Tork Tech Terminator Install

[foofinator]

For what it's worth, O'Reilly's sells an elbow that is not PERFECT, but it is a lot cheaper than the silicone version. It fits snug on the copper nipple, but is sort of loose on the manifold. However, it does not leak when clamped down.

I believe it was $10 and readily available.

Thanks Toby! :beer:

 

[cinch1985]

Part number on the Elbow

 

[tobynt]

For what it's worth, O'Reilly's sells an elbow that is not PERFECT, but it is a lot cheaper than the silicone version. It fits snug on the copper nipple, but is sort of loose on the manifold. However, it does not leak when clamped down.

I believe it was $10 and readily available.

Thanks Toby! :beer:

Damn perfect!!!!!!!!

Process is simple but not really something you can (well...me anyway) explain verbatim on how to do. Pretty much set the ends up in the elbows coming off of the lower intake coolant ports then start dry fitting the center sections until you get them to connect and mark your elbows...then stick them together with solder.

I had thought about going with an "off the shelf" elbow for that little port. When I found the silicon one that had the 1/2" for the intake side and 5/8" for the copper tubing...I went ahead and got that one.

You did a great job. Feel free to do a "step by step" write up on it. Heck, make up 5 or 6 and sale them....

 

[tobynt]

I got my car off of the dyno yesterday. Handful of problems to get it to run right but that was because I apparently got bad injectors. Guess in all fairness....I don't know if the short from the original wiring harness blowed them out or if I received them that way.

I'll post more later but the short of it is.... 400 horsepower and 410 torque. about 13 on timing. 9-10 lbs boost. During the tuning...we seen about 380 at 11 on timing. So the system has a long way it could go. I know a steg ported blower can easily push up to 17-18 lbs of boost and a good bottom end can handle 16-18 degrees of timing.

 

[cinch1985]

Yea mine made 433/405 on 5 pounds. But I have cams and long tubes.

 

[KLeech]

If one of you guys wanted to make one of those copper coolant crossover tubes to sell let me know the price.. I'd really like to have one!

 

[cinch1985]

im goin to start on mine this week. shouldnt be much of a problem since i braze everyday.

 

[cuda99]

intercooler tube

I will second that for intercooler tube price. I would love to do it myself but time is at a premium. If you 're interested shoot me a price.

 

[foofinator]

That's great man! I'm glad you met your goal.

I can't wait to take mine to the dyno. I've been trying to get the in-line thermostat figured out without having to buy both housings!

I think I can get it done without, but it will look like crap with adapters and hose clamps everywhere.

Might as well spend the 50 bucks!

Keep us posted on your build.

 

[tobynt]

I know exactly what you mean. I had to step back a few times and regroup my thoughts with the reason why I was doing it. Which was to clean it up, that's why I went ahead and purchased the 2nd housing.

I absolutely hate adding more clamps and compounding the possibility of failure points in the over all "redesign". At this point...my system has 10 clamps, 8 soldered joints, 5 hose sections and 1 rubber seal (in the housing). That comes out to 24 points of possible failure. If I had added another "splice" in the system to give me an opportunity to use a hose reducer. It would have enable me to not have to purchase another housing. But, It would have added...at minimum, 4 more points of possible failure with only adding one more section.

That helped soften the "mental" and "financial" blow of buying another housing to reduce the 1 1/2" hose to 1 1/4"

 

[Burninrock24]

I love what you did to the valve covers. Very clean. Where did you get that badge? I'm trying to do the same to my 2v set up.

 

[califsp]

Just in case anyone is doing the inline thermostat housing...
I talked to meziere and they said you can use part number WN0073 in either
direction. This is great because you don't have to buy two housings
to get a 1 1/4 inlet with a 1 1/2 outlet.

 

[tobynt]

Good Deal.....I never looked around to see if they offered it with different size ports. I updated the parts list above.

 

[tobynt]

Belt sizes.

These are belt sizes and part number that worked for me.

Billet Flow pulleys

3.650 = Gates K080550 Micro-V Belt

3.400 = Gates K080550 Micro-V Belt

3.100 = Gates K080545HD Micro-V Belt (this is a "fleet runner" green belt and has almost no give to it)

2.930 = Gates K080537HD V-Belt (this is a "fleet runner" green belt and has almost no give to it)

A few things to note: the 54.5" HD belt may work for a 2.93 pulley. I don't know because I did not try. I started out with a 2.93 and a 53.7" belt. It was tough but it fit and it did not have a chance in hell of wrapping around the 3.1 pulley. So I put the 3.1 pulley on and moved up to the next size belt. Which was a 54.5" HD

I personally have no clue why the gates 8 rib 55" belt worked for the 3.65" pulley. Technically, it shouldn't have had a chance in hell of fitting. Especially given how tight the Heavy Duty "Fleet Runner" belt is on the 3.1" pulley. Best I can figure...the 55" belt I got has a little more give in it. but it is very tight on the 3.65" pulley and puts the tensioner around the halfway mark when using the same belt on the 3.4" pulley.

