Interest check for GB for Racebronco heat extractor style hoods!

WannaWhine

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I'may going to have to wait a while due to my work schedule but I cannot wait.

I plan on leaving my full CF hood unpainted, because it goes with my yellow and black theme and I love carbon fiber up close.

My car will rarely be outside for any length of time but I'm worried about my hood. What do I need to know to take a proper care of my hood versus the elements?
 

John M

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from what every body has said its cleared but depending on the type of clear?. if it starts to yellow you can sand it and re-clear it, I forgot what page 10 maybe, hopefully that helps
 

UncleSAm

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So the striker hole width is 1 1/2 oem and my hood the 50/50 is about 1 3/8 carefully setting the hood down on the safety latch are a bit wide for the hole I am going to grind the back down an 1/8

That's exactly what I did and works fine for me
 

WannaWhine

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from what every body has said its cleared but depending on the type of clear?. if it starts to yellow you can sand it and re-clear it, I forgot what page 10 maybe, hopefully that helps

Excellent, thanks! My car in general, never sees the light of day but after waiting for this hood I'm going to treat it like a queen!
 

WannaWhine

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Anyone else super pumped about getting their hoods. Post some pics up. I'd like to see some painted ones.

I'm jumping with joy, myself. However, I have to try and time the shipment of the hood with the rare times at home so I'm waiting a couple more weeks to even have it shipped out.

No paint here. Went full CF and hoping it will go well with the black and yellow car.
 

94slowbra1

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so i received my hood a couple of weeks ago. fit and finish is very good for an aftermarket hood. just like everything it took a little adjusting to fit perfect, but that was easy. i did remove the factory spring and replaced with a lighter spring. may still need to play with this as the one i have now may be too light. i also need to do the "hood latch mod" as its isnt to easy to close.
the only downside i have found is that its light, maybe too light. it doesnt feel as stable when latched as the factory hood does. im considering doing hood pins to help make sure it stays down at high speeds (ive got some 1/2 mile events coming up soon). if i do the hood pins im looking at the aero catch ones, much sleeker design than the normal rod sticking up. plus on a black car most people would probably not notice them
overall extremely happy with the hood. i havent noticed that it keeps the underhood temps any cooler but it does recover much quicker when warm. right now its all carbon fiber but will most likely be painted black.
 

John M

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sorry 94slowbra1 I can send you a pic, I just unbolted the hood latch and put it in a vice and ground 1/4 off the back side, you can measure you hood opening and measure your hook and see if you have to take the same amount off
 

94slowbra1

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sorry 94slowbra1 I can send you a pic, I just unbolted the hood latch and put it in a vice and ground 1/4 off the back side, you can measure you hood opening and measure your hook and see if you have to take the same amount off

thanks for the response, looking forward to the pic. my striker is riveted to the hood?
 

SlowSVT

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so i received my hood a couple of weeks ago. fit and finish is very good for an aftermarket hood. just like everything it took a little adjusting to fit perfect, but that was easy. i did remove the factory spring and replaced with a lighter spring. may still need to play with this as the one i have now may be too light. i also need to do the "hood latch mod" as its isnt to easy to close.
the only downside i have found is that its light, maybe too light. it doesnt feel as stable when latched as the factory hood does. im considering doing hood pins to help make sure it stays down at high speeds (ive got some 1/2 mile events coming up soon). if i do the hood pins im looking at the aero catch ones, much sleeker design than the normal rod sticking up.

Have you made a high speed run to see how the hood behaves at top speed? There will be so much "air bleed" on this hood I don't see it being a problem but stranger things have happened.

Good call on painting the CF.
 

94slowbra1

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i have not yet. but a hood flying up is not something i think im willing to take a chance on. plus by the time it happens its too late.
i do understand that this hood is meant to pull air, create a vacuum and create downforce. just dont want to destroy the hood/car testing it out
 

SlowSVT

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i have not yet. but a hood flying up is not something i think im willing to take a chance on. plus by the time it happens its too late.
i do understand that this hood is meant to pull air, create a vacuum and create downforce. just dont want to destroy the hood/car testing it out


That 1/2 mile run won't be very satisfying with a self imposed speed limit.

Hood pins are a good idea with lightweight hoods regardless. They have flush ones that will "disappear" against black.
 

94slowbra1

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thats the ones i would go with, the more unnoticeable the better.
here are a few pics of it installed
IMG_20160623_244555707.jpg

IMG_20160623_244609936.jpg

IMG_20160623_244632001.jpg

IMG_20160623_244651623.jpg

IMG_20160623_244733739.jpg

IMG_20160623_091030737.jpg
 

joshcarp81

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Wowsers. On my hood which I pulled all measurements from those c shaped backer plates are actually flush with the dress plate. I made the plates slightly larger than the overall latch size so no one would have to do this. My guess is they didn't seat the back up plate far enough over the the sides of the latch hole.
If anyone else runs into this problem call me before you do anything to your latch itself.
740threeoneseven9434.

An easier fix that'll look much better would be to drill the head of the rivets out removing the big plate. Then look at backer plates. I'm sure what I said earlier is the problem.
So I would drill the rivets all the way out and slide the plates til they completely seat against the opening walls.
Like I said the backer plates should be at least flush with the finish plate.
 

John M

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IMO either way your going to have to modify the latch, I could take a better pic but drilling the rivets would not do anything (the plate is flush with one side. all your doing is removing the cover, essentially you would have to ( drill the rivets, remove the plate, remove the plastic covers, cut and grind the fiberglass back to the width of the cover plate and the latch, then reinstall plate with new rivets.) This is JMO grinding the latch wasn't bad and took me about 5 min to do and maybe a little more to clean and paint but to do what I think you are saying would take awhile to do +if your going to paint over what you had to cut out to center the cover plate on the bottom side of the hood.
 
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