How To: MMR Billet Oil Pump Gear's Install. **A FEW PICS**

Creedog

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I may plan to have these installed on my 2011 Mustang GT. Just a short background on the car and my intended use. Approx 38k miles with upgrades to the exhaust, suspension, and braking components. I have tracked the car for the past two years. I plan to continue going to different tracks in GA and the surrounding SE area. Cooling mods I have added include the Ford Performance aluminum radiator, Boss 302 oil cooler, and Shelby transmission cooler. I have added the GT500 differential aluminum cover plate as well. The power is stock with a K/N air filter. With road racing the car and sustained high RPM's I want to try to eliminate any possible weak points I have been informed about. These are the mods I am thinking about adding on...

Bought and waiting for install -

GT500 radiator fan

Boss 302 alternator

Plan on purchasing for install -

Should I go with the Ford Performance Cobra Jet oil pump which comes with the billet gears OR go with a set of these Billet Oil Pump gears?

Billet crankshaft sprocket set

Boss 302 chain tensionors

Any opinions or thoughts regarding my plans? Am I missing or overlooking anything? I may add either the Boss 302 or Cobra Jet intake manifolds / tune but not until next year perhaps.
 

Modular Racing

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In regards to which oil pump, the MMR pump has proven to be the best in the business, it is rated at a higher rpm and higher HP than the others on the market, it also has a lifetime warranty. The MMR Billet crank gear is also highly recommended.
 

Creedog

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Does your pump require a different pickup? If so will it work with the standard Boss 302 oil pan? Another site member mentioned http://www.crank-scrapers.com/ to add further insurance against oil starvation concerns. I plan on car being at the dealership for several days with the engine technician doing all the work. It will be expensive but he should be able to install everything and make sure the timing is correctly set with the OEM specs.

GT 500 radiator fan
Boss 302 alternator
Boss 302 chain tensioners
Billet oil pump gears
Billet crank sprocket
Boss 302 oil pan
I reached out to http://www.crank-scrapers.com/ and waiting for reply for what might work with my application.

Thank you for the provided info. I really appreciate it.
 
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Modular Racing

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Additional crank scraper is not needed, the factory windage tray is by far the best out there, we even use it in our 10,000 rpm and 3100HP Coyote powered pro mod!. Our pumps use the factory pick-ups on all models.
 

Famine

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Thank you for this writeup. I need to find one for pulling out and replacing motor. Wanna swap a 15+ longblock in and do the cs sprocket and opg at the same time.
 

hotrod_renegade

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Did I miss somewhere the torque spec for the T30 torx bolts that hold the actual oil pump housing together? Balls deep in this right now and I didn't see it on here nor could I find it in the online workshop manual. Does anyone happen to have that?
 

Gruca

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I'd also be interested in knowing how to change out the crankshaft gear since the timing marks are on the old one. How do you get the new gear on and still ha e the correct timing?
 

hotrod_renegade

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I'd also be interested in knowing how to change out the crankshaft gear since the timing marks are on the old one. How do you get the new gear on and still ha e the correct timing?

I just set them right next to each other with the inner crankshaft keyway pointed up. Count the number of teeth from the keyway around to each mark you have made on the old sprocket, and then transfer that over to the new sprocket. Double check that you have the marks on the inner and outer sprockets the same number of teeth away from the keyway on the old sprocket. Then triple check to be sure. I went all paranoid parrot on this job and triple checked everything, I always get a little nervous messing with timing components but I took my time and made sure everything was right.
 

gqneon

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This is a fantastic write up - thank you!

I have a 2015 and ordered these same gaskets listed - the BR3Z-6584-D / A, thinking they would work for the 2015+. Someone posted a picture of the 2015+ verison, ER3Z-6584-B / A, and the 11-14 ones are noteably shorter than the 2015+ version.

That being said - has anyone used the BR3Z version on a 15+ and did it work?

And with only a couple years and 5k miles on the original rubber valve cover gaskets, would replacing them be necessary? The 15+ versions sell for $70/ea vs $7 for the 11-14, but if it's required it's cheap insurance against leaks.

Amazing write up; really. Thanks!
 

Riddick

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Did I miss somewhere the torque spec for the T30 torx bolts that hold the actual oil pump housing together? Balls deep in this right now and I didn't see it on here nor could I find it in the online workshop manual. Does anyone happen to have that?

Anyone have the answer for these torque specs? I think I read they were 89 in lbs but I want to be certain. Thanks
 

YouGoGlenCocoa

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Stupid question.. i’ve got my key-way rotated counter clockwise stuck at about 9:45-10

I was lucky to get that, my crank bolt keeps loosening up when i turn it counter clockwise.

