I appreciate the advice. I just keep thinking if I dump it I'm going to take a $10k bath and then just end up with another pile of shit.
Just got a Terminator, and 68 Miles later it's broke.
- Thread starter Corbic
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I appreciate the advice. I just keep thinking if I dump it I'm going to take a $10k bath and then just end up with another pile of shit.
You didn't happen to disconnect the battery somewhere in that tank of gas did you? Have you noticed your gauges sweeping at start up?
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I don't understand what you are asking.
Are you asking if the cluster (and fuel gauge) sweep at key-on or start-up?
No they do not. They power on with Key-on, so the fuel gauge goes from "below empty" to wherever the fuel level is.
I've never seen a NE car have swept gauges.
As for battery discount, no. The car is not feasting the odometer. The fuel is going somewhere unless 7-10mpg is expected in casual driving with 2-3 quick pulls (see video for example) per tank.
^^ more like 4-5 mpg.
Something is not right (obviously).
Something is not right (obviously).
You don't think 10.0 air fuel is okay, do you?
Additionally, that gauge bottoms out at 10.0, so you're likely richer.
Additionally, that gauge bottoms out at 10.0, so you're likely richer.
But that was letting off into neutral and just coasting. It returned to 14-15. It dumped fuel. My previous car would do that as well and I never had an issue like this.
Are you just eyeballing the gauge while driving or are you truly datalogging to a storage device? You need a datalog, and with all the relevant parameters in addition to air fuel.
I'm in Mishawaka if you want a second hand or set of eyes
If the gauges sweep at start up then it means the battery has been disconnected and they're resetting themselves. If they do it and you haven't disconnected the battery then your battery is on its way out.
The reason I asked is if you saw the sweep then the trip odometer is being reset when you start the car. Same with disconnecting the battery. I've had times I disconnected the battery for some work and forgot. Then freaked out when I checked my trip odometer when filling up.
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i propose that selling it will likely end up costing more than fixing it, unless the plan is to be dishonest with the buyer.
I'm unfortunately to harsh a critic on cars and would be an overly honest seller.
So with 40k miles, mediocre paint, mint interior, and assuming good compression... What's it worth? 18k?
I have $5k into it and paid well over that.... So yeah, $10k bath. Then buy another for $20-25k?
So that's another $2k-5k into it...
Or just build a V6?
Either way I'll be flushing money.
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right. i hope it didn't come across as if i thought you would misrepresent the car...just the opposite in fact.
cars don't get haunted. just because you've had some problems with a car, it doesn't mean that it's never going to be able to be dependable again. if you buy a 13+ year old sports/muscle/performance car, you should go into it assuming that the absolute worst things possible will happen, and soon.
i see people always talking about "these cars get beat on" and so forth, as if any one of use bought ours without solid intentions of beating on them. that's what they're for.
i know for a fact that the guy that traded mine in (for an impala SS no less LOL) did so because he didn't want to put another transmission in it. i also know that the clutch wasn't fully releasing, (due to an improperly adjusted clutch cable) which is what nerfed the transmission. the point is, whether by intent or just plain ignorance, the trans was abused...which is exactly what we should expect on the whole car.
the only way to buy a fast car with a guarantee that it hasn't been run hard and put up wet is to buy one brand new. otherwise you should be ready to foot the bill for some repairs.
cars don't get haunted. just because you've had some problems with a car, it doesn't mean that it's never going to be able to be dependable again. if you buy a 13+ year old sports/muscle/performance car, you should go into it assuming that the absolute worst things possible will happen, and soon.
i see people always talking about "these cars get beat on" and so forth, as if any one of use bought ours without solid intentions of beating on them. that's what they're for.
i know for a fact that the guy that traded mine in (for an impala SS no less LOL) did so because he didn't want to put another transmission in it. i also know that the clutch wasn't fully releasing, (due to an improperly adjusted clutch cable) which is what nerfed the transmission. the point is, whether by intent or just plain ignorance, the trans was abused...which is exactly what we should expect on the whole car.
the only way to buy a fast car with a guarantee that it hasn't been run hard and put up wet is to buy one brand new. otherwise you should be ready to foot the bill for some repairs.
You have gone to far to run now. Get the car correct and hopefully you can enjoy it for many years. If I had read these horror story threads before searching for my Cobra, I am not so sure I would have bought my car with out a lot more skepticism and due diligence.
wait a ****ing second - so if your battery sweeps when you start the car, what does it mean?
I'm assuming you mean the gauges. In my experience it ment the battery was on its way out. But I've heard of people having bad connections to the cluster as well. Power or ground.
I had assumed it was Fords way of telling you the power had been disconnected.
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gauges i mean. I've never heard that before. That's awesome
Bad battery or connection.
Battery and connectors are new. I’m not having a reset problem. Going to do a leak down or compression test tonight.
I really hope your leak down and compression tests tonight are good. You could use some good news.
Perfect excuse to build a teksid block with stage 3 cams
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