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How To: MMR Billet Oil Pump Gear's Install. **A FEW PICS**

Discussion in 'How-To' started by [email protected], Feb 9, 2014.

  1. Blazer707@TBR

    [email protected] Master Ford Tech Authorized Vendor

    Messages:
    4,313
    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2012
    Location:
    Bay Area
    Ok picked up a set of MMR's Hurricane Billet oil pump gears when they where having there special promo last month. Let me start this off by saying the only reason why I choose to do these gears now is because I am going FI in the next few weeks.

    GENERAL LIST OF TOOLS NEEDED:
    CLEAN DRAIN PAN (TO REUSE COOLANT)
    DIRTY DRAIN PAN (IF CHANGING ENGINE OIL)
    8MM SHALLOW AND DEEP SOCKETS
    9MM SHALLOW SOCKET (FOR 1 STUD ON OIL PUMP ASSEMBLY)
    10MM SHALLOW AND DEEP SOCKETS
    13MM SHALLOW AND DEEP SOCKETS
    15MM SHALLOW AND DEEP SOCKETS
    18MM 1/2 SOCKET (FOR CRANK PULLEY BOLT)
    19MM WRENCH OF SOCKET (FOR RADIATOR COOLANT DRAIN VALVE)
    2 OR 3 JAW PULLER (TO REMOVE CRANK PULLEY)
    10MM RATCHETING WRENCH
    10MM COMBO WRENCH
    SMALL-MEDIUM PRY BARS
    PLIERS FOR RADIATOR HOSES
    VARIOUS PICKS FOR CLIPS
    BENDABLE MAGNET
    RAZOR BLADE/SCRAPER (FOR SILICONE)
    CAULKING GUN (FOR TA-30 SILICONE)
    TRIM PANEL TOOL (FOR ALL THE WIRING PUSH PINS)
    MMR HARMONIC BALANCER INSTALL BOLT ( FOR $13.99 YOU CANT GO WRONG)

    PARTS/MATERIALS NEEDED:
    LEFT SIDE FRONT COVER GASKET BR3Z-6020-B
    RIGHT SIDE FRONT COVER GASKET BR3Z-6020-D
    MIDDLE TOP FRONT COVER GASKET BR3Z-6020-C
    RH VALVE COVER GASKET BR3Z-6584-D
    LH VALVE COVER GASKET BR3Z-6584-A
    FRONT CRANKSHAFT SEAL XW4Z-6700-B
    CRANKSHAFT TTY BOLT BR3Z-6A340-A
    THERMOSTAT HOUSING O-RING 7T4Z-8590-A
    TA-30 SILICONE (THIS WILL BE IN A TUBE FOR A CAULKING GUN)
    BRAKE CLEAN
    SHOP RAGS
    8-8.5 QTS OF OIL
    OIL FILTER
    PATIENCE


    THE START:
    [​IMG]
    20140208_083550 by spaded707, on Flickr


    STEP 1:
    DISCONNECT BATTERY AND REMOVE BATTERY AND TRAY.
    3 8MM BOLTS UNDER BATTERY AND THEN IT COMES OUT.
    [​IMG]
    20140208_084426 by spaded707, on Flickr



    STEP 2:
    REMOVE UNDERSHIELD AND DRAIN ENGINE COOLANT (19MM DRAIN VALVE)
    [​IMG]
    20140208_084712 by spaded707, on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    20140208_085208 by spaded707, on Flickr


    STEP 3:
    DISCONNECT PCV LINE TO RH VALVE COVER, REMOVE COIL COVER, DISCONNECT BOTH VCT SOLINOIDS ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS, DISCONNECT ALL 4 IGNITION COILS AND ALL 4 8MM BOLTS AND REMOVE ALL 4 IGNITION COILS. THEN REMOVE ALL 14 OF THE 10MM VALVE COVER BOLTS AND REMOVE RH VALVE COVER. (YOU WILL HAVE TO PULL SLIGHTLY HARDER THEN YOU THINK, THE VCT SOLINOID SEALS HOLD THE VALVE COVER ON TIGHT)
    [​IMG]
    20140208_085523 by spaded707, on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    20140208_085652 by spaded707, on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    20140208_085934 by spaded707, on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    20140208_090004 by spaded707, on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    20140208_091157 by spaded707, on Flickr



