Interest check for GB for Racebronco heat extractor style hoods!

[SVT_Troy]

here is mine. the bottom (toward the rear of the car) is flush with the fiberglass underneath. the top (part closest towards the front of the car) has maybe an 1/8?" overlap of the striker until it reaches the fiberblass

I do not like how this looks and it would bother me.

Steve do the latch kits come pre installed or will it be on me to fit and rivet it in?

 

[94slowbra1]

here is a pic of what mine looks like when the latch hook is contacting the striker plate. not a very easy pic to take but you can see that the hook is contacting the striker on both sides. this stops the hook from going in. i need to push down on the passenger side of the hood a little to make the hood tilt in order for the hook to pass the striker. i dont see any other way to remedy this except to grind the latch hook (like john m has suggested) or the striker. personally id rather do the hook. if i mess up i can find another one much easier and cheaper than trying to fix the hood

 

[joshcarp81]

Yep. I'll agree the easier way is the hook.

 

[joshcarp81]

I want to apologize to everyone having these problems as well. I just don't understand how I can install the same parts as everyone else and they are all different.....

 

[John M]

I ended up taking about a 1/4 off the back of the hook

 

[John M]

no worries the hoods are awesome

 

[94slowbra1]

No apologies needed. I didn't mean for it to come off that way, was just pointing out what's going on with mine.
Actually I'd like to thank you, Steve and everyone else that made this happen. you stepped up to help everybody out. A little grinding isn't going to hurt anything. Beats the hell out of not having a striker all together.

 

[joshcarp81]

Thanks much appreciated.....if someone decides they need more of something let me know I can have more made.

 

[WannaWhine]

If I'm considering the flush mounted hood pins, should I keep using the stock latch setup?

 

[joshcarp81]

I don't see why it wouldn't hurt to still use it. Don't see why you would have to use it either if you chose to go that route.

 

[94slowbra1]

To me using the factory latch plus the hood pins would be the best, just one more attachment point

 

[94slowbra1]

i worked on the latch today. used a hand file and took just enough off so it slides in nice and easy. honestly you would never notice unless you knew it was there. very easy to. now i need to work on the hood struts

 

[SVT_Troy]

i worked on the latch today. used a hand file and took just enough off so it slides in nice and easy. honestly you would never notice unless you knew it was there. very easy to. now i need to work on the hood struts

When you file of the required amount to fit this hood does/will it affect the oem hood staying latched?

 

[94slowbra1]

I'll take a pic of mine tonight and you can see how little it really is. I have zero worries.

 

[joshcarp81]

Which hood struts do you have? I ended up calling met and told them the weight of the hood and they sent me out replacements.

 

[N/Angel]

am I going to need new hood struts? I have the regular redlines.

 

[94slowbra1]

Redlines here too. I have a call into them to see

 

[joshcarp81]

The factory rated mrt ones were too strong and had to put way too much force to close it.

 

[UncleSAm]

What lb struts did you get

 

[joshcarp81]

I wasn't even going to try it I put one on and it was ridiculous to try to close. They'll sell u just the struts. At least MRT did.