KC -Worth it or not, street only

cobracide

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Is the Killer Chiller worth it on the street? Running a 2.90/4# Posi port, seeing 16.5# of boost and 140* IAT2's here in the southeast recently but typically under 125*. Anything over 95* ambient, the timing pull is killing it. Looking at the weather in the SE, it seems that the KC is a viable option to reduce the IAT2's.

This is a daily driver so "keep it simple" is the theory. Suggestions?

-No, I am sticking with the heaton Eaton for now! : )
 

black 10th vert

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It seems like it would be a great solution for you, but I will wait for those that actually run them to chime in, because I am interested in this also (even though it isn't quite as hot up here).
 

Tractionless1

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Is the Killer Chiller worth it on the street? Running a 2.90/4# Posi port, seeing 16.5# of boost and 140* IAT2's here in the southeast recently but typically under 125*. Anything over 95* ambient, the timing pull is killing it. Looking at the weather in the SE, it seems that the KC is a viable option to reduce the IAT2's.

This is a daily driver so "keep it simple" is the theory. Suggestions?

-No, I am sticking with the heaton Eaton for now! : )

Come on surely you know about my threads?!! :dw: Search "killer" here by Tractionless1 and "initial" on Modfords by Tractionless.

But in short if you want your IAT2's at ambient instead of 125-140, then yes it's worth it on the street. Feel free to PM me, after reading the threads with any questions! :beer:
 

Jimmysidecarr

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When the engine temps and parked heat soak temps are well over 200F, that heat loads into the I/C fluid via the intercooler sitting in the intake bolted up to a very hot engine valley.

I have not installed mine yet because I had hand surgery and my new job has had me so busy I just want to take it easy when the evenings and week ends come. However, I have read enough testimonials to know that having hot day tire traction with cold day IAT2s is the quintessential "having your cake and eating it too". :-D:rockon:

Think about that for a few minutes.
 

IronTerp

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The Killer Chiller technology is the most advanced and effective cooling system to date for the 03/04' Cobras. If you want to maximize your aggressive Eaton setup on the street, a lot of folks in the know would reommend it.
 

cobracide

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Come on surely you know about my threads?!! :dw: Search "killer" here by Tractionless1 and "initial" on Modfords by Tractionless.

But in short if you want your IAT2's at ambient instead of 125-140, then yes it's worth it on the street. Feel free to PM me, after reading the threads with any questions! :beer:

I've read a ton, almost sold on it. Just want maybe bit more convincing? Whom has experience with the Gen2? How does Gen1 differ from Gen2 - Operation wise maybe? I was thinking about the addition of a valve to shut off the H/E during the summer and open during the winter.. good idea with the gen2? Don't want the cabin temps to be affected (that much) so what refrigerant works good and how much did you use? R-134a? Did you have to re-load the entire system with it? My AC works awesome now and I really don't want to screw it up. It's a necessity down here in the southeast.
 
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gabe1530

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id jump on that GB while you can!
i have the gen2. had it with my eaton and now with the 2.9. i never noticed a difference in cabin temps. i use r134a as well. installed system and then put 4 cans in and its worked great for a year now. also bought a water temp gauge so i can monitor temps in my intercooler. the temps drop instantly.
 

cobracide

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id jump on that GB while you can!
i have the gen2. had it with my eaton and now with the 2.9. i never noticed a difference in cabin temps. i use r134a as well. installed system and then put 4 cans in and its worked great for a year now. also bought a water temp gauge so i can monitor temps in my intercooler. the temps drop instantly.

Would a heat exchanger cut off valve be beneficial on a Gen2?
 

gabe1530

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Yes it would be extremely beneficial. im still running the stock HE and see water temps in the low 50's. with the cut off valve i would estimate temps in the high 30's low 40's.
 

black 10th vert

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I've read a ton, almost sold on it. Just want maybe bit more convincing? Whom has experience with the Gen2? How does Gen1 differ from Gen2 - Operation wise maybe? I was thinking about the addition of a valve to shut off the H/E during the summer and open during the winter.. good idea with the gen2? Don't want the cabin temps to be affected (that much) so what refrigerant works good and how much did you use? R-134a? Did you have to re-load the entire system with it? My AC works awesome now and I really don't want to screw it up. It's a necessity down here in the southeast.

From what I understand, Kincaid recommends an industrial R12 refrigerant instead of 134a, and supposedly it is compatible with our system. It makes it even "cooler" which helps keep cabin temp unaffected by the extra load of the KC. I really want one of these too, just can't swing it right now with the Whipple, and fuel system stuff I have been buying lately.:(
 

joseph.devenney

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Seems like a pretty straight forward install too! Although I have read about a couple of guys having a really hard time re-charging the system. This will more than likely be my next mod. How much of a difference do you think an after market H/E will make than a stocker? Sorry to hijack.
 

gabe1530

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an after market HE will make the cooling effects of the KC worse. thats why the OP was asking about a valve to shut off the stock HE when say hes at the track or wants to do some spirited runs.
 

Tractionless1

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I've read a ton, almost sold on it. Just want maybe bit more convincing? Whom has experience with the Gen2? How does Gen1 differ from Gen2 - Operation wise maybe? I was thinking about the addition of a valve to shut off the H/E during the summer and open during the winter.. good idea with the gen2? Don't want the cabin temps to be affected (that much) so what refrigerant works good and how much did you use? R-134a? Did you have to re-load the entire system with it? My AC works awesome now and I really don't want to screw it up. It's a necessity down here in the southeast.

Most have the gen2, gen1 is obsolete except I have the gen1 core on my care with gen2 upgraded lines. The valve is a good idea with either gen. ES-12a, buy 3 cans, and I recommend 41psi low side @ 85* ambient. Also run a white GM orifice tube instead of the blue Ford it comes with.

id jump on that GB while you can!
i have the gen2. had it with my eaton and now with the 2.9. i never noticed a difference in cabin temps. i use r134a as well. installed system and then put 4 cans in and its worked great for a year now. also bought a water temp gauge so i can monitor temps in my intercooler. the temps drop instantly.

Use ES-12a industrial and watch your IC flud temps. drop another 10-15* as well as colder cabin air.

Would a heat exchanger cut off valve be beneficial on a Gen2?

Beneficial on all.

an after market HE will make the cooling effects of the KC worse. thats why the OP was asking about a valve to shut off the stock HE when say hes at the track or wants to do some spirited runs.

+1 :rolling:
 

raym5_0

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I experimented a little with my KC this weekend, I blocked the front of my HE, to see if it would help any, the cold coolant in the IC system going through the HE is being hit with hot ambient air and is cooling it down some.

I noticed that IAT2 temps were around 10 degrees warmer, also eng coolant temp up about 5-10 degrees. The higher temps are most likley from the decrease in incoming air able to hit condensor & raditator. I stopped a couple times for errands so it was pretty heat soaked, the system may have been able to keep up, if it were to run without shutting off. I'm usually around 100* IAT2 with 90*+ ambient air. Blocked it was around 108-110* IAT2's. I may change to a stock HE from the AFCO, or just remove it totally. Thus the IC system would rely on just the KC cooling it. If the AC goes out, I should notice the IAT2 temps pretty quickly on the Aeroforce gauge along with cabin temps. I suspect eng coolant temp and AC condenser should benifit from the extra air flow as well if the HE removed.

I thought about the bypass valves, but as Tractionless knows, it gets a quite congested in that area for the extra plumbing involved.
 
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