    STEP 4:
    REMOVE AIR INTAKE ASSEMBLY, REMOVE CANISTER PURGE VALVE LINE, REMOVE OIL DIPSTICK, REMOVE BOTH VCT SOLINOIDS ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS, DISCONNECT ALL 4 IGNITION COILS AND ALL 4 8MM BOLTS AND REMOVE ALL 4 IGNITION COILS. THEN REMOVE ALL 14 10MM VALVE COVER BOLTS AND REMOVE LH VALVE COVER. (AGAIN YOU WILL HAVE TO PULL SLIGHTLY HARDER THEN YOU THINK, THE VCT SOLINOID SEALS HOLD THE VALVE COVER ON TIGHT)
    [​IMG]
    20140208_091455 by spaded707, on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    20140208_091505 by spaded707, on Flickr


    **WARNING** BE CAREFULLY WHEN PULLING UP LH VALVE COVER THE OIL LEVEL DIPSTICK TUBE IS A BRITTLE PLASTIC AND CAN BREAK.
    [​IMG]
    20140208_093838 by spaded707, on Flickr


    STEP 5:
    REMOVE OEM TOP RADIATOR SHROUD, REMOVE BOTH 10MM BOLTS FOR DEGAS BOTTLE, REMOVE BOTH SMALLER COOLANT LINES TO DEGAS BOTTLE, REMOVE BOTTOM COOLANT HOSE TO DEGAS BOTTLE. REMOVE DEGAS BOTTLE.
    [​IMG]
    20140208_095252 by spaded707, on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    20140208_095643 by spaded707, on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    20140208_100148 by spaded707, on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    20140208_101226 by spaded707, on Flickr


    STEP 6:
    REMOVE THE LH SIDE FRESH AIR FEED 10MM NUT ON COOLING FAN SHROUD, REMOVE 10MM STUD ON LH SIDE AND REMOVE THE 10MM BOLT ON RH SIDE. DISCONNECT COOLING FAN ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR AND REMOVE COOLING FAN MOTOR/SHROUD ASSEMBLY.


    STEP 7:
    REMOVE WATER PUMP PULLEY 4 10MM'S (USE OF A 3/8 IMPACT GUN HELPS), REMOVE BOTH THE A/C BELT AND LH SIDE BELT, BOTH IDLER'S 13MM'S, REMOVE LH SIDE BELT TENSIONER 13MM. REMOVE 15MM NUT AND 15MM BOLT FOR ALTERNATOR AND PUSH ALTERNATOR TO THE SIDE, REMOVE UPPER RADIATOR HOSE AND DISCONNECT LOWER RADIATOR HOSE ASSEMBLY.
    [​IMG]
    20140208_102525 by spaded707, on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    20140208_102641 by spaded707, on Flickr


    STEP 8:
    REMOVE 2 8MM BOLTS AND REMOVE THERMOSTAT HOUSEING ASSEMBLY AND REMOVE 4 10MM BOLTS AND REMOVE WATER PUMP ASSEMBLY. (MAKE SURE DRAIN PAN IS POSITIONED UNDER FRONT MIDDLE DUE TO COOLANT BEING BEHIND WATER PUMP).
    [​IMG]
    20140208_102838 by spaded707, on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    20140208_103131 by spaded707, on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    20140208_103702 by spaded707, on Flickr


    STEP 9:
    REMOVE 18MM BOLT AND SPACER ON CRANKSHAFT PULLEY, USING EITHER A 2 JAW OR 3 JAW PULLER REMOVE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY.
    [​IMG]
    20140208_110458 by spaded707, on Flickr



