Tear Down Has Begun! Hellion TT Install!

StevenStarke

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Get the car hot at full operating temp. Disconnect oil return lines to pan. Cap bungs off at pan. Let return lines hang and let oil come out of them. Put measuring cups under them. Turn car on and let run for exactly 30 seconds and turn back off. Measure how much oil came out in that 30 seconds. 12 ounces (per turbo) is my magical number. John says 8-15 ounces is acceptable.

Call John and he'll send you a oil flow kit for free. Includes measuring cups and pan bung caps.


I spoke to John about this and he said it's not necessary? And he said his single kit came with instructions to do this, but the twin kit is fine as is?
 

D.T.R

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Yeah i've never seen or heard of anyone having to do that?
The turbos are mounted pretty high, which is great, so oil drainage shouldn't be an issue...
 

SignalZero

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Oil pressure on the newer cars with no piston oil squirters is higher than the previous engines. With no restrictors, the higher oil pressure seems to seep past the turbo seals while cold(too much pressure)...
 

slamdcoop0428

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It won't be enough to notice on low boost.


It will be negligible at low boost. I could really care less anyway. If I was maxing the turbos and system and trying to win an NMRA class, then I might worry. This is a street car. If I want the difference between the two, I can just turn it up another 1/4 lb of Boost.


Thanks. It is silly how quite it is!


Not yet. I do plan on it though.

Well on my car at 5.5 psi with a stainless works retro chamber cat back I made 526whp on BBRs dyno then Chris said that's not right I bet it's your cat back holding back some power. So we dropped the cat back off the back of my 3 ORX and made another pull with no changes a made 586whp I'd say that's pretty significant. So needless to say is I changed my cat back to something more free flowing.
 

D.T.R

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I'm thinking of running open mid pipe lol... (seriously)
Turbo cars are super quiet anyways... so i doubt it'd get that loud without over-the-axle & axle-back pipes
 

slamdcoop0428

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I'm thinking of running open mid pipe lol... (seriously)
Turbo cars are super quiet anyways... so i doubt it'd get that loud without over-the-axle & axle-back pipes

Well funny you say that. Until I figured out what I was going to do for a cat back I drove around for about a week with not cat back and just my x pipe. The turbos sounded so good it was insane. But it was still pretty loud under the car from the drone being right about where you sit.
 

StevenStarke

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If you have Ball Bearing turbos they are already on the turbo straight from precision. If you have JB turbos, than you shouldn't need restrictors. If you add them yourself, you run the risk of blowing the turbos and then precision isn't going to warranty them. Just install the kit as is.
 

D.T.R

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Well funny you say that. Until I figured out what I was going to do for a cat back I drove around for about a week with not cat back and just my x pipe. The turbos sounded so good it was insane. But it was still pretty loud under the car from the drone being right about where you sit.
oh that's it... now I'm going to have to just do this lol you got me sold lol
I did not receive any...

i believe they only include restrictors on 13'+
 

99riocobra

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If you have Ball Bearing turbos they are already on the turbo straight from precision. If you have JB turbos, than you shouldn't need restrictors. If you add them yourself, you run the risk of blowing the turbos and then precision isn't going to warranty them. Just install the kit as is.
Is this correct? Torchy needed restrictors as shown with his testing. My understanding is that they were including them now.
 

04sleeper

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Well on my car at 5.5 psi with a stainless works retro chamber cat back I made 526whp on BBRs dyno then Chris said that's not right I bet it's your cat back holding back some power. So we dropped the cat back off the back of my 3 ORX and made another pull with no changes a made 586whp I'd say that's pretty significant. So needless to say is I changed my cat back to something more free flowing.
So 60 HP with NO cat back. Either way it is still a moot point. It will make enough for me to keep the motor alive and in one piece until I swap it out. Then maybe I will look into a different axle back. Until then it's quiet.
 

Torchy

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I spoke to John about this and he said it's not necessary? And he said his single kit came with instructions to do this, but the twin kit is fine as is?

John knows his stuff but he'll tell ya you won't need em. BBR (who has done more installs than anyone else) will tell ya you should flow them. Really depends on what year your car is. Havnt really seen any 11-12's needing the restricters.

I believe it is only an issue on the newer cars without oil squirters.

Pretty much yes.

Oil pressure on the newer cars with no piston oil squirters is higher than the previous engines. With no restrictors, the higher oil pressure seems to seep past the turbo seals while cold(too much pressure)...

Bingo 100% correct. If you happen to have a loose coyote from the factory you might not need restricters.



If you have Ball Bearing turbos they are already on the turbo straight from precision. If you have JB turbos, than you shouldn't need restrictors. If you add them yourself, you run the risk of blowing the turbos and then precision isn't going to warranty them. Just install the kit as is.

Historically you are correct but as mentioned by signalzero you might need them (if 2013). As far as warranty is concerned, your warranty on your turbos is through hellion, not through Precision. If you need any turbo warranty work it has th go through Hellion. So running the restricters won't void it. Just don't call/tell precision about it. Take your turbo warranty needs to Hellion and let them deal with any hassles.


IMO on all this, if your a 13, put the kit on. If it smokes then your gonna need restricters. If not leave alone. Restricters are also going to be specific to your climate. If your always in cold then restrict less and vise versa. I'm in hot as hell Vegas and had to go to 35pills. 42 was still too much oil. I have now flowed my turbos 3 different times and have found that 12oz/30 seconds is the magic number.
 
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poof100

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Out of curiosity, what brand/weight Oil are you guys running on the 11/12 cars versus the 13s? What does your oil pressure look like while hot/load?

I'm running AMSOIL 10-30 Dominator Oil in my Turbo Boss.
 

SignalZero

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John knows his stuff but he'll tell ya you won't need em. BBR (who has done more installs than anyone else) will tell ya you should flow them. Really depends on what year your car is. Havnt really seen any 11-12's needing the restricters.



Pretty much yes.



Bingo 100% correct. If you happen to have a loose coyote from the factory you might not need restricters.





Historically you are correct but as mentioned by signalzero you might need them (if 2013). As far as warranty is concerned, your warranty on your turbos is through hellion, not through Precision. If you need any turbo warranty work it has th go through Hellion. So running the restricters won't void it. Just don't call/tell precision about it. Take your turbo warranty needs to Hellion and let them deal with any hassles.


IMO on all this, if your a 13, put the kit on. If it smokes then your gonna need restricters. If not leave alone. Restricters are also going to be specific to your climate. If your always in cold then restrict less and vise versa. I'm in hot as hell Vegas and had to go to 35pills. 42 was still too much oil. I have now flowed my turbos 3 different times and have found that 12oz/30 seconds is the magic number.

I appreciate the heads up on this stuff. I'll be sure to flow my kit. Couple hours worth of checking is worth the $ to save two turbos.
 

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