31BCobra Fore Level 2 Return Install Thread
- Thread starter 31BCobra
- Start date
Are you sure that the cable is clipped into the housing as well as onto the TB? Only thing I could think of.
Okay, so I did some reading. Out of the 3 Cobras I have owned, they all must have already had the "gas pedal mod." I never knew that from the factory the gas pedal was way way below the brake pedal. So I think during the process of removing the throttle body and throttle cable, that this mod the previous owner had done came off. Cut a piece of hose and put it over the end of the cable and zip tied it down, now my pedal is back to where it was before. Crazy that Ford delivered such a short throttle throw from the factory like that, would have been near impossible to heel-toe downshift while racing.
Thanks for the suggestions guys.
As for my build, everything is just about buttoned up. Hopefully tomorrow I will have a startup tune and nothing else leaks when I crank it.
Thanks for the suggestions guys.
As for my build, everything is just about buttoned up. Hopefully tomorrow I will have a startup tune and nothing else leaks when I crank it.
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I wonder if it is done on yours and you don't even realize it. I mean, I have no idea how I could screw that up, but after I added that spacer it seemed to get it right back to where it was before this whole mess.
Where is it exactly? My car was nearly stock when I bought it. It didn't even have the gas pedal plate that Ford made due to accelerator pedal getting stuck on carpet.
Stick your head down near the pedals and follow the gas pedal up. At the top of it is where the throttle cable sticks through. If it is stock, you should be able to grab the throttle and pull it a good inch and a half towards you and see all the excess slack on the throttle cable at the top. If not, then it has either been shortened or you may see something like a hose or spacer to pull that slack out.
Here is the writeup I found on it.
http://www.mustangworld.com/ourpics/fcar/99pedals.htm It says for 99 & 2000 models, but it worked just as good for my Car.
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Okay, here is my issue for the day.
I primed the system in preparation for getting it started up and I found that these two set screws on the driver side Fore rail are leaking a tiny bit of fuel. I noticed that they were pretty damn tight and took of the FRPS blockoff to release pressure in the rail. But the damn things still will not budge. Should I just manhandle these off or is there risk of breaking / stripping them? Should I put anything on the threads to keep them from leaking? I assumed they would be good to go from Fore.
I primed the system in preparation for getting it started up and I found that these two set screws on the driver side Fore rail are leaking a tiny bit of fuel. I noticed that they were pretty damn tight and took of the FRPS blockoff to release pressure in the rail. But the damn things still will not budge. Should I just manhandle these off or is there risk of breaking / stripping them? Should I put anything on the threads to keep them from leaking? I assumed they would be good to go from Fore.
Damn man thats scary. Screw those up and you may end up pulling the blower if the rails get messed up.
Id ask FORE about it but teflon tape/dope usually does the trick.
Id ask FORE about it but teflon tape/dope usually does the trick.
Yea, I called Fore and they said that they have had 4 or so cases in the past of them being on there so tight that the customer had to return it and if it is leaking, my only option is to pull the setscrew out and reapply some Loctite 567. So I sat over it for about 30 minutes making sure that I had the right Allen wrench and working myself up to it.
****er rounded off.... It was in there so goddamn tight and the aluminum screw just gave way under the pressure.
Gonna call Fore back in the morning but the rail is gonna have to come off and go back to them to have that setscrew removed and the threads retapped. I guess the bright side is that it is on the driver side, so I should be able to get it off without pulling the blower. Just sucks cause it will probably be mid next week before I get the rail back.
how did you end up getting the fuel injectors back in?
yeah, you needed to use thread sealant. Only the flared or o-ring fittings do no need sealant. I put sealant on all NPT fittings
What do you mean? I think you are missing something here. It is the driver rail. Couple bolts and the rail comes off. Pop the injectors out and that is it. Install in reverse order. Pretty simple and straight forward
^^^ I'm curious what he ended up doing... if he forced them in with the oring retainers, I would advise him to pull them back out and remove the retainer... I just went through this same problem. Good thing I pulled mine back off as i found 6 out of the 8 retainers broken. Had i not done that i would've lost my engine.
What retainer are you talking about? The things called extensions? I have had some that were hard to push down, but don't think they were ever 1/8" off. Some pressure pushing the rail down and they were fine. Nothing broken.
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There is a black plastic retainer on the bottom of the injectors closest to the nozzle... If it's not removed and forced into place they will crack. It's directly below the oring
This also depends on what intake is used... Most of the factory intakes have a groove that the oring rests on... If that groove is on the intake, the retainers are supposed to be removed per instructions directly from injector dynamics... Once they are removed there is hardly any effort for them to seat into the intake... Just be careful is all I'm saying... Better to remove them while you can apposed to have a cracked one fall into the engine.
Oh yeah, totally agree. When you say groove, you mean the machined boss that the o-ring rests on inside the injector whole on the terminator lower intakes and others.
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That is correct... I thought I snapped a picture of the injector removed and the retainer removed also but I guess not... I can post a picture later of the broken retainer later if anyone wants to see what I'm talking about.
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