Bringing the 4lb Caged lower back from the Dead?

[cj428mach]

I got another factory caged lower. 3rd one now. This one has only ever turned over a factory Eaton blower which is what I was specifically looking for. I attached it to my jig for pulling these apart, put a little heat on it and wow with one arm I took it apart with a regular Sears breaker bar like butter. Unreal difference, like day and night. The other two lowers that had been over stressed turning over that 2.9 Whipple where so seized up half the threads were trashed. As mentioned above I heated them almost glowing red, destroyed 5 + breaker bars and sockets using a 6 foot cheater bar on the breaker bars and beating down with a BFH to get them apart.

My point. If your lower has been turning over a bigger heavier blower be warned it may not come apart. BTW if you grab an Eaton and spin it over by hand and then grab a 2.9 its unreal how hard it is to turn the 2.9. I have no idea why the Whipple is like that.

Glad to hear you got one apart. Are you going to try the poly bushing material? or go with aluminum?

It blew me away how hard it was to get my lower off the car this last time after it had only been on for 300 miles with the TVS at 21-23 psi. I got the one off my old SB 80k mile car with ease and it had never been removed. I think the blower/boost had something to do with it.

 

[MalcolmV8]

Glad to hear you got one apart. Are you going to try the poly bushing material? or go with aluminum?

It blew me away how hard it was to get my lower off the car this last time after it had only been on for 300 miles with the TVS at 21-23 psi. I got the one off my old SB 80k mile car with ease and it had never been removed. I think the blower/boost had something to do with it.

I'm going to use that poly material you gave me. Can you email me what ever specs or info you have as to the exact material it is. I'd like to give the machine shop as much info as possible tomorrow when I take it in.

After seeing how much abuse the center threads there take from the 2.9 I'm thinking putting aluminum in there might be a bad idea. A little give or vibration absorption is probably a good thing.

 

[cj428mach]

I'm going to use that poly material you gave me. Can you email me what ever specs or info you have as to the exact material it is. I'd like to give the machine shop as much info as possible tomorrow when I take it in.

After seeing how much abuse the center threads there take from the 2.9 I'm thinking putting aluminum in there might be a bad idea. A little give or vibration absorption is probably a good thing.

I was wondering if a guy could put a copper washer or something soft on the shaft of the lower where the tri-bar threads on. The idea would be when its getting hammered the washer would give and instead of letting the lower thread itself together even tighter rather than bottoming out on the shaft and beginning to become hard on the threads. Either that or put a little tack weld on it to prevent further tightening but it might take a lot of weld to hold it, lol.

The black stuff I sent you is Black Polyurethane Tubing, 1-1/4" OD, 1/2" ID, 6" Long, 80a Durometer, from McMaster Carr.com P/N: 87235K12

You can find it at the link here. http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/121/3584/=z9yadv

It says its for temps -20 to 185 degrees but a member here has used it and said it works great. He went with the 60a durometer stuff in urethane and was happy with it.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...d-Pulley-Rebuild-Option-for-03-04-Terminators

The orange stuff I sent you was silicone which has a hardness of 60a and operating range of -60 to 500 degrees. This is what I plan to use in my lower. http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/121/3578/=z9ybw2

Are you going to have the machine shop cut the poly bushings for you? They don't have to be that precise as you can see from the one link I posted just cutting them at home and cleaning them up with a grinder will work fine.

 

[cozmo2806]

Malcolm, on your 2.9 I'd definitely weld the center hub to the drive piece.

 

[MalcolmV8]

Malcolm, on your 2.9 I'd definitely weld the center hub to the drive piece.

I hadn't considered that. It means it just became a permanent non serviceable piece though

 

[cozmo2806]

I hadn't considered that. It means it just became a permanent non serviceable piece though

True, but it would eliminate the problem of breakage. Its a tough call.

Or maybe a guy could put a screw in where the 2 pieces thread together. Drill and tap at the part where the threads are so half the screw is in the center hub piece and the other half of the screw is in the drive piece. This would prevent it from turning any further.

 

[MalcolmV8]

I was wondering if a guy could put a copper washer or something soft on the shaft of the lower where the tri-bar threads on. The idea would be when its getting hammered the washer would give and instead of letting the lower thread itself together even tighter rather than bottoming out on the shaft and beginning to become hard on the threads. Either that or put a little tack weld on it to prevent further tightening but it might take a lot of weld to hold it, lol.

The black stuff I sent you is Black Polyurethane Tubing, 1-1/4" OD, 1/2" ID, 6" Long, 80a Durometer, from McMaster Carr.com P/N: 87235K12

You can find it at the link here. http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/121/3584/=z9yadv

It says its for temps -20 to 185 degrees but a member here has used it and said it works great. He went with the 60a durometer stuff in urethane and was happy with it.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...d-Pulley-Rebuild-Option-for-03-04-Terminators

The orange stuff I sent you was silicone which has a hardness of 60a and operating range of -60 to 500 degrees. This is what I plan to use in my lower. http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/121/3578/=z9ybw2

Are you going to have the machine shop cut the poly bushings for you? They don't have to be that precise as you can see from the one link I posted just cutting them at home and cleaning them up with a grinder will work fine.

