We did a pulse ring in adams car A LONG LONG TIME AGO . (in a galaxy far far away) with no change to the issue but we figured it out and pulse ring not needed.
Comp Stage 3 N/A cams installed
- Thread starter Black5slow
- Start date
So......are you going to share how to resolve the issue?
I would love to join the club, i'd need a set of pistons and rods to engage 7500+ rpm to top 500HP on the Mooostang dyno. I might be closer on the dyno jet now.
does anyone know if there is a stage 4 cam coming out from comp? based on the work done on the powermedia NA 5.0 carbureted motor they had a unique cam set, and they were designed to work with locked out vct.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TgFpjQzeC28
still those lift numbers are only 12.5mm / 11.5mm - they can be larger still. i've heard of 13.5mm lift from one person and I also think MMR has a 13.5mm lift custom cam available. not sure though.
I wonder what a solid roller follower cam would do? ultra fast ramp rates.. I don't even think mmr used a solid roller in their 7 flat coyote.
I imagine the internet would melt down with all the complaints of motor ticking for one thing. also there may just not be a need for SR cams with the current hardware.
Twisted Neck you are already there. Just put it on a dynojet.
With proper oiling and cooling, isn't 7500+ still reasonable on the stock bottom end? 10-30 or 10-40 Amsoil SS, oil cooler (like MMR's, not the Boss one), 10qt. pan, radiator, head cooling kit, and billet gears? In dealing with rotary motors, you really learn the difference that good oil cooling can make. I wonder if a little forethought in oil cooling and water cooling would significantly increase the safe operating range for the stock rods and pistons.
Car goes back up to Rev sat for CJ intake, SCJ TB and Rev Auto intake. Any thoughts on new #s
E85 530 FTW purple 545
I wish I could do e85 but theres no stations within 30 miles of me that carry it so ill have to tune it on 93 :nonono:
Where in De are you located? There a a few relatively close to Wilmington and MD
Assuming traction 500 WHP N/A should be solid for 10.50's-10.60's @ 127-130
can anyone give me a real world install time/ difficulty level on these things? 5.0 isn't my DD so I'm not too concerned about time, but is it doable in a garage on jackstands? my main concern is setting the timing correctly.
I am about to do the CJ Exhaust cams in my garage. Follow Blazers oil pump gear guide and Comps guide to get it done. I would recommend doing the boss spring upgrade as well since its cheap and you will have the cams off any way. I am swapping springs as well and will be using the Freedom Racing Coyote spring compressor and compression adapter to hold the valves up.
agree, these are good rods and paired with light weight stock pistons they are stout. look at the bushed end and oil feed. these will spin a bearing before they fracture from rpm. seen that a few times already guys hitting 9000 rpm on accidental down shifts spin a rod bearing, rod was still fine. even the piston pin is a light weight piece, its the sweet box bridge piston design by mahle that makes this setup. only thing is, you are right, bad oiling and watch a bearing fail in the small or big end.
how to get better oiling? like you said, slightly thicker viscosity and better oil temperature control, and of course, no starvation issues. I think the factory gt pan is OK, but there is a reason the boss pan is different, wish I had one. the oil jets help keep these pistons alive, they are very good hypereutectics and as such have more strength than forged but are just brittle.
keep the detonation away it will save the rods too - the same hammering that fails the piston ring lands cracks the stock rods.
I think from experience I've hit 7800 rpm hundreds of times over my 18000 miles of driving it. I use 5-20 moble 1 extended life, but I know its not optimal like the 10-30 amsoil or the 10-30 royal purple.
penzoil has a wicked new oil out now too. oil pump gears for sure especially if you accidentally bounce off the limiter.
all this is moot if you apply boost, our stock rods cant handle the buckling loads, and the pistons although very strong cant deal with the high dynamic cylinder pressure at least at low rpm.
that's why when its turbo time, i'm building an 8500 rpm beast to keep the absolute cylinder dynamic pressures down yet still make gobs of power.
back to the comp cams stage 3, I've heard you may need more than boss springs if you are not using boss valves. simply because the valves are heavy in gt vs. hollow boss vales. I do belive also the absolute power potential of the larger more aggressive comp stage 3 is greater, but there is a price to pay for durability. those ford cams are built for 150,000 miles.
Thank you for the informative response. I'm not completely sure on all the specs, but Canton makes a ten quart pan that, I believe, loses no ground clearance versus the stock pan and has a good baffling system. Ten quarts stays cooler than eight obviously. That, coupled with a good oil cooler, should lend some great help in keeping the oil at a nice temperature. I'm seriously looking into this.
I want to buy Vorshlag's Bilstein strut/shock/spring/CC plate combo first, then I'll be starting the CJ intake and cams swap parts collecting. I'm hoping to have everything together by the end of Summer. Fingers crossed.
EDIT: As a side note, since I have a 2013, I most likely have no oil jets. With a stock bottom end, would that be a wise investment?
I want to buy Vorshlag's Bilstein strut/shock/spring/CC plate combo first, then I'll be starting the CJ intake and cams swap parts collecting. I'm hoping to have everything together by the end of Summer. Fingers crossed.
EDIT: As a side note, since I have a 2013, I most likely have no oil jets. With a stock bottom end, would that be a wise investment?
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Oil jets are out of fashion on drag and street Coyote's it seems. I'd like to find a builder who could add another one but the engineering needed is pretty hard and you would have to be an excellent fabricator / race engine builder. L&M has builds where they keep them, and if you find a circle track builder i'm sure they can add the jets I've seen 2015 blocks and they have the jets (from what I could tell).
still, its only one jet and it only works well because the piston is thick enough to spread that cooling around. thinner pistons would demand a lot more jets than one. you need the jets for temperature control, so drag and street don't need it, only endurance type racing and long highway pulls... or, when you have shitty gas one day and its detonation causing the cylinder to get way to hot.
i'm looking into that moroso pan for sure, but the ford racing pan is proven to make more HP on the cj cars, so despite its $1500 price tag that's it for me.
careful with the oil cooler, the same Ford coyote engine rebuilder guy on YB said one of the main engine failure causes is external oil coolers and external oil filters. seems its easy to get the lines crossed during install and it kills the motor with backward oil flow. i'm so scared of doing that now, I probably wont run an oil cooler. hopefully e85 will run cool enough to negate the need.
why the Bilsteins and not the MCS?
http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info.php?cPath=141_142_179&products_id=646
I heard you can get a lot more damping out of the MCS but those Bilsteins do look good and do the job. I wonder which one is lighter weight?
anyone try the comp stage 3's on a road track situation? they should be great as long as rpm is above 4000 all the time, I think you might get a big bog at lower rpm unless your vct is just right.
I'm mainly going with the Bilstein combo because it's only $1500. I'm not doing the COs, just the strut/shock/spring setup that they offer. I also like that the Bilstein BTS springs only drop about 15mm up front and 38mm out back. That will level the car out while keeping it driveable on the bad roads around here.
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