Just got a Terminator, and 68 Miles later it's broke.

Corbic

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Not in the great nation of Texas you won't...but you would need to check with your state's emissions requirements

It looks SO much cleaner underhood with the egr deleted

Well I currently don't have emissions but I keep kicking the idea of moving to Texas or Arizona.
 

Corbic

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Well I have an electrical drain somewhere.

4ED62498-FF39-434A-B566-EE41F8A2F794_zpspsnpfg8u.jpg


Car has sat since Sunday and is so dead it won't light the dash.

Turn signal seems to be making a clicking sound too...


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CobraBob

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Man, your Terminator by far has experienced the most issues in the span of less than a year of ownership than any other I can recall. I really feel bad for you. Hope you get this electrical gremlin corrected very soon.
 

MG0h3

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The turn signal flasher will make noise; sometimes more or erratically when the batt voltage is very low.

Is that a voltage tester in the cig lighter? That doesnt tell you any more info that turning the key and getting a no crank. You may have nothing more than a dirty/poor connection at the batt terminal.
 

Corbic

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Man, your Terminator by far has experienced the most issues in the span of less than a year of ownership than any other I can recall. I really feel bad for you. Hope you get this electrical gremlin corrected very soon.

I eagerly look forward to melting a piston, tossing a rod or the KB grinding itself into oblivion this summer.
 

Corbic

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The struggle continues.

Replaced the Positive Terminal to make everyone happy.

Pulled the negative and put the car on the trickle charger for two days.

Running, the car shows 14.3 Volts. Off, key out, the cigarette lighter still powers the meter and shoes 13.2 volts.

Hmmm....

I've negative off, testing at 20 amps and connecting the battery negative to the ground wire I'm pulling an average of 13.2 volts...

Hmmmm

I have now pulled every single fuse (engine bay and under steering wheel) and tested. It remains at 13 volts.

In plugged the cigarette lighter and pulled the stereo.

13.2 volts.

I unplugged the two step, maf, iat sensor and Mach Amps....

13.2


Sigh




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Corbic

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Is the forum still broke?!!!

Anyway, I'm an idiot.

I was testing volts and I know I should have been testing amps.

Car is drawing .140 amps from fuse #39, GEM (Generic Electronics Module).

Factory spec is a draw of .050

I've found lots threads about people having the same issue with draws of .150 to .220. None of the threads ended with anyone resolving their issue.

Some did say a draw of .150 should deplete the battery after 3 weeks of storage. I could live with that but I'd rather fix it.


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hotcobra03

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The struggle continues.

Replaced the Positive Terminal to make everyone happy.



Pulled the negative and put the car on the trickle charger for two days.

Running, the car shows 14.3 Volts. Off, key out, the cigarette lighter still powers the meter and shoes 13.2 volts.

Hmmm....

I've negative off, testing at 20 amps and connecting the battery negative to the ground wire I'm pulling an average of 13.2 volts...

Hmmmm

I have now pulled every single fuse (engine bay and under steering wheel) and tested. It remains at 13 volts.

In plugged the cigarette lighter and pulled the stereo.

13.2 volts.

I unplugged the two step, maf, iat sensor and Mach Amps....

13.2


Sigh




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I just stumbled on issues with ground wire on mine..

The alt upgraded wiring shows bigger ground under car. .

I had just changed the small grounder from negative terminal to radiator support. .

I have a 6g wire to put on(walmart battery section 4 bucks)..right now I just have a few twisted solid copper wires.

I was also seeing lower volts in car vs battery ..

I'm now 14 to 14.5 in car
 

MG0h3

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I think youre ok man. The car has to use some power for keep alive memory. I know you just replaced the battery but otherwise I would suggest that.
 

Corbic

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Errr my gawwwd!!

I need my own TV series.

Jack's Jacked Up Cars!

So on today's episode, I gave up hunting for the mystery drain.
Car sat over night and fired up perfect.

I then replace the rear pads, change the transfluid and add some more sound deadening to help with the rattles. I also glued the AC vents to the center stack since the plastic welds are super lose and squeaky.

Go to take the car out....

It's either got an exhaust leak or is missing a cylinder. No codes, it just sounds like a Subaru.

AFRs seem normal.

I wonder if it has something to do with the two step since that is no longer working. (Held clutch in and revs freely now).

Ugh I'm done for the day.


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Wings65288

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How does she feel when you rip on her, or can u right now


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UncleSAm

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if your car is giving you click than dead, its bad ground, honestly i would look up the "big 3" wire upgrade, alternator to fuse box, engine ground wire and negative terminal to radiator support. will also increase the life of the alternator that our cars are known for being short

car looks like its giving you hell, well just be happy its in the hand of a good person and eventually it'll all be good. and you'll have a big smile on your face. just keep working it. one inch at a time

my car ended up being the negative terminal ground was bad
 

Corbic

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if your car is giving you click than dead, its bad ground, honestly i would look up the "big 3" wire upgrade, alternator to fuse box, engine ground wire and negative terminal to radiator support. will also increase the life of the alternator that our cars are known for being short

car looks like its giving you hell, well just be happy its in the hand of a good person and eventually it'll all be good. and you'll have a big smile on your face. just keep working it. one inch at a time

my car ended up being the negative terminal ground was bad


Thanks man. I'll add it to the list!

I yanked the EGR system last night. Easy job thanks to the aftermarket K-member. It would have been impossible with the Basani Mid-Length Headers and the factory K-member.

Actually, this K-member is a gift from God. I'd have gladly paid +500 for the SN95/NE Cars to come with this from the factory. Hell, manufacturing wise, factor in tooling costs for the stamped cross member, it would have been maybe $50-100 more.

I have some pro-forged extended ball joints and camber plates to install. I also want to clean up the engine bay a bit more. But, its super nice this weekend (70!?!?) I think I'm just gonna wash and wax the car and take a drive up through Michigan.
 

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