**GEN-3 Killer Chiller GB**

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Senkak

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A/C supply places have it also.
I used it to insulate my IC tank.
 

rider4life350

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if its around 80-90 ambient temps, I see normal driving IAT2's of around 86-89*......after a good beating 1st-4th...it will spike to around 105* with throttle closed, sometimes with repetitive runs....I may see a spike up to 120, but can usually recovers to around 90's within 5 minutes....to get back to a pre-beating temp of 86-89 sometimes can take 10-15 minutes of normal driving with the AC on.

I insulated my lines with rubber foam sticks from Menards used for 5/8" copper. I insulated the IC tank with 1/2" foam sheeting that has the foil backing. also with ambient temps above 80*, I run with my bypass valve turned to eliminate coolant going to the H/E

i mean in the intercooler tank temps. also how are you measuring your IAT2's? what are your temps when you dont have the H/E bypassed? I dont have a bypass yet but am going to get one to help the cooling.
 

03Snake04

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how are you measuring your IAT2's? what are your temps when you dont have the H/E bypassed? I dont have a bypass yet but am going to get one to help the cooling.

with an aeroforce scan guage, very useful digital gauge

^ whats your low side pressure? you might need a little more freon.... on my setup 3 cans puts me around 35psi , 4 cans around 50psi..... I find that around 40-42psi is about perfect for cabin cooling & IC tank temps of around 40*F

idling around 800 rpms when i charged it .. my low side was around 50psi ... high side was around 240psi ... it was about 86-87 degrees out

*with 3 cans, low side around 45psi and high was about 2.5 x ambient
*with 3 cans plus a pinch of a 4th can, low side was around 50psi and high side was 2.7-2.8 x ambient

now i did bump the throttle blade and high side went up more ... and low side dropped some .. then it came back to the numbers listed above, but the numbers at idle is what's important correct?
 
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03Snake04

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My a/c appears to be blowing cool but not as cold as I'm thinking it should be.. my iat2's are only 10-15 degrees less than they were before the kc.. I charged my system just as the instructions said with alittle over 3 cans of r12 .. high side 2.8 x ambient

I still feel like somethings off .. I was thinking iat2's wouldn't get passed 100 .. mine stay around 110 (used to be 125ish)

do you think it's possible my iat2's are getting 20* above ambient temps even with the kc on because i'm not in bypass... i need to get a thermometer and see what my inside temps and coolant temps are doing so i will really know what's going on
 

03Snake04

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*** one interesting fact i noticed .. i have the jlt Ram Air Intake

under normal cruising even at low speeds .. my iat ONE's are usually the same as outside temps .. only when idling do they go up some .. but any movement and they show outside temps

however, with the a/c and kc working... a fan comes on moving a lot of engine air around ... even while moving my iat ONE's get much higher .. at low speeds (30mph) i seen them get to like 150degrees!

i think it is possible, even with the kc cooling down the coolant, that the iat ONE's are so high going in that it makes it difficult to get the iat TWO's to be low .. cause the intercooler is trying to cool really hot air

keep in mind that with the a/c off the iat ONE's are much lower

i think this may be one of the issues for my kc not working as well as it could be .. i need to invest in a guard shielding the filter much better from engine heat, i may custom make my own for it to draw mostly air from the fender well
 
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SVTDice

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*** one interesting fact i noticed .. i have the jlt Ram Air Intake

under normal cruising even at low speeds .. my iat ONE's are usually the same as outside temps .. only when idling do they go up some .. but any movement and they show outside temps

however, with the a/c and kc working... a fan comes on moving a lot of engine air around ... even while moving my iat ONE's get much higher .. at low speeds (30mph) i seen them get to like 150degrees!

i think it is possible, even with the kc cooling down the coolant, that the iat ONE's are so high going in that it makes it difficult to get the iat TWO's to be low .. cause the intercooler is trying to cool really hot air

keep in mind that with the a/c off the iat ONE's are much lower

i think this may be one of the issues for my kc not working as well as it could be .. i need to invest in a guard shielding the filter much better from engine heat, i may custom make my own for it to draw mostly air from the fender well


A RAI will have much higher IAT's then a CAI, Due to the fact that its actually taking the "Hot" Air from the Engine bay and injecting it directly into the intake. Thus for, Hotter Temp's. If you drive around at cruising speed say 60Mph, Your temps will be alot lower. But in stop and go or even idle. You will notice your IAT's to skyrocket.

Only two options as I see it. Get a JLT High boost next gen CAI<-- Or get a good heat shield. I'd do the first option before the second. HOWEVER, You will need to get your tune adjusted. Keep that in mind.
 

MalcolmV8

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Only two options as I see it. Get a JLT High boost next gen CAI<-- Or get a good heat shield. I'd do the first option before the second. HOWEVER, You will need to get your tune adjusted. Keep that in mind.

Why would you need a new tune? unless your mass air sensor housing changes I don't see the need and I really don't see the need if you're just building a heat shield.
 

SVTDice

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Why would you need a new tune? unless your mass air sensor housing changes I don't see the need and I really don't see the need if you're just building a heat shield.

I wouldn't fiddle with the tune if you only go with a heat shield. Now if you're adding a completely new intake then I'd have your A/F and tune checked out to be sure. Any time you change any air or fuel within your system I'd rather be safe then sorry.