How important is it that its 100% at 9? Assuming i make my timing marks on the chain and sprocket correctly. Thanks!
 

TVSed GT

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Used this 2 weekends ago to do my opgs. Had access to ford service manuals as well but found myself referring to this write up instead. Awesome, awesome job blazer! Couldn't have done it without this.
 

FreshKill420

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Need some urgent help.

Installed the RH Timing chain but it appears to be a lot of slack. A good 1/4-1/2” between the RH timing guide, not the tensioner guide. Is this normal? Any ideas what it could be if not.

If I rotate the crankshaft it will be come tight then same amount of looseness. It almost seems like the chain should be a link down.

View attachment 1538206
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Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app
 

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TVSed GT

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Need some urgent help.

Installed the RH Timing chain but it appears to be a lot of slack. A good 1/4-1/2” between the RH timing guide, not the tensioner guide. Is this normal? Any ideas what it could be if not.

If I rotate the crankshaft it will be come tight then same amount of looseness. It almost seems like the chain should be a link down.

View attachment 1538206View attachment 1538207


Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app
Make sure you line up the links you marked with the appropriate timing Mark's and that the chain didn't jump when you released the tensioner. I remember that the bottom part of the chain had a lot more play than the upper part after reinstalling. If you triple check the timing you should be good to go.
 

TVSed GT

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Need some urgent help.

Installed the RH Timing chain but it appears to be a lot of slack. A good 1/4-1/2” between the RH timing guide, not the tensioner guide. Is this normal? Any ideas what it could be if not.

If I rotate the crankshaft it will be come tight then same amount of looseness. It almost seems like the chain should be a link down.

View attachment 1538206View attachment 1538207


Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app
Also don’t forget to turn the engine over by hand at least 4 revolutions to be sure there’s no contact before you attempt to start.
 

FreshKill420

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Make sure you line up the links you marked with the appropriate timing Mark's and that the chain didn't jump when you released the tensioner. I remember that the bottom part of the chain had a lot more play than the upper part after reinstalling. If you triple check the timing you should be good to go.

I verified the marks that I made per this guide and tried the blue links per the ford service manual. It still has the same slack on the top guide. It just seems like A LOT of slack. My whole finger can easy fit through it. Driver side is nice and tight.

To be sure, you are supposed to line up the chain on top of the gear tooth that has the mark so it aligns in the middle?

I read that the oil pressure will resolve the slack as the tensioner will tighten up the chain. But I am not certain as the slack is on the top (guide without tensioner) and not on the bottom.

Did anyone have this much slack?
 

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FreshKill420

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It appears the slack is normal when reinstalling the chain and will be taken out when the engine cranks over and the oil pressure is brought to the tensioner.

Team Beefcake Racing and Finish Line Performance helped me to determine if the issue was normal or not. Huge thanks to these guys!

Here is what they said:
"As long as your dark color links are lined up with the timing marks, then the chains are installed correctly. As for the slack, 1st, ALWAYS turn the engine over in clockwise manner. If it is turned backwards it can break the tensioner's,
And it can show slack on the drive side of the chain (per your picture).
2nd, make sure that the tensioner's ratchet mechanisms are not broke, letting the tensioner's to compress to much.

With that being said, if the tensioner's are not damaged, and your links are lined up correctly, You should be fine. The chains will tension properly when the engine is started and the tensioner's get oil pressure."

Once again Thanks to Team Beefcake Racing and Finish Line Performance!
 

bsimms89

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Quick question for everyone who has done this, I'm about to install a set of billet oil pump gears in my 6.2L raptor. Looking at the service manual the install looks almost identical, my one question is did you guys have to remove the VCT variable force solenoid from the front timing cover before you took it off, or did you just leave them mounted to the front cover and they went back in with the cover? In the service manual it says to remove them befor removing the timing cover, I'm just trying to see if this is necessary
 

TVSed GT

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Quick question for everyone who has done this, I'm about to install a set of billet oil pump gears in my 6.2L raptor. Looking at the service manual the install looks almost identical, my one question is did you guys have to remove the VCT variable force solenoid from the front timing cover before you took it off, or did you just leave them mounted to the front cover and they went back in with the cover? In the service manual it says to remove them befor removing the timing cover, I'm just trying to see if this is necessary
Cant speak to the raptor but left them on when doing them in my 12 gt. I would probably defer to the service manual to be safe.
 

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