bump...anyone running a similar setup?
I drastically dropped my fuel temps by over 100F
- Thread starter MalcolmV8
- Start date
Ill be running the same. Wont have any temp comparison results though as Im doing the initial return install like this.
Here is how I mounted my FPR. I picked up a length of the metal strap with holes in it from Home Depot. I expected to bend it and do a mount like Malcolm did but as luck would have it, all I had to do was cut and open up one of the holes an 1/8". Picked up a pack of M6 bolts and nuts at Autozone.
Here is how I mounted my FPR. I picked up a length of the metal strap with holes in it from Home Depot. I expected to bend it and do a mount like Malcolm did but as luck would have it, all I had to do was cut and open up one of the holes an 1/8". Picked up a pack of M6 bolts and nuts at Autozone.
Mine is in the same place. This is in front of the wheel liner by probably half a foot. No rubbing issues whatsoever.
No issues, if a tire is rubbing there you have other issues.
There are other mounting solutions, however I am not sure how much mine will heat up with the motor running. Anything has to be better than it mounted on the fuel rail. Just running my dual walbro 465 pumps (engine off) I noticed the fuel filter does get pretty warm to the touch. Any thoughts on maybe a hobbs switch or does MalcomV8 still sell his fuel switch? Im thinking just one pump is necessary till mid-high boost kicks in. Hate to burn up a pump unnecessarily having both run full time. Didn't see anything on his webpage where one is for sale?!
Last edited:
A hobbs switch will do it. After I sold out the first batch I haven't made any more of the fuel controllers. It's just not cost effective on such a small scale.
I'm constantly experimenting with various things and recently switched back to a flow through design when the fuel goes through the rails to my regulator and back to the tank. I'm testing differences in start up, mostly warm but also cold starts and also low load drivability with my cammed setup that's very sensitive to any fluctuations in fuel pressure and A/F.
All I can say so far is good grief my fuel appears to be on fire in this config again. My fuel filter in short time will be so scolding hot and it's a full tank of gas. I really need to grab a fuel cooler of sorts and plumb in line while running this setup. I'm concerned with burning up fuel pumps.
Possibly something simple like this inline. I wish they had it in -8 of course so I could avoid all the conversions and adapters.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-4136/overview/
Thanks for the input, a hobbs switch it is... Yes, I have noticed from doing a ton of research that you have switched your setup multiple times. And trust me its most appreciated, which is why I try to give input on my setup when I can so others can learn, follow suit, or not to do something. Hey that cooler will work for me though! #8 feed, #6 return (limited to #6 return by my regulator, would have really liked #8).
I *really* need change my configuration also to this dead head setup, my main concern is what re-tuning would be required. If the MAF is calibrated, what tuning would need to be done? Did you have to adjust anything else? The car is perfectly tuned right now using the pass thru setup.
Malcom - are you still running the dead heads or did you decide to go back to the flow thru design?
I'm also considering just keeping the flow thru setup and plumbing in a fluid cooler like the one you mentioned.
Malcom - are you still running the dead heads or did you decide to go back to the flow thru design?
I'm also considering just keeping the flow thru setup and plumbing in a fluid cooler like the one you mentioned.
Last edited:
when I went from dead head to flow through (tuner wasnt happy with what fueling was doing) it made enough difference he ended up re-scaling the maf again.
I feel like Im in the same boat with the OP, my setup appears to be very finicky about fueling hence the flow through setup but I hate how hot everything is getting, not happy about that at all
damn it... yeah I don't want get into finicky fuel pressure issues.
SO... others have suggested the inline cooler. Anyone tried one yet? I have no idea how I would even mount one without interfering with my radiator, heat exchanger etc... Those flex-a-lite units look reasonable... Just wondering how big and how many passes you need to go, to get reasonable results. Would you need one with a fan? - more space required :-(
SO... others have suggested the inline cooler. Anyone tried one yet? I have no idea how I would even mount one without interfering with my radiator, heat exchanger etc... Those flex-a-lite units look reasonable... Just wondering how big and how many passes you need to go, to get reasonable results. Would you need one with a fan? - more space required :-(
Due to all the headaches you just mentioned with trying to fit a fuel cooler I never did bother with it.
When going back and forth between flow through and dead head there was minimal fueling adjustments needed to my MAF curve. Nothing drastic. A simple revision or two from your tuner should have it.