Dang it, I replied to this earlier and then the forum crashed. I said thanks for the specs and that yes I could make the bushings myself, probably will. Main reason for the machine shop visit was to see if they could build me a new tri-bar setup or fix my two broken ones.
Tack welds would have to be deep to hold and as such pretty much end the item. You'd have to grind deep to get them out and essentially ruin the unit.
I'd like them to build me a tri-bar with spline if possible. So a nut on the end would just stop them sliding apart but the spline is what would take the heavy rotational force. Much like how driveshafts work.

 

[cj428mach]

Or maybe a guy could put a screw in where the 2 pieces thread together. Drill and tap at the part where the threads are so half the screw is in the center hub piece and the other half of the screw is in the drive piece. This would prevent it from turning any further.

That might work as that is how pulleys at work are held.

 

[cozmo2806]

That might work as that is how pulleys at work are held.

Yes and shouldn'tbe too hard.

 

[MalcolmV8]

Malcolm, on your 2.9 I'd definitely weld the center hub to the drive piece.

You did give me a great idea though. On the other two I pulled apart and the top half of the threads were hosed. I could get new bushings in there. Thread back what's left of the threads and then weld that one shut. That'd give me a replacement lower.

 

[cj428mach]

Yes and shouldn'tbe too hard.

Here is a pic of the style thats common in heavy industry

I believe its called a taper lock incase you wanted to google more pics of them.

http://2.imimg.com/data2/PR/VV/MY-2073659/35-250x250.jpg

I think a couple of well placed set screws could work to keep them from over tightening.

 

[MalcolmV8]

The black stuff I sent you is Black Polyurethane Tubing, 1-1/4" OD, 1/2" ID, 6" Long, 80a Durometer, from McMaster Carr.com P/N: 87235K12

Thanks just ordered another stick of it. My first attempt today did not come out as good as I would have liked. That stuff is a pain to hold and cut straight and you can't use power tools to easily or it just melts and makes a mess. I eventually got smart and put a steel rod in the center to make it solid and able to grip in vice etc. properly but I was already to far gone. Next round should go a lot better. I think this time hand tools like hack saws and hand files should produce better results.

 

[cj428mach]

Thanks just ordered another stick of it. My first attempt today did not come out as good as I would have liked. That stuff is a pain to hold and cut straight and you can't use power tools to easily or it just melts and makes a mess. I eventually got smart and put a steel rod in the center to make it solid and able to grip in vice etc. properly but I was already to far gone. Next round should go a lot better. I think this time hand tools like hack saws and hand files should produce better results.

The poly stuff wasn't fun to cut. I used a hack saw on it and damn it was tough and just wouldn't cut worth a damn, lol. The silicone stuff cuts like butter with a hack saw.

I hope you can find something to cut it with. Maybe try to find some of those hose cutters that auto parts stores use to cut bulk hose.

 

[MalcolmV8]

The poly stuff wasn't fun to cut. I used a hack saw on it and damn it was tough and just wouldn't cut worth a damn, lol. The silicone stuff cuts like butter with a hack saw.

I hope you can find something to cut it with. Maybe try to find some of those hose cutters that auto parts stores use to cut bulk hose.

Yeah I tried a variety of tools and they all cut terrible lol. Humm. I actually have a huge set of shears for cutting radiator hoses etc. Probably not as big as auto parts store units though. I didn't even try it because I could just tell it wasn't going to work with the results I was getting.

 

[lescok]

Cj428, any updates on these?

 

[cj428mach]

Cj428, any updates on these?

I was thinking I needed to make an update to this thread.

I'm stilling waiting for the machine shop to call me in to look at the CAD work. I've been working out of town during the day lately so I haven't been able to stop on in and check on it.

The shop was saying it would be 6-8 weeks before they'd have them done. Well it shouldn't take very long to do the CAD work and the machine work should be done in a few hours. They don't have the ability to hard anodize in house so that'll be farmed out but shouldn't take very long. I guess where I'm going with all of this is I take it most of that 6-8 weeks was going to be spent waiting my spot in line as the work won't take long at all.

I'll try to send an email to the shop and see how its going. I think the guy thought I'd never be back after the first visit when he told me how expensive this would be lol.

Like I said I plan to see this through. I'm kinda to the point where I'm looking for side projects on my car to keep me busy and this will be fun to be a part of.

 

[MalcolmV8]

Still curious on this project too. Once my car is running I may need one Won't know till i get it going and get some miles on.

 

[cj428mach]

Update.

I emailed the Machine shop and they said they were hoping to get started on it in the next few weeks and have a finished product by mid December. He said this is the time of the year where they're super busy. Oh well its that time of the year where no one is driving their cars anyways lol.

 

[MG0h3]

Cool man let us know

 

[cclark]

I would be down to purchase a caged 4# lower if this pans out.