They all look the same. I have UMI. I applaud you for being active on the forums and helping people out. Waiting for those new sways-bars...
What makes the drivers side differant, they use the donkey-ball hole as well?
ATTN: all relocation bracket users!
- Thread starter alex12gt
- Start date
What makes the drivers side differant, they use