I am getting ready to install a one-off version for hurtnem. One-off because it will be used to cool the intercooler fluid and the trans fluid.
Just don't rupture those lines near a high heat source because ES-12a is very flamable...
Just FYI guys because im an A/C guy. Same goes for ES-12a just becarefull.
HC-12aFrom Wikipedia, the free encyclopediaJump to: navigation, search
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HC-12a, also called ES-12a, OZ-12a, and Hydrocarbon Blend B, is a "drop-in" replacement refrigerant for Freon-12 and to a lesser extent, R-134a. HC-12a is a mixture of hydrocarbons, specifically propane (R-290) and isobutane (R-600a), and is therefore considered nearly non-ozone-depleting when compared to dichlorodifluoromethane (R-12, Freon-12) or 1,1,1,2-tetrafluoroethane (R-134a). The mixture can be used in refrigeration systems designed for R-12. HC-12a provides better cooling than an R-12 system retrofitted to R-134a, with much greater energy efficiency as well. Unlike R-134a, HC-12a is completely compatible with the hoses and oils used in R-12 systems, making the conversion much easier to accomplish. HC-12a is also patent-free due to its non-synthetic nature.
Because of its flammability, it is illegal to replace R-12 with HC-12a in the United States. It is not illegal to purchase HC-12a, or to use it in refrigeration systems that were not originally charged with R-12, except for in certain states that prohibit the use of flammable refrigerants in automobiles.[1]Some advantages to using the HC-12a mixture over retrofitting to R-134a are cost and labor. Since HC-12a is a "drop-in" replacement, no seals need to be replaced and minimal effort has to be put in to changing the refrigeration system around. Disadvantages to using the HC-12a mixture in R-12 systems is that it is potentially dangerous and is illegal in the United States. The refrigerant used is propane and other hydrocarbons which are flammable. However, it should also be noted that R-134a (and other refrigerants) are just as flammable when mixed with refrigerant oil, yet the quantity of refrigerant and oil in a typical system is so low that the danger in any case is minimal. Additionally, when R-134a is exposed to flame, it releases toxic phosgene gas, whereas HC-12a is completely non-toxic.
They are definitely worth it but make sure you are running the stock HE or pulling the HE out altogether. I currently have a fluidyne HE with a gen2 KC. I will post up numbers afterwork of my IATs, IC fluid temp and ambient temp. Then I will remove the HE altogether and post the numbers.
That sounds like a really cool project. You should take some pics as you go along, then write up a thread afterward.;-)
I'm looking at buying a KC, but I have a LFP HE - How much higher would the IATs be with me just using this HE? I really like the way my HE looks with the SVT stencil on the front hate to get rid of it!
If its just a few degrees difference I can deal with that.
I am getting ready to install a one-off version for hurtnem. One-off because it will be used to cool the intercooler fluid and the trans fluid.
Just don't rupture those lines near a high heat source because ES-12a is very flamable...
Just FYI guys because im an A/C guy. Same goes for ES-12a just becarefull.
How will you limit how cold the trans. fluid gets? I've see POST blower IC fluid temps. of 37* and I know transmissions have a certain operating temp. range.
Thats a rough idea of how it will work. I will put up a thread and stuff when the time comes.
Just my findings so far, I will keep this thread updated as I tweak different variables and try different scenario's to find the optimal setup for my cobra.
My Gen2 KC (tubular style) has been on my car since march this year, I always run with the AC on.
My IAT (precharge) driving temp hangs around 80-90 degrees. Steeda underhood CAI. My IAT2 (chargetemp) while moving runs around 110-115. Stop and go traffic it climbs too 130-140. This was with my Fluidyne HE.
Lastnight I removed my HE completely and am still watching numbers to get a good idea of the difference. So far what I have noticed w/o HE the KC unit in my car maintains lower IAT2's while idle hangs around 100-105. However, continuous spirited driving my setup does not maintain lower temp. Remaining in boost my IAT2's rise quickly from 105 to 130+ and cannot retrun below 125 until the car sits at idle for several minutes.
So far it seems that in my car no HE would benefit drag runs or shorter boosted runs and some form of HE for daily driving as the moving air through the HE maintains a higher constant IAT2 110-115 however, during longer drives and continuous boosted the HE helps keep up with heaksoak.
Please do not take my word as gospel as I have countless variables that need to be addressed. I need to address the IAT (precharge) mainly going from an underhood CAI to a true CAI like JLT. Also I need to find out how much charge my AC unit has and look into a colder refrigerant than R-134a.
Great Thread. I have a KC on my car, and I honestly can't say how great it is yet, but as a side-note. Are the people getting kits getting the cylinder units instead of the rectangular units shown in the pictures? Only reason I ask is that's what I've got, and I'm not sure how much testing was done on it, but all it seems to do is keep my IC fluid luke-warm, I've never felt it Ice Cold. Maybe I need to give Joe a call. :shrug:
Just my findings so far, I will keep this thread updated as I tweak different variables and try different scenario's to find the optimal setup for my cobra.
My Gen2 KC (tubular style) has been on my car since march this year, I always run with the AC on.
My IAT (precharge) driving temp hangs around 80-90 degrees. Steeda underhood CAI. My IAT2 (chargetemp) while moving runs around 110-115. Stop and go traffic it climbs too 130-140. This was with my Fluidyne HE.
Lastnight I removed my HE completely and am still watching numbers to get a good idea of the difference. So far what I have noticed w/o HE the KC unit in my car maintains lower IAT2's while idle hangs around 100-105. However, continuous spirited driving my setup does not maintain lower temp. Remaining in boost my IAT2's rise quickly from 105 to 130+ and cannot retrun below 125 until the car sits at idle for several minutes.
So far it seems that in my car no HE would benefit drag runs or shorter boosted runs and some form of HE for daily driving as the moving air through the HE maintains a higher constant IAT2 110-115 however, during longer drives and continuous boosted the HE helps keep up with heaksoak.
Please do not take my word as gospel as I have countless variables that need to be addressed. I need to address the IAT (precharge) mainly going from an underhood CAI to a true CAI like JLT. Also I need to find out how much charge my AC unit has and look into a colder refrigerant than R-134a.
cobra_mer, as I mentioned in another post you have to get everything perfect for the shell exchangers to work correctly. Call me and I'll switch you out to the old style plate exchanger. You just have to make sure you run enough antifreeze to prevent freeze up in the event the IC pump stops working.
Thanks,
Joe