Tunes are cheaper then Engines. I'd talk to Tucker at JLT. He can explain it better.
 

MalcolmV8

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I wouldn't fiddle with the tune if you only go with a heat shield. Now if you're adding a completely new intake then I'd have your A/F and tune checked out to be sure. Any time you change any air or fuel within your system I'd rather be safe then sorry.

Tunes are cheaper then Engines. I'd talk to Tucker at JLT. He can explain it better.

Definitely no harm in checking by what I was getting at if the mass air sensor housing doesn't change it doesn't really matter what you do with the pipe between the mass air and the throttle body as far as tune goes. As long as all air been sucked in is metered air and the MAF housing is identical then nothing changes in the tune.
 

ZZR

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Saw the post that your slammed busy n had a problem at the shop but................left a message, emailed twice, never got a reply.
 
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quad

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Saw the post that your slammed busy n had a problem at the shop but................left a message, emailed twice, never got a reply.
I spoke with Joe today. You should be able to get a hold of him. He explained what the problem was and it delayed them for about 1 week.

Try again.

I will be getting this kit for sure! The more I research about it the better it looks.
 

evh3

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I spoke to Joe on the phone 2 1/2 weeks ago. He told me to email my info to [email protected] and he would call me in a week for my cc num and would ship me out a Gen 3 kit for the GB. After a week of not hearing anything I sent another email 4 days ago for an update but have not gotten a reply. Not sure what to think?

~Matt
 

quad

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I spoke to Joe on the phone 2 1/2 weeks ago. He told me to email my info to [email protected] and he would call me in a week for my cc num and would ship me out a Gen 3 kit for the GB. After a week of not hearing anything I sent another email 4 days ago for an update but have not gotten a reply. Not sure what to think?

~Matt
They had a power outage because of copper theft outside their building. Their server was subsequently down because of the surge. It has been taken care of and they are now trying to catch up.

I am sure he will contact you soon, or you can send another email.
 

J.Kincaid

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My a/c appears to be blowing cool but not as cold as I'm thinking it should be.. my iat2's are only 10-15 degrees less than they were before the kc.. I charged my system just as the instructions said with alittle over 3 cans of r12 .. high side 2.8 x ambient

I still feel like somethings off .. I was thinking iat2's wouldn't get passed 100 .. mine stay around 110 (used to be 125ish)

I think I talked to you about this already, but let me know.

- Joe

if its around 80-90 ambient temps, I see normal driving IAT2's of around 86-89*......after a good beating 1st-4th...it will spike to around 105* with throttle closed, sometimes with repetitive runs....I may see a spike up to 120, but can usually recovers to around 90's within 5 minutes....to get back to a pre-beating temp of 86-89 sometimes can take 10-15 minutes of normal driving with the AC on.

I insulated my lines with rubber foam sticks from Menards used for 5/8" copper. I insulated the IC tank with 1/2" foam sheeting that has the foil backing. also with ambient temps above 80*, I run with my bypass valve turned to eliminate coolant going to the H/E

It's normal for your IAT2's to spike when the throttle snaps shut, due to the EGR. When you log IAT2's, you want to do it at WOT only, and just before you let up off the throttle.

- Joe

Where did you find the foam sheeting for insulating the IC tank?

Any hardware store will have 6' foam sticks in the plumbing section, for about 3 bucks.

*** one interesting fact i noticed .. i have the jlt Ram Air Intake

under normal cruising even at low speeds .. my iat ONE's are usually the same as outside temps .. only when idling do they go up some .. but any movement and they show outside temps

however, with the a/c and kc working... a fan comes on moving a lot of engine air around ... even while moving my iat ONE's get much higher .. at low speeds (30mph) i seen them get to like 150degrees!

i think it is possible, even with the kc cooling down the coolant, that the iat ONE's are so high going in that it makes it difficult to get the iat TWO's to be low .. cause the intercooler is trying to cool really hot air

keep in mind that with the a/c off the iat ONE's are much lower

i think this may be one of the issues for my kc not working as well as it could be .. i need to invest in a guard shielding the filter much better from engine heat, i may custom make my own for it to draw mostly air from the fender well

Also at part throttle, there's very little intake air across the sending unit, so it's reading the manifold temperature as well. Once you dump the throttle that huge mass of intake air will cool down the sending unit, and give you a better idea of your true IAT2's.

- Joe

Saw the post that your slammed busy n had a problem at the shop but................left a message, emailed twice, never got a reply.

Sorry, check my next post.

Thanks,
Joe

I spoke to Joe on the phone 2 1/2 weeks ago. He told me to email my info to [email protected] and he would call me in a week for my cc num and would ship me out a Gen 3 kit for the GB. After a week of not hearing anything I sent another email 4 days ago for an update but have not gotten a reply. Not sure what to think?

~Matt

Sorry everyone, we got hit again! This was twice in two weeks, so we had to change the power cables in our distribution box from copper to aluminum and then build a fence around it. Our computer system took a hit also and we just got it up and running...(sorta)

Anyway, we should be able to resume shipping this next Mon.

Sorry for the delay, and thanks for your patience,
Joe
 

ZZR

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Hi Joe.

Sent you an email, looking for two Cobra kits.

thanks
Rick
 

TRBO VNM

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I just changed Ceanes from 134a to 12a and OMG the difference is awesome. Since he bought a box I am considering putting some in my car(don't have the KC).
 
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