Sick! I just bought their Single kit and now I am wondering if I should have went twins
Tear Down Has Begun! Hellion TT Install!
- Thread starter 04sleeper
- Start date
Love the controller for fuel system, install looks great man! Wait till you get to drive it
Well, I got a little more work done.
Took the back seat out and lowered the driver side tank just a little to give me some room to work. Under the seat you will find (2) large rubber grommets. The one on the drivers side is where the pump is located. The grommet just pulls off very easily. Then you will see this.
Seems a lot of the connectors Ford is using now have a safety latch. This one has the "Red" one you see here. You just slide it over and push the tab down to remove the connector.
The fuel line is secured using these tabs. I used a small screwdriver to remove these. The "Blue" one comes off first followed by the "White" one. Again, the Blue one being the safety clip.
The ring around the stock hat comes off pretty much like all Mustangs. Counter Clockwise with a screwdriver and a rubber mallet.
Once the ring is out of the way, you carefully lift the hat and disconnect the fuel lever arm. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to get it off. You have to "fish" it out as you are pulling the hat. It can damage very easily so you need to take extra caution when doing this!
Then you slowly work the hat out of the tank. You will then have to unhook the fuel cross over tube. This is only held on by 1 clip.
Once that is disconnected, you can get the hat out. Here is what the hat looks like for those that have not seen it.
You have to remove the fuel sending unit and transfer it over to the new hat.
It has a small tab that holds it on and it slides right off.
The new hat has is machined to accept the sending unit.
You will have to cut the plug off and install the supplied "Male" connectors to hook it to the wiring on the hat. Then you heat shrink the connectors and tie them with the supplied heast shrink and zip tie.
This shows how the float level goes when the hat goes back into the tank. You will lower them at the same time and snap the level back into place once in the tank.
Then you reinstall the hold down ring just like the stock hat was secured with. As you can see, I chose to "Bend" the opening a little on each side to help get the hold down ring in and out. I then tapped it back down before reinstalling the grommet.
There is a grommet that the stock wires pass through the I chose to reuse.
In order not to damage it, I just disassembled the factory plug. The "Teal" safety pops out with a small screwdriver and allows you to get to each wire. Small tabs hold each wire into the factory plug. You just slightly pry them away while pulling the wires out one by one.
I could have just cut the plug off, but I choose not to.
There is also a wire tab holder on the back side of the plug that can easily be removed with a small screwdriver as well.
With a little WD-40, the wires slide through no problem.
Well, that's all I finished for now. Next Up I will run the lines and mount the filter, regulator and rails.
Took the back seat out and lowered the driver side tank just a little to give me some room to work. Under the seat you will find (2) large rubber grommets. The one on the drivers side is where the pump is located. The grommet just pulls off very easily. Then you will see this.
Seems a lot of the connectors Ford is using now have a safety latch. This one has the "Red" one you see here. You just slide it over and push the tab down to remove the connector.
The fuel line is secured using these tabs. I used a small screwdriver to remove these. The "Blue" one comes off first followed by the "White" one. Again, the Blue one being the safety clip.
The ring around the stock hat comes off pretty much like all Mustangs. Counter Clockwise with a screwdriver and a rubber mallet.
Once the ring is out of the way, you carefully lift the hat and disconnect the fuel lever arm. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to get it off. You have to "fish" it out as you are pulling the hat. It can damage very easily so you need to take extra caution when doing this!
Then you slowly work the hat out of the tank. You will then have to unhook the fuel cross over tube. This is only held on by 1 clip.
Once that is disconnected, you can get the hat out. Here is what the hat looks like for those that have not seen it.
You have to remove the fuel sending unit and transfer it over to the new hat.
It has a small tab that holds it on and it slides right off.
The new hat has is machined to accept the sending unit.
You will have to cut the plug off and install the supplied "Male" connectors to hook it to the wiring on the hat. Then you heat shrink the connectors and tie them with the supplied heast shrink and zip tie.
This shows how the float level goes when the hat goes back into the tank. You will lower them at the same time and snap the level back into place once in the tank.
Then you reinstall the hold down ring just like the stock hat was secured with. As you can see, I chose to "Bend" the opening a little on each side to help get the hold down ring in and out. I then tapped it back down before reinstalling the grommet.
There is a grommet that the stock wires pass through the I chose to reuse.
In order not to damage it, I just disassembled the factory plug. The "Teal" safety pops out with a small screwdriver and allows you to get to each wire. Small tabs hold each wire into the factory plug. You just slightly pry them away while pulling the wires out one by one.
I could have just cut the plug off, but I choose not to.
There is also a wire tab holder on the back side of the plug that can easily be removed with a small screwdriver as well.
With a little WD-40, the wires slide through no problem.
Well, that's all I finished for now. Next Up I will run the lines and mount the filter, regulator and rails.
Amazing write up Kevin!
I concur great job
Making me want to get the twin kit instead lol.
You won't regret it. I know a lot of people seemed to complain about this single kit, but I've seen Kevin's car in person and we both talked to John Urist at SEMA in depth about this twin kit. The details and engineering that went into this kit is second to none and you can really tell they did while putting it together. As it goes together, you can see all the issues and items they had to engineer to make this kit go together so well. Instead of just cutting here, or hacking something up, Urist came up with real world solutions that makes it possible for just about anyone to install one of these kits on their car without heavy modifications. It's an amazing kit!