    STEP 10:
    FROM UNDER VEHICLE REMOVE THE 2 FRONT STUDS 13MM AND 2 FRONT BOLTS 10MM ON OIL PAN THAT GOES THROUGH TO FRONT ENGINE COVER. REMOVE THE 13 BOLTS AND 2 STUDDED BOLTS ON FRONT COVER MOST 10MM AND SOME 13MM. (UPPER RH SIDE HAS A 10MM NUT HOLDING A GROUND STRAP TO A 13MM STUD) REMOVE FRONT ENGINE COVER.
    [​IMG]
    20140208_113047 by spaded707, on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    20140208_113104 by spaded707, on Flickr



    STEP 11: **SETTING UP TIMING TO REMOVE CHAINS**


    [​IMG]
    20140208_114314 by spaded707, on Flickr
    1: TURN OVER CRANKSHAFT UNTIL SLOTTED KEYWAY IS AT 12'O CLOCK POSITION.
    [​IMG]
    20140208_121221 by spaded707, on Flickr
    2:VERIFY THAT ON TOP OF ALL 4 CAM SHAFTS THE DATA MATRIX'S ARE FACING UP. (IF NOT THEN ROTATE CRANKSHAFT 1 FULL ROTATION MORE)
    [​IMG]
    20140208_121252 by spaded707, on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    20140208_121300 by spaded707, on Flickr


    WHAT I DO IS MARK 1 LINK WITH WHITE OUT THAT IS RIGHT WHERE THE R IS ON THE RH SIDE CAM PHASER AND THEN MARK 1 LINK ON THE PART OF THE CHAIN THAT IS ON THE CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET.
    [​IMG]
    20140208_121237 by spaded707, on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    20140208_121244 by spaded707, on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    20140208_122235 by spaded707, on Flickr



    3: REMOVE THE 2 10MM BOLTS HOLDING THE RH SIDE CHAIN TENSIONER, REMOVE THE CHAIN TENSIONER AND CHAIN. REMOVE RH TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER ARM AND 1 10MM BOLT FOR TIMING CHAIN GUIDE ON RH SIDE.
    [​IMG]
    20140208_122243 by spaded707, on Flickr

    4: NOW ROTATE CRANKSHAFT OVER COUNTERCLOCKWISE SO KEYWAY IS AT 9'O CLOCK POSITION. MARK WITH WHITEOUT ON THE LINK ABOVE THE L ON THE LH CAM PHASER. THEN MARK A LINK ON THE CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET.

    5: REMOVE THE 2 10MM BOLTS HOLDING THE LH SIDE CHAIN TENSIONER, REMOVE THE CHAIN TENSIONER AND CHAIN. REMOVE THE LH SIDE TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER ARM AND THE 1 10MM BOLT FOR THE TIMING CHAIN GUIDE ON THE LH SIDE. REMOVE THE CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET.


    STEP 12:
    NOW REMOVE THE 2 8MM, 1 9MM STUD AND 1 13MM STUD ON THE OIL PUMP ASSEMBLY. REMOVE 2 10MM BOLTS FOR THE OIL PICKUP TUBE ON THE BOTTOM (I USED A COMBO 10MM WRENCH AND A RATCHETING 10MM WRENCH) THE BOTTOM ONE IS THE HARDEST PART OF THIS JOB. I POSITIONED A MAGNET UNDER JUST INCASE THE BOLT DROPPED. NOW REMOVE OIL PUMP ASSEMBLY. (VERIFY THAT ORING FOR OIL PICKUP TUBE IS THERE AND ON THE OIL PICKUP TUBE)
    [​IMG]
    20140208_123058 by spaded707, on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    20140208_124043 by spaded707, on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    20140208_132129 by spaded707, on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    20140208_132135 by spaded707, on Flickr



