I drastically dropped my fuel temps by over 100F

[SOVACobra03]

Fore makes a vacuum/boost tree for these exact lines. In the event i have to pull my blower one day I'm going to do all hard lines. Seems like it would certianly be an improvement on signal

 

[MalcolmV8]

The bad weather moved in so my car will probably be sitting for a while so I won't get test data, but I thought I'd post my new boost/vacuum reference line I put on my car.

As mentioned earlier in this thread I was running 5'+ of 1/4" fuel hose as my boost/vacuum hose and seeing some pressure spikes. I wanted to do my best to do what I felt would give the best most consistent signal to the regulator so I decided to try some DOT Air line. For those not familiar with the stuff its commonly used on big trucks as they have air compressors on them that run tons of things. The stuff is cheap, durable and just plugs together.

I stopped by my local carquest and picked up 8' of 1/8" hose.
http://www.truckshop.com/product.php?productid=16612&cat=319&page=1

I then got one of these to go into the regulator
http://www.truckshop.com/product.php?productid=16670&cat=319&page=6

and was out the door for $8 total. The fitting threads into the regulator port and the hose just plugs in. Once its in it won't come out unless you push down on the little collar to unlock it and should handle 120psi. As for the connection to the vacuum harness I just used a rubber boot I had and forced it onto my Y connection for the FRPS, then stuck the DOT airline in and ziptied it.

I don't like to cut up my factory stuff but if you wanted a fail proof setup you could probably get an compression coupler to connect this to the stock line and it would never come apart. Also the 1/8" isn't an exact match to the stock redline as thats probably metric in size but its darn close.
If the weather improves I'll try to do some testing, but I know this has to give a quicker more consistent signal to the FPR.

That looks just like the stuff I use for my methanol injection. I can't tell exactly from the pics but if it is the inside diameter is much larger than the boost/vacuum hose I posted a link to.

 

[cj428mach]

That looks just like the stuff I use for my methanol injection. I can't tell exactly from the pics but if it is the inside diameter is much larger than the boost/vacuum hose I posted a link to.

Its basically the same as the red plastic tubing that Ford used in the OEM vacuum hose harness. Its made of plastic, very tough, and won't collapse or expand. It also was $8 out the door fittings included.

 

[Tractionless1]

Not sure what mine were before but after at the fuel filter on the frame rail under the passenger side door they're 102* when heat soaked! Before I couldn't grab the fuel filter with an oven mitt. I'm sure my fuel pumps are loving it and so am I knowing they're being kept much cooler!!

As others did dead headed the rails (oe) and moved the regulator to the passenger side wheel well area. WELL worth the extra work. Thakns for the info. on this! BTW fuel rails are 154* lt. and 131* rt. heat soaked.

 

[cj428mach]

I should add that my fuel pressure still fluctuated a little more than I liked even with the hard plastic boost/vacuum reference line I put in place of the rubber hose. I decided to put my front fuel line crossover back in and my fuel pressure evened right out with maybe half lb fluctation. I feel that I have the perfect setup now, thanks again Malcolm.

 

[MalcolmV8]

Cheers guys :beer: :beer: glad it's helping others too.

 

[laruei]

PERFECT timing finding this thread as I am plubming my new rails. Ill be moving my regulator (shame its so nice looking just to be hidden) to the drivers fender as thats where my return is.

Thanks Malcom! Awesome work!

 

[MTBSully]

I would need a new regulator to run a dead head setup correct? Mine is below:

http://www.lethalperformance.com/sh...sionx-2-port-efi-fuel-pressure-regulator.html

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

I should add that my fuel pressure still fluctuated a little more than I liked even with the hard plastic boost/vacuum reference line I put in place of the rubber hose. I decided to put my front fuel line crossover back in and my fuel pressure evened right out with maybe half lb fluctation. I feel that I have the perfect setup now, thanks again Malcolm.

I was looking through this thread again, can you tell us what your final layout is here just to be sure Im understanding correctly. I still havent done anything with mysetup, been working on other things and this isnt really a problem at the moment so its pretty far down the list

 

[Tractionless1]

I should add that my fuel pressure still fluctuated a little more than I liked even with the hard plastic boost/vacuum reference line I put in place of the rubber hose. I decided to put my front fuel line crossover back in and my fuel pressure evened right out with maybe half lb fluctation. I feel that I have the perfect setup now, thanks again Malcolm.

Are you running 2 rail cross overs then, front and back?

PERFECT timing finding this thread as I am plubming my new rails. Ill be moving my regulator (shame its so nice looking just to be hidden) to the drivers fender as thats where my return is.

Thanks Malcom! Awesome work!

You'll definitely not want a CF driveshaft then!

 

[laruei]

haha you're probably right

 

[cj428mach]

I was looking through this thread again, can you tell us what your final layout is here just to be sure Im understanding correctly. I still havent done anything with mysetup, been working on other things and this isnt really a problem at the moment so its pretty far down the list

I'll see if I took some pictures of my setup in the fenderwell when it was apart, but I'll see if I can explain it.

My kit started life as a Fore level 1 before upgrading it, so the regulator I have only has 3 ports on it, 1 for fuel in, 1 for fuel out, and 1 return port. I mounted the regulator in the front bumper like Malcolm did, and luck would have it you can read the gauge from the brake cooling hole in the bumper.:coolman: Anyways I have a single 8an feed line coming out of the regulator and into a Fore Y block in the fender well. From there it splits into 2, 8an lines and one goes into the back of each Fore rail.

