LMAO!!!! No thank you Brad. I lived in Tampa for 5 years and know all to well about swamp @$$ ROFLMAO!!
I'll keep my dry heat sir
....
Summer hot days and driving
- Thread starter TK1299
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LMAO!!!! No thank you Brad. I lived in Tampa for 5 years and know all to well about swamp @$$ ROFLMAO!!
I'll keep my dry heat sir
....What's the fuel system configured like? Including the gas cap and evap system.
Most newer OEM fuel caps are designed to relieve both positive and negative pressure beyond a certain threshold. If it's getting that much pressure it should be venting on its own. Otherwise it has to rely on the vent in the evap system, where hopefully your canister isn't plugged, and your vent valve (or any other valves the system utilizes) aren't stuck.
And as far as building that kind of pressure, the main mechanism (that you have control over) is going to be heat. Unless you've got your exhaust really close and right in front of it, the main source is going to be return fuel. Might be worth a look at where that could be getting heated, or installing a fuel cooler. High fuel temps will lead to not only lots of evaporation and pressure in the tank but can also cause cavitation issues in the fuel pumps and loss of fuel pressure as well.
The old foxes actually did have a drain hose from the filler neck area down to the back bumper.
lol I'm not sure if it will, I bought 2 different style of caps last night.
There is no EVAP in the car. The cap is the stock click style with a vent, which I verified the spring isn't stuck in it.
I ordered a new vent, I am thinking it's pressurizing so much/so fast that the internal check valve is getting lifted up and my intention is to initially tear apart the stock one and make sure it can't plug itself. Then I'll run a vent hose up into the trunk on a hanger, do 3-4 loops in it and have it feed into the gas door.
The exhaust is definitely a problem. I was able to cobble together an exhaust setup to feed away from the tank on the drivers side but with the panhard bar I can't get anything else on the passenger side so it has a dump before the rear axle. The tank is (at this point) half covered with heat shielding on the passenger side and I ordered some more to cover the rest.
I can't run any sort of fuel cooler in the class. It is definitely causing fueling issues when the tank heats up and I hit curbing, it will break up the engine, I gave up a second place finish because of it.
I don't & have never subscribed to the " park it for 5 months " theory. I maintain that it does more harm than good. If there is no snow & no salt, ( after a series of rain ), the car goes out..
.
Here in Minnesota we have salt on the roads for 5-6 months. So my cars stay put. The thing that harms them the most is just starting them periodically during the winter months.
I've let my cobra sit 5-6 months without starting it. Been doing this for the last 12 years with zero problems.
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I don’t think I’ve ever laughed so hard at such a messed up comment in my life. However that’s hilarious.
Totally different platform, I know, but I chased a fuel heat/tank pressurization issue for *years* and finally figured out that I was running too much pump. When I went down to a lower-volume pump, it didn't heat the fuel as much and the problem is almost totally gone now.
Holy shit? Really?
I don't think by the class rules we can run a different than stock pump. I'll have to read it again and see if there is an option but that's really good news if it's that easy.
Also, is this on your fox? The other SN guys don't have as bad of issues that I do, but they still do spit a little bit of fuel.
That's a really good point. It seems really dumb they won't let you run a fuel cooler, but if you can reduce flow you can reduce heat. Going one step further from downsizing your pump- have you considered going to a PWM (variable speed) pump? (i.e. the way Ford ran the returnless pumps) That will drastically reduce fuel tank temperatures and even a very minor bump to fuel economy. Even if you don't have the stock ECU or hardware to drive it, Fuelab makes a PWM controlled pump and the regulator has a controller that automatically commands the pump to maintain pressure. And if that's too intimidating, going to an internally regulated pump like GM uses would drop a good deal of weight and heat as well. Although that doesn't support manifold referenced pressure.
So many people I know go out in the garage and fire the car up and rev it for 2 minutes every weekend in the winter....