    STEP 13:
    NOW REMOVE ALL THE T30 TORX BOLTS ON BACK OF PUMP AND REMOVE OLD OIL PUMP GEARS. COAT NEW GEARS IN OIL. INSTALL INTO HOUSEING WITH MMR LOGO FACING TOWARDS YOU THE INSTALLER. REINSTALL ALL T30 TORX BOLTS BACK ONTO PUMP HOUSEING WITH NEW GEARS INSIDE AND TURN PUMP INSIDE WITH FINGERS TO VERIFY NO BINDING INSIDE OF HOUSEING.
    [​IMG]
    20140208_132146 by spaded707, on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    20140208_132657 by spaded707, on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    20140208_133032 by spaded707, on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    20140208_140731 by spaded707, on Flickr


    STEP 14: REINSTALL PUMP BACK ONTO CRANKSHAFT, INSTALL BOTH 10MM BOLTS ON OIL PICKUP, THEN INSTALL BOTH 8MM'S, 1 9MM AND 1 13MM STUD BACK ONTO PUMP. TORQUE SPEC FOR PUMP IS...
    Stage 1: Hand tighten.
    Stage 2: Tighten the bolt (1) to 10 Nm (89 lb-in), the stud bolt (2) to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft), the bolt (3) to 10 Nm (89 lb-in) and the stud bolt (4) to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).
    Stage 3: Tighten the bolt (1) an additional 45 degrees, the stud bolt (2) an additional 75 degrees, the bolt (3) an additional 45 degrees and the stud bolt (4) an additional 60 degrees.
    [​IMG]
    20140208_141952 by spaded707, on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    20140208_142444 by spaded707, on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    20140208_142449 by spaded707, on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    20140208_142457 by spaded707, on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    20140208_145241 by spaded707, on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    20140208_145246 by spaded707, on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    20140208_145257 by spaded707, on Flickr



    STEP 15:
    THEN REVERSE ORDER OF INSTALLING TIMING COMPONENTS BACK ON.
    INSTALL LH SIDE CHAIN BACK ON WITH MATCHING BACK UP MARKED COMPONENTS ON TOP AND BOTTOM.
    THEN ROTATE CRANKSHAFT BACK CLOCKWISE SO KEYWAY IS BACK AT 12'O CLOCK POSITION.
    THEN REINSTALL RH SIDE TIMING CHAIN AND COMPONENTS, MATCH UP MARKED SPOTS.

    **NOTE**
    **Compress the primary timing chain tensioner plunger, using an edge of a vise. Using a small screwdriver or pick, push back and hold the ratchet mechanism, then push the ratchet arm back into the tensioner housing. Install a suitable pin into the hole of the tensioner housing to hold the ratchet assembly and plunger in place during installation. **


    TORQUE BOTH RH AND LH TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER BOLTS TO 89 INCH POUNDS, TORQUE BOTH 10MM TIMING GUIDE BOLTS TO 89 INCH POUNDS.

    STEP 16:
    BEFORE INSTALLING FRONT ENGINE COVER MAKE SURE TO TURN ENGINE OVER BY HAND SO IT DOES AT LEAST 4 COMPLETE REVOLUTIONS TO VERIFY NOTHING IS HITTING AND ENGINE TURNS OVER FREELY. (WILL MAKE IT EASY IF SPARK PLUGS ARE ALL REMOVED).
    [​IMG]
    20140208_151636 by spaded707, on Flickr


    STEP 17:
    INSTALL NEW GASKETS ON FRONT ENGINE COVER AND CLEAN OFF OLD SILICONE. PUT NEW SILICONE ON SPOTS MARKED IN PICTURE BELOW.
    [​IMG]
    20140208_123051 by spaded707, on Flickr


