, constantly heating your fuel as it flows through over and over again until it reaches the ambient temperature of the engine bay and all the components surrounding the fuel system.
 

MalcolmV8

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I installed it in line with the return line after the pressure regulator. My return line is 6an, I decided to step up to an 8an unit though just so I would have more fuel volume running through the cooler, and then stepping back down to 6an

If I try this I would likely have installed it in the supply line before the regulator. That way the coolest fuel temps exiting the cooler would go straight to the rails. However the more I thought about it you way is much better.

Having the cooler in the supply will cool the fuel to the motor but the fuel tank will still heat up and be a huge reservoir of hot fuel which is exactly what we are trying to not have to save the fuel pumps.
Where as installing the cooler in the return line means it dissipates the heat it just picked up from the motor before returning to the tank. I like that much better.

Another option is right at the rear by the tank. I've seen people who do auto transmission swaps install the cooler under the fuel tank with a fan. You could even install the fuel cooler there with a fan. It does become somewhat dangerous again because if you bottomed out somehow and smashed it that's fuel leaking. Probably safer than in the front bumper though.
 

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