When going back and forth between flow through and dead head there was minimal fueling adjustments needed to my MAF curve. Nothing drastic. A simple revision or two from your tuner should have it.
ok yeah if its just some tweaks to the MAF curve I can do that on the street.
More importantly though, what direction have you decided to go? Is your latest dead head configuration working or did you decide to go back to flow through? I've got all the same stuff you do... Fore rails and regulator, I would just need to remount the regulator and redo the plumbing.
More importantly though, what direction have you decided to go? Is your latest dead head configuration working or did you decide to go back to flow through? I've got all the same stuff you do... Fore rails and regulator, I would just need to remount the regulator and redo the plumbing.
Great info, thanks for making this thread. I am about to go return style and like the deadhead idea. My dilemma is that I have a turbo plumbed where OP ran his FPR(old HP Performance kit). Also. do you have to dead head each rail or can I run a crossover and just deadhead the end point?
You can run a single feed into one rail, cross over to the other rail and then dead head. I don't know the limits of that setup but I've done over 1000 whp on E85 and not seen any signs of fueling issues to any cylinders in long term usage and reading plugs.
How are you guys measuring fuel temps or how do you know there is an issue aside from touching the filter and it being hot? Obviously if you are vapor locking then that would be a problem.
By going to a deadhead setup versus a convention flow through style, the only heat you are "taking out" of the fuel system is when the fuel passes through the fuel rails, since everything else would be the same between the two systems. I'm really struggling to see how the rails can heat up the fuel that quickly.
In the example of 465 pumps (that seems to be the most common pump here), a pair of them flow just over 4GPM. If you have roughly 10 gallons of fuel in the tank, the pumps are recycling the entire tank every 2.5 minutes. That is moving fuel pretty quick....i.e. it's not sitting in the rails very long to get a chance to heat up.
I'm not questioning anyones real world experience/findings, just trying to get a better understanding.
--Joe
By going to a deadhead setup versus a convention flow through style, the only heat you are "taking out" of the fuel system is when the fuel passes through the fuel rails, since everything else would be the same between the two systems. I'm really struggling to see how the rails can heat up the fuel that quickly.
In the example of 465 pumps (that seems to be the most common pump here), a pair of them flow just over 4GPM. If you have roughly 10 gallons of fuel in the tank, the pumps are recycling the entire tank every 2.5 minutes. That is moving fuel pretty quick....i.e. it's not sitting in the rails very long to get a chance to heat up.
I'm not questioning anyones real world experience/findings, just trying to get a better understanding.
--Joe
Joe, just responded to your email.
I have not analyzed flow rates and how long it takes to heat up in the rails etc. I can however tell you real world testing shows that with a flow through design the fuel will heat up to over 200 F. The lower your gas tank level the worse the problem gets. Grab your fuel filter (mine's located under passenger's door) and it'll burn the crap out of your hand. Also I noticed fuel vapor pushing past the cap when it's that hot.
My real concern was with the fuel pumps failing from the heat. Fore confirms this is a very real problem they deal with from heat.
I've had one local guy, a GT500, burn up some 465s with flow through design. His fuel got so hot repeatedly over and over he melted two 465 pumps.
Switch to dead head and you'll see the temps drop drastically. You also need to move the regulator into the fender well. Just the regulator alone in the engine bay will heat the fuel a fair amount. I've tested this. My regulator wasn't even bolted to the engine. Just in the bay absorbing all the radiant heat from the motor.
I have not analyzed flow rates and how long it takes to heat up in the rails etc. I can however tell you real world testing shows that with a flow through design the fuel will heat up to over 200 F. The lower your gas tank level the worse the problem gets. Grab your fuel filter (mine's located under passenger's door) and it'll burn the crap out of your hand. Also I noticed fuel vapor pushing past the cap when it's that hot.
My real concern was with the fuel pumps failing from the heat. Fore confirms this is a very real problem they deal with from heat.
I've had one local guy, a GT500, burn up some 465s with flow through design. His fuel got so hot repeatedly over and over he melted two 465 pumps.
Switch to dead head and you'll see the temps drop drastically. You also need to move the regulator into the fender well. Just the regulator alone in the engine bay will heat the fuel a fair amount. I've tested this. My regulator wasn't even bolted to the engine. Just in the bay absorbing all the radiant heat from the motor.
That's good news! I do have the MMR fuel rails, so its not like I am trying to use stock rails with no fuel capacity. But if I didn't read this thread I would have had the same issues and would have been clueless( more so that normal anyway).
Users who are viewing this thread