    STEP 18:
    TORQUE FRONT COVER WITHIN 5 MINS OF APPLYING SILICONE, JUST USE A SORT OF STAR PATTERN ON TORQUING DOWN FRONT COVER.
    ALL FRONT ENGINE COVER BOLTS GET TORQUED TO 18 FOOT POUNDS AND THEN AN ADDITIONAL 60DEGREES.
    THEN TORQUE THE 2 STUDS AND 2 BOLTS ON THE FRONT OF THE OIL PAN TO 89 INCH POUNDS THEN AN ADDITIONAL 45 DEGREES.
    [​IMG]
    20140208_153402 by spaded707, on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    20140208_162845 by spaded707, on Flickr


    STEP 19:
    REINSTALL ALTERNATOR ASSEMBLY, CRANKSHAFT PULLEY, IDLER'S, BELT TENSIONER, WATER PUMP ASSEMBLY, THERMOSTAT ASSEMBLY, COOLING FAN ASSEMBLY, SERP BELTS, BOTH RH AND LH VALVE COVERS (DONT FORGET TO PUT SILICONE ON WHERE THE FRONT COVER AND CYLINDER HEAD MEETS BEFORE PUTTING ON THE VALVE COVERS), BATTERY TRAY AND BATTERY, AIR CLEANER ASSEMBLY AND DEGAS BOTTLE AND HOSES.

    [​IMG]
    20140208_162913 by spaded707, on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    20140208_163257 by spaded707, on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    20140208_165508 by spaded707, on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    20140208_170331 by spaded707, on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    20140208_174327 by spaded707, on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    20140208_181026 by spaded707, on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    20140208_184029 by spaded707, on Flickr

    OTHER TORQUE SPECS:
    ALTERNATOR BOLTS- 35 FOOT POUNDS
    IDLERS- 35 FOOT POUNDS
    BELT TENSIONER- 35 FOOT POUNDS
    WATER PUMP BOLTS- 177 INCH POUNDS THEN ADDITIONAL 60 DEGREES
    THERMOSTAT HOUSING BOLTS- 89 INCH POUNDS
    VALVE COVER BOLTS- 89 INCH POUNDS
    WATER PUMP PULLEY BOLTS- 18 FOOT POUNDS
    CRANKSHAFT PULLEY BOLT-
    Stage 1: Tighten to 140 Nm (103 lb-ft).
    Stage 2: Loosen 360 degrees.
    Stage 3: Tighten to 100 Nm (74 lb-ft).
    Stage 4: Tighten an additional 90 degrees.


    STEP 20:
    PERFORM ENGINE OIL AND FILTER CHANGE THEN REFILL AND BLEED COOLANT. I ALSO CRANKED ENGINE OVER A COUPLE TIMES BEFORE STARTING TO MAKE SURE OIL GOT EVERYWHERE FIRST.

    [​IMG]
    20140208_184035 by spaded707, on Flickr


    -Thomas


























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    tx5.slow, gqneon and BigPoppa like this.
  2. 466roller

    466roller Active Member Established Member

    Messages:
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    Location:
    S. Florida
    Great write-up. Used it to replace my oil pump gears. Thanks for the detailed instructions and pictures. I do have one ? though. Why do you have to rotate the crankshaft over 90* counterclockwise before you remove the drivers cam chain? Just curious.
     
  3. kona 199

    kona 199 reese 1 Established Member

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    Jun 25, 2013
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    ripley,ms
    this is the best how-to- i have seen.thanks for all the pics at every step too and i always was wondering about the rotate 90 degrees.
     
  4. BMR Tech

    BMR Tech Authorized Vendor Authorized Vendor

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    EXCELLLLLENT Write up!

    I wish I would have had the time to do one. I put these gears in my 2015. They are nice pieces!
     
  5. redline5.0

    redline5.0 New Member Established Member

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    Cool its like the ford manual but with real pictures, nice!
     
  6. Blazer707@TBR

    [email protected] Master Ford Tech Authorized Vendor

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Bay Area
    When you rotate it over 90degrees it gives slack on the chain.

    Thanks everyone. I've done many sets of these and they are pretty easy.
     