Originally I ran this setup with the front of each rail capped basically resembling the OE setup and I'd have large pressure fluctuations. I then added the plastic boost reference line instead of the rubber line and it cut a few lbs off the fluctuation but it was never as good as my previous non dead head return setup. I decided to try removing the caps and putting a front crossover back in and my pressure fluctuations dropped to under a 1lb. I assume its because now the extra pressure can relieve itself to the pass. side if need be.

At first I was regretting this mod as I had a few bugs that kept it from living up to the non dead head return setup, but I'm now 100% happy with it.

 

[Tractionless1]

I'll see if I took some pictures of my setup in the fenderwell when it was apart, but I'll see if I can explain it.

My kit started life as a Fore level 1 before upgrading it, so the regulator I have only has 3 ports on it, 1 for fuel in, 1 for fuel out, and 1 return port. I mounted the regulator in the front bumper like Malcolm did, and luck would have it you can read the gauge from the brake cooling hole in the bumper.:coolman: Anyways I have a single 8an feed line coming out of the regulator and into a Fore Y block in the fender well. From there it splits into 2, 8an lines and one goes into the back of each Fore rail.

Originally I ran this setup with the front of each rail capped basically resembling the OE setup and I'd have large pressure fluctuations. I then added the plastic boost reference line instead of the rubber line and it cut a few lbs off the fluctuation but it was never as good as my previous non dead head return setup. I decided to try removing the caps and putting a front crossover back in and my pressure fluctuations dropped to under a 1lb. I assume its because now the extra pressure can relieve itself to the pass. side if need be.

At first I was regretting this mod as I had a few bugs that kept it from living up to the non dead head return setup, but I'm now 100% happy with it.

I wonder what I'll see with the OE rails when it's finally tuned and I can actually boost on it. Hopefully the same as your aftermarket x'd over rails.

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

thank you for the update, I understand exactly what you're doing.

I have the Lethal 1000hp kit with the big ass aeromotive regulator. Originally it was a dead head with a line from the regulator to a Y block and feeding the front of each rail with the rear of the rail blocked off and I was having inconsistent pressure issues like you described. We ended up going regulator to rail to crossover to the other rail and returning to the regulator which stabilized fuel pressure. I intend to buy a half decent temp gun and Im gonna take some measurements at the regulator and filter. I cannot move my regulator without buying a bunch of feed and return lines. I'll decide how to progress from there

If Im not happy with the current setup I will probably try feeding each rail separately and having a return out of each rail and back into the regulator and check temps/pressure swings again.

If still not up to snuff then I may try going back to the dead head but with a crossover.

again this is way on down the line for me, I want to actually drive and enjoy my car for a bit...I hope youve stumbled onto something with using the crossover even in a dead head

 

[JeronimoJC]

Another great thread Malcom! If there was a follow feature I'd be following you.

I am switching to a return system. I had intended going with a dead head system, but I got dissuaded by a few naysayers and I switched gears. No biggie though, I can easily switch to a deadhead system at this point, but I sort of want to try this. The setup I am working on is a bit different than the norm. I kept the stock fuel rails and put a wye behind the intake. As you can see in the schematic below, I am counting on the driver's side rail not sending any fuel to the return line and the excess fuel traveling towards the passenger side fuel rail and exiting via the old fuel inlet. If this works, there is only one section of fuel rail where the fuel gets heated and returned. My feed line is -8 AN (1/2") and the rails are (5/16") so I don't see the rails size being an issue with 60lb fuel injectors.





Regulator Location - Before I found this thread I mounted the fuel regulator (before plumbing things) at the location shown below. After I read this thread I put my hand on the regulator to see if it was hot after 15 minutes of driving and was shocked to see how hot the regulator was simply by absorbing heat from the engine. So I have moved it farther towards the passenger side. I'll keep monitor temps there for a while before I plumb things up.

 

[Tractionless1]

^^ Still heating and returning fuel to the tank. See my fuel rail temps above and that was without boosting! I spoke with my tuner and a handful of owners with much more experience and HP than I and they all have zero issue with DH'ing.

 

[JeronimoJC]

^^ Still heating and returning fuel to the tank. See my fuel rail temps above and that was without boosting! I spoke with my tuner and a handful of owners with much more experience and HP than I and they all have zero issue with DH'ing.

You are right, I touched the fuel rails after a short drive and was surprised to see how hot they were. Maybe I'll switch to a dead head sooner than I thought.

 

[JuStAkId]

After reading the thread it got me thinking. Is it possible to tie in the return line back into the feed line with like a T fitting? That would allow you to still have a free flowing fuel system (not deadhead set up) but also cancel out the hot fuel back in the fuel tank. So you would have the fuel regulator post fuel rails take the return and tie it back into your feed line somehow. I'm no fuel expert could take even work? Just an thought I had. Great thread by the way

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

^^^ dont see how you could do something like that could work...all I can figure is the feed line would end up pressurizing the return line

 

[JuStAkId]

^^^ dont see how you could do something like that could work...all I can figure is the feed line would end up pressurizing the return line

Good point! Totally didnt even think about that. You what about running the return line back into a feed port on the regulator?