So you ground down the hook itself right? And left the striker on the hood untouched?
Interest check for GB for Racebronco heat extractor style hoods!
- Thread starter Steve@TF
- Start date
So you ground down the hook itself right? And left the striker on the hood untouched?
Trust me here, they did something wrong.
I designed the latch setup for the hoods. The backup plates should be flush with the finish plate.
Yes you will have to drill the rivets all the way out.
I specified if you removed the dress plate you would see what I was talking about. I'll take a pic of mine installed so u can see.
There is no plastic in the latch pieces. All three pieces are stainless steel you should not be able to see the backup plates if the latches were installed properly is what I am getting at.
You guys handle it how you want.
I was just saying to make it look right and be right that's how you go about doing it as it was designed
I designed the latch setup for the hoods. The backup plates should be flush with the finish plate.
Yes you will have to drill the rivets all the way out.
I specified if you removed the dress plate you would see what I was talking about. I'll take a pic of mine installed so u can see.
There is no plastic in the latch pieces. All three pieces are stainless steel you should not be able to see the backup plates if the latches were installed properly is what I am getting at.
You guys handle it how you want.
I was just saying to make it look right and be right that's how you go about doing it as it was designed
I set it up so u wouldn't have to modify the latch.
Mines the same way and mine was the first to be installed and installed by me not the shop., both of the c clips are resting on the edge of the fiberglass hole, and the outer striker plate sits just how the picture does, to make them sit flush we all would have to remove the rivets and cut away at fiberglass to make the opening bigger for the latch until it equal the size of the opening of the striker plate.
Think most people would just cut down the latch vs cutting the hood and drilling the rivets out
So pretty much what John said in post #500
On a side note Ima drill mine out and counter sink the rivets
Think most people would just cut down the latch vs cutting the hood and drilling the rivets out
So pretty much what John said in post #500
On a side note Ima drill mine out and counter sink the rivets
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I'm not being an *** I'm just saying grinding the latch is really the easiest option ( and your not losing any structural integrity and or holding strength), my hood the plastic c clips are all the way back that's what I meant when I said I can take a better pic but drilling and removing the plate, I don't need to I can see that they are set right and the only way there going back any more is if you grind it down. I'm not disagreeing with you by any means that the right way is to remove the plate and grind the fiberglass etc. my car is a race car and if it were a show car I don't think anyone will notice my latch is missing 1/4, 2 of my friends that own similar cars (03 mach) and an (04 cobra) didn't notice it until I showed them
No prob, hope I didn't come across that way either. It just bugs me for how much time I have in the strike plates that they aren't perfect. I hoped they would all come out as good as mine......but I guess that's out of my hands when someone else installed them across the country.
I see several comments about getting the CF painted. Is there a legitimate reason for doing this or just because people don't care for the appearence of CF?
I'm genuinely excited about how this hood will look on my car in its beautiful naked form, but the comments are making me nervous, lol.
I'm curious about the latch situation but by the time I get my hood in Alaska, the car won't be going out again so I'll have all winter to mess with it.
I'm genuinely excited about how this hood will look on my car in its beautiful naked form, but the comments are making me nervous, lol.
I'm curious about the latch situation but by the time I get my hood in Alaska, the car won't be going out again so I'll have all winter to mess with it.
For reference.
i love the look of CF but i also like a uniform look. mine will be black but i will most probably leave the vents CF. my only reason is so it doesn't look unfinished.
ill have to go take a closer look at striker plate. if it looks like it could be moved i may consider that but it does seem like grinding the latch would be the easiest option. i understand josh's frustration though
ill have to go take a closer look at striker plate. if it looks like it could be moved i may consider that but it does seem like grinding the latch would be the easiest option. i understand josh's frustration though
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Uncle Sam.
I'm just saying that I didn't grind anything. All i did was filed the inside corners of the hoods fiberglass or carbon fiber corners to get rid of the radius so the backup plates would sit all the way against the edge of the hoods opening.
I talked to Steve about this initially and he said that E.D. wouldn't want to do that so I made the backup plates a little narrower to address this.
As u can see my plate still isn't riveted on but there are even margins around the perimeter and the backup plates are centered not offset.
I'm just saying that I didn't grind anything. All i did was filed the inside corners of the hoods fiberglass or carbon fiber corners to get rid of the radius so the backup plates would sit all the way against the edge of the hoods opening.
I talked to Steve about this initially and he said that E.D. wouldn't want to do that so I made the backup plates a little narrower to address this.
As u can see my plate still isn't riveted on but there are even margins around the perimeter and the backup plates are centered not offset.
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hmmm.... yeah that seems like its over too much or something. shouldnt look like that.
it is tough trying to have them retro fit a part made by someone else on the other side of the country. and i havent seen any of their installed latch kits yet till you posted that pic.
as josh said, it is easy enough to drill the rivet out. you just drill the head and the rest will fall off. then adjust it to your liking and re-rivet it in place.
or you can grind your hook as john mentioned.
that looks perfect.
on the hood i have here and one of the final latch kits. it doesnt sit that perfect. you can see the rolled edges much easier. ill see if i can snap a pic later
Weird......
I don't know why it would be that far off. It would bug the crap out of me if it were mine.....
I haven't finished mine yet as a new clutch, input shaft, etc. Along with wideband, aeroforce gauge, Ford racing diff cover along with bushings and a shit ton of under car detailing has had me tied up for all of the last couple months. All will be done this weekend though!
I don't know why it would be that far off. It would bug the crap out of me if it were mine.....
I haven't finished mine yet as a new clutch, input shaft, etc. Along with wideband, aeroforce gauge, Ford racing diff cover along with bushings and a shit ton of under car detailing has had me tied up for all of the last couple months. All will be done this weekend though!
I'll get a pic of mine to see what you guys think
did you personally make them a little narrower or ask the shop to? the reason i ask is because they dont seem narrower.
that's how mine looks, did you measure the width like I did on mine (measure the latch from the hook to the back of the hook squared up), on mine it was about 1/4 short on the striker compared to the latch
here is mine. the bottom (toward the rear of the car) is flush with the fiberglass underneath. the top (part closest towards the front of the car) has maybe an 1/8?" overlap of the striker until it reaches the fiberblass
Shop did according to their notes. You know how that goes...... but I received the same parts as you did in the final batch
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