  7. fulanititoo8198

    fulanititoo8198 Member Established Member

    Messages:
    955
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    Nov 17, 2004
    Location:
    Florida
    Awesome!! I might just do mine but removing the paxton makes it slightly more a pain. Maybe next winter I'll do it! Thanks!
     
  8. FATHERFORD

    FATHERFORD Member Established Member

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    Looks like to me it's totally worth paying a shop $600 to replace them lol.

    I have gotten lazy in my older age.
     
  9. redline5.0

    redline5.0 New Member Established Member

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    Kansas
    How did you go about cranking the motor without it starting. Just pull the fuel pump fuse or what. I will prolly do the same this weekend after I get the cams in even though I will lube everything up with free oil I would like to crank it some to make sure its got oil up there.
     
  10. Bullitt 3309

    Bullitt 3309 Member Established Member

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    San Antonio, Texas
    For initial start up, I unplugged the fuel plug in the trunk. That way no fuel to fire.
     
  11. Uncle Rusty

    Uncle Rusty Member Established Member

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    NE Ohio
    $600 is a pretty damn good deal, you sure they'll do it that cheaply? This is a 10-14 hour job if you're doing a Supercharger at the same time. Personally, I did it myself and took my time, it really wasn't that bad honestly. And I'm someone who previously hadn't done anything more complex on a car than changing spark plugs and swapping a downpipe out.
     
  12. thelastsumurai

    thelastsumurai Member Established Member

    Messages:
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    FL
    Wheres the fun in that? Wouldn't you want to do this job just to learn the engine. It's an incredible machine
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2015
  13. five.slow

    five.slow El Jefe Established Member

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    Just knocked out my oil pump gears. This is actually a pretty easy job to do. Really helps that my car is as clean as the day it left the factory too. The write up was very helpful. Only off thing was my chain tensioners has 8mm bolts not 10mm.
     
  14. Blazer707@TBR

    [email protected] Master Ford Tech Authorized Vendor

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    Then you have a different one, I have only been into one's that have 10mm tensioners and 8mm guide bolts.
     
  15. five.slow

    five.slow El Jefe Established Member

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    Mine must be a 2017 cobra jet block then.... Lol
     
  16. lpheaven

    lpheaven Member Established Member

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    Extremely helpful
    Thanks for the write-up !
     
  17. Cooter75

    Cooter75 New Member Established Member

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    Location:
    Houston
    Great write up blazer!

    I too have the 8mm tensioner bolts.

    Question though. Is there a reason you mark the chains instead of lining up the darker colored chain links to timing marks?

    I understand if the engine is in the car it makes for allot of crank overs to get it lined up, which would definitely save time and effort putting matrixes facing up and marking chains. I just worried I would get something wrong making my own marks.
     
  18. Tuffnuts23

    Tuffnuts23 Member Established Member

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    It's a faster way of doing it, but I screwed it up the first try. The second time I went off the blue links and timing marks. I found that using a cell phone to take a picture dead on the crank sprocket is a great way to make sure you have that timing mark and link lined up if the motor is still in the car. Looking at it from an above or below angle can be a bit deceiving
     
  19. fulanititoo8198

    fulanititoo8198 Member Established Member

    Messages:
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    Nov 17, 2004
    Location:
    Florida
    Used this thread to help me out, thanks a lot again. I will admit I was/am uncomfortable with the way timing was set via marks. They can move, they wipe off etc. Also since I changed the crank gear as well I had to transfer over my marks and it just leaves more room for error. I would have liked to set timing using Ford instructions to be sure it's set correctly. That's the only thing I would have done differently. Bought all the parts from Tasca and MMR definitely took my time with it. Tightening down the front cover as per manual is quite a work of art lol
     
  20. Cooter75

    Cooter75 New Member Established Member

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    Location:
    Houston
    Do you have a pic of that torque sequence of the front cover by chance?
     

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