yaaaa I dont see that working with my big procharger unit upfront and stock crash beam
I drastically dropped my fuel temps by over 100F
- Thread starter MalcolmV8
- Start date
I think if we know a rough BTU rating for a cooler you can just find a unit thats size fits the dimensions you have for room.
I really don't remember BTU ratings. It shouldn't take much of a cooler. I've seen all kinds installed including the square heater core looking ones like you posted with fans on them in wheel wells etc. You have to keep in mind safety in a wreck so think about that when placing it. I went behind the crash bar which is much like the gas tank in the rear behind the crash bar. It still makes me nervous and I've considered maybe swapping to a cooler in the rear by the rearend.
I don't see a need for a killer chiller style cooler using the A/C. Seems over the top.
Are you still dead head then?
Oh the AC cooled unit is way over the top and the price shows it. I just found it and its honestly a cool idea.
The cooler goes on the return line side correct? I have my return line port up high on the top of the passenger side tank hump(was trying to keep the return location away from the sump pickup point). I don't think I have any spare real estate in the rear by the tank to fit a cooler, but I will have a look this weekend. I may end up having to stuff it up front either in front of the rad or condenser or heat exchanger.
I run 3 GSL392 walbros, 2 keyed on full time and the 3rd on a 7-9psi electric boost switch. Not huge pumps and I haven't had a fuel system issues since I installed the setup back in 2007-2008 with my 3.4 Whipple. Pumps due make more noise after a 1 hour or so drive in traffic or down the highway so I am sure the system is picking up heat.
No flow through with a cooler.
Yes that way it cools the fuel before heading back to the tank.
EDIT: To clarify the cooler is on a pressure line. The supply from the tank runs through the rails, through the cooler, then to the regulator.
I was skeptical about installing it directly in the return line from the regulator in case any flow restriction affected the functionality of the regulator.
I ran an in line cooler/heat sink from Barry grant. Simple install and very effective. Mounted it in the return line under the pass seat, or somewhere close to there. It mounts up with AN fittings and was solid as a rock. Solved my hot fuel issues. I dont see the need for anything fancier
Very nice. Thank for reporting that. I was concerned one of those heat sink bricks under the car wouldn't dissipate enough heat but clearly it does.
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This is more of what I was thinking of
Any pictures
i dont have any pics. this was on a fox with a 331 with ysi set up. made right under 800 to the wheels. when i first got it together i couldnt go mare than 30 mins without the car shutting down due to the fuel overheating. i looked for the most simple set up. these barry grant heat sinks were highly spoken of so i figured for the $$$ it was the way to go. cut the return line, add a couple of fittings and put it in. i did have to drill through the floor to install the mounting bolts, you would never know though. tucked it right by the subframe connector with enough room to dissipate the heat. then all was good. easy to mount and retro fit in, cheap, effective and no parts to fail.
Just thinking out loud on the dead head setup. But with larger FORE/DIVISION X rails how long does it take to remove fuel from them via the injectors? I am wondering just how warm the fuel is going to get sitting in the rails prior to being injected into the motor.
The warm circulation issue is cured up but I am just interested how hot the fuel is still getting prior to going into the motor. It must still be warming up a fair bit as fuel is more or less stagnant at the rails in a dead head.
The warm circulation issue is cured up but I am just interested how hot the fuel is still getting prior to going into the motor. It must still be warming up a fair bit as fuel is more or less stagnant at the rails in a dead head.
Was just going to post something like this.
But when the rail is 180 degrees it doesn't take long for the aluminum rails to heat up the fuel significantly.
The same heat that was putting 100+ degree fuel in your tank is now trapped in the rails prior to being injected into the manifold.
Maybe so but in several years of running this setup I had no issues. How much heat was actually getting into the fuel I couldn't tell you. What I can tell you is in terms of the car running, data logs and tuning it nothing different was noticed.
The one big issue I had, as mentioned a few posts earlier, when the car sat for about 15 minutes fully warmed up and heat soaked the rails would heat soak and it would start hard. Often requiring a 2nd swing of the key, sometimes 3rd but then it would clear right up and run great.
It seemed like a small price to pay for keeping the fuel temps down and my fuel pumps alive however over time I got tired of those random warm hard starts and switched to a flow through design with an inline fuel cooler. This seems to be the best of both worlds and has no downsides other than having to find place to fit the cooler and some added cost.
Great thread, going to be installing a fuel system very shortly.
Amazing thread actually. This thread helped me solve all my problems.
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