I can't wait to go for a ride in it! :banana:
Thanks Justin! :beer:
Thank you. :beer:
Just Do It! :rockon:
I will agree Steve. :beer:
OK. I got a little wiring done.
Mounted the 100 AMP inline fuse holder near the battery for safety and ease of accessibility.
I found a good use for the old "Sound Tube" hole in the firewall. I got a grommet from the auto parts store and ran the power wire and the Hobbs Switch wire through it to the back.
Once into the trunk, I found a suitable and accessible location to mount the FC3 Controller. I routed all the wires along with the factory routings.
Here you can see how the controller is wired. I still have to run the triggers and hook up the ground last. Since I am only running 2 pumps, I left "pump 3" unhooked.
Mounted the 100 AMP inline fuse holder near the battery for safety and ease of accessibility.
I found a good use for the old "Sound Tube" hole in the firewall. I got a grommet from the auto parts store and ran the power wire and the Hobbs Switch wire through it to the back.
Once into the trunk, I found a suitable and accessible location to mount the FC3 Controller. I routed all the wires along with the factory routings.
Here you can see how the controller is wired. I still have to run the triggers and hook up the ground last. Since I am only running 2 pumps, I left "pump 3" unhooked.
Thank you. I got a little more done today.
OK. Had a chance to run the feed and return lines today and mount the filter.
Over all, the new PTFE fittings were relatively easy to assemble.
Here is the new PTFE line with the black "Conductive Carbon" inner core. This is approved for air craft and will not degrade over time or cause static like other PTFE line.
First step is to pull back the stainless steel so you have room for the Olive connector.
Next I installed the Olive between the stainless and PTFE inner hose.
Then I put the end fitting into my soft jaws in my vise with very little pressure and pushed on the hose to the fitting.
Then I turned the hose so it was facing up in the vise and tightened the fitting down with a 7/8" socket and ratchet.
Next up was to mount the filter. The filter comes with self tapping screws, but the floor pan where I wanted to mount it was very thick. So I drilled and tapped it.
Here are the screws I used to secure it to the bottom of the car.
I decided to mount the filter right behind the rocker panel on the drivers side for easy serviceability.
Here are the hoses hooked up to the hat.
I just followed the factory routings for ease of installation. Here's where it runs down from the front corner of the tank.
There are two plastic factory guards under the car that help protect the lines and I chose to run the hose under like the factory. You can see where I ran the feed line out for the filter.
Here I used another supplied cushion clamp and ran the line back under the factory panel.
Here is where the lines runs up the inner wheel well following the factory lines.
Then up into the engine bay behind the drivers side strut tower. I taped off the ends so nothing would get into them.
For the regulator, I decided to fab up a quick mount to work with the mount on the regulator.
Since the sound tube was deleted, this left two existing holes for the bracket.
Now I just have to run the hoses to the rails and install the injectors! :-D
Coming along very nice, and great write up!
Subscribing. 
Thanks.
I received the final parts needed.
ID1000 Injectors. Thanks to Jared at Lethal! :rockon:
Also received my Peterson Fluid Systems catch can set up.
Thanks to my buddy Sergio "undfetd" and the guys at Power By The Hour! :thumbsup:
Misc bracket and fittings.
Hope to get this installed this weekend. :dancenana:
Damn, you're build just keeps on going. I can't imagine what your total bill is so far.
Thanks. Yes, it's the same one the CJ uses. Even the TT Cobra Jet as well.
I don't even want to think about it. LOL.
The "Olive" is like a Ferrule. It is a fitting that goes in between the stainless steel braid and PTFE hose used to seal the connection.
:rockon: looking good!
I received my fuel system!
Fore Fuel Hat with (2) Walbro 465 pumps.
It hooks up to the factory cross over.
I opted for the triple hat. This will allow me to add a third pump if I choose to later on. Also, you can see the new hats have no fuel hose in the tank. The pumps slide into "Modules" designed for each pump and are sealed with Viton O-Rings. You can see where the third pump is plugged off.
Here you can see where the wires are sealed as they go through the top hat.
Here is the fuel rail kit. Simply stunning!
I opted for the fuel filter with 10 micron stainless element and billet mount. This also comes with install screws and plug. A nice touch.
I also decided to get the fuel pressure gauge as well.
The system came with (4) 90* swivel fittings.
They seal with O-Rings.
Here you can see where the hose connects.
I am going with "New PTFE" -8 line with "Black" inner hose instead of the "White" clear. The white apparently can discharge small electrical "Arc's" over time which can cause small tiny pin holes over time. The new black is "Aircraft Approved".
For wiring I chose to go with the "FC3" controller. It allows very easy hook up and was specifically designed for this fuel system.
It comes with 4 Gauge wiring for power and ground.
It also comes with 100 AMP inline fuse.
Now I just have to install all this!
Has to be the HIGHEST Quality kit that ive ever had. I love mine, there not bulky but deff sturdy!
Here is where the motor sits now.
relocating the computer and stuff a PITA?
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