Yup, no shit. On the foxbody. I was running a 190lph, then a 155, and I think now I'm down to the stock pump. At one point many years ago they pulled my sticker and wouldn't let me back on track (not that I was going to anyway) and that was a *night* event. It was pissing fuel out the filler. Over the years, I tried the following and probably more:
- Wrapped the tailpipes near the tank
- Ditched the tailpipes
- re-routed the fuel lines
- wrapped the fuel lines anywhere near a heat source
- added shielding to the tank where the tailpipes run and reinstalled them
- added more, better shielding
- Reversed the vapor valve so it wouldn't tend to lock closed when hit with pressure
- ran about 12 feet of vent line into a catch can
- etc etc etc
Finally learned or realized that the fuel is the pump's coolant. Which made sense, because the problem was always way worse the lower the fuel level got. That's when I started downsizing the pumps back to stock or close to stock levels and I rarely get much of an issue anymore. It'll still hiss at me when I undo the cap sometimes but it's not pissing fuel all over anymore.
Early morning or late-night cruise by the coast is nice for me before the heat of the day.
I have to say there is a good side about cruising in south Florida, few mouths out of the year when the temps dep into the 60's
Gota love that free HP . LOL
That’s a fact sir! It helps on the track that’s for sure, doesn’t do me much good on the streets however. Tires don’t get warm enough hah. I enjoy the hellcat for work, and cruise the others at night because it’s more spirited driving. Having an automatic for work is awesome, to much stop and go for me.
How would anyone ever know what in-tank pump you are running short of measuring pressure?
Some people never learn.
I found out the hard way many years ago. With all the humidity change from winter to spring I'd get so much condensation on everything. My old 91 mustang had ever nut and bolt in the engine bay turn to rust.
Not to mention that a warm engine bay invites critters in looking for a warm place.
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Lots of weak in this thread.
I lived in the Colorado desert where it was 107 and the high altitude sun adds 25F of radiant heat, driving a 92 Tercel with the only accessory was power brakes. I beat the snot out of that 250K mile car. Cars love heat. It was fine.
I lived in North Dakota, starting my 89 5.0 when it was -50F and waiting for the engaged but slipping clutch to generate enough heat and friction to move the car at just a few miles an hour for the first mike or so. It was fine.
In either case, the car didn't give shit about the weather, and did just fine.
I lived in the Colorado desert where it was 107 and the high altitude sun adds 25F of radiant heat, driving a 92 Tercel with the only accessory was power brakes. I beat the snot out of that 250K mile car. Cars love heat. It was fine.
I lived in North Dakota, starting my 89 5.0 when it was -50F and waiting for the engaged but slipping clutch to generate enough heat and friction to move the car at just a few miles an hour for the first mike or so. It was fine.
In either case, the car didn't give shit about the weather, and did just fine.
LoL.
I lived in Colorado and Minnesota. Minnesota gets just as cold as the Dakota's. How long have you dealt with their winters? I lived in Minnesota for 30 years and counting.
I can tell you cars do NOT operate the same in extreme cold weather.
Next you'll tell us you drove your 89 5.0 in a blizzard with 2 feet of snow and wind gusts in excess of 40 mph..
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The main reason I could manage the 5.0 in Fargo is it was flat as could be. It was my only car way back then, so I drove it everywhere whenever I needed to. It handled the cold starts a bit better than my prior carb'd cars did, but I made them all work. The main problems I've had with the cold is batteries. The electronics in my more recent RS5 flaked out at -35F, but it started and moved out no problem.
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It's been 95-105 here in SoCal for about 2 weeks.
I still drive my twin turbo mustang to work with AC cranking at least 3 days a week, 52 miles round trip.
Car has a 5" thick large core/small fin intercooler in front of the radiator and even in 100* outside temps, my ECTs won't go over 205 or so, most often around 198-200 degrees.
Drive the cars bro!!!
I still drive my twin turbo mustang to work with AC cranking at least 3 days a week, 52 miles round trip.
Car has a 5" thick large core/small fin intercooler in front of the radiator and even in 100* outside temps, my ECTs won't go over 205 or so, most often around 198-200 degrees.
Drive the cars bro!!!
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