A few people have commented that the 3.65" pulley runs a 56" belt. Just turned out...for me and the Gates 55" belt I had...it worked for the 3.65" and the 3.4"

It can be a little tricky to get these short and wide belts to slip on. The easiest thing is to have three or four hands. I took the same approach with it as I do with all serpentine belts. I route the grooves in all of the pulleys that have groves the get the belt to twist and lay flat (back side of belt) against the idler pulley that would run on the back side of the belt. When the tensioner is pushed all the way down....just slip the belt over the pulley...basically sliding the back side of the belt (smooth side) against the pulley face and it will slide around and into position with no fuss.

In this case, the belt is very wide..(makes twisting it around to lay flat against the two idler pulleys a bit of a pain) and its also a very short belt. So doing this with only two hands. One on the ratchet keeping the tensioner pushed over and the other hand quickly getting the belt rested in the grooves while also twisting the backside of the belt on the face of the idler pulleys and pushing them over so they slip into position....can get a little tricky but it is possible and very easy when you get it down pat. Once you figure out this method, you can put the belt on and off with out any trouble and manage to do without damaging the v sections of the belt.

With someone else to help. They can keep the tensioner pulled down while you comfortably work with your other two hands to get the Crank pulley, tensioner pulley and snot pulley in place...then allowing you to work on getting the belt slipped over the idler pulleys.

 

[cinch1985]

No 2.76 pulley lol. I'm goin to be runnin one so I will post the belt size

 

[tobynt]

No 2.76 pulley lol. I'm goin to be runnin one so I will post the belt size

lol...nope, I don't have a belt for that size. I actually have a 2.76 pulley. I was guessing at a 54" belt with a 3.1" pulley. So the smallest belt I purchased was one below and one above.

After that I guessed at 57-58" belt for the 3.65" pulley. Boy was I way wrong on that one!

Down side is. I don't have any local parts houses that stock 8 rib belts smaller then 65" and anything smaller has to be purchased upfront and ordered. So, I started buying new belts off of amozon.com. Now I have a shit load of belts..and almost every belt Gates makes in an 8 rib from 53.7"-58"

But, if you order them from Amazon.com...it will only coast about $20 per belt instead of the $38-4$5 that most parts houses charge.

Belts I have on hand are.

Gates K080580 Micro-V Belt
Gates K080575 Micro-V Belt
Gates K080570 Micro-V Belt
Gates K080565 Micro-V Belt
Gates K080560 Micro-V Belt
Gates K080558 Micro-V Belt
Gates K080550 Micro-V Belt

Gates K080545HD Micro-V Belt
Gates K080537HD Micro-V Belt

Though, as noted in my other post. The "HD" belts are very tight with almost no give to them. I'm not sure a 54.5 8 rib belt that's not an "HD" would have a proper fit on the 3.1" pulley. I do plan on finding out sometime down the road because I'm not crazy about the green belt. But, I'm done spending money for a while. Having to purchase another set of 42 lb injectors the day of the dyno put a fairly big "unexpected" dent in my pocket.....especially having to buy them over the counter for a little over $600 for all 8

Looking forward to finding out what size belt works for the 2.76 pulley.

 

[KLeech]

That's crazy you got a 55" belt to fit with the stock pulley, my gates HD 56" belt is definitely a snug fit for the stock 3.65 pulley. Even with a regular belt at 56" it was still tight. And I found a lot of belts on eBay 25-30 dollars brand new. Just type in the part number and viola. Picked my hd up for 33 I believe. And on a side note, you could've bought belts in the lengths you thought you needed on a smaller rib like 4/6 to check proper size then return those. That's what I did to find the size for mine.

 

[foofinator]

Thanks for posting the information!

It is also cool to see that a lot of other members are doing the torktech kit as well.

We should start a thread in pics and vids.

 

[KLeech]

Thanks for posting the information!

It is also cool to see that a lot of other members are doing the torktech kit as well.

We should start a thread in pics and vids.

+1 for that idea!!

 

[foofinator]

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...-up-your-tork-tech-mustangs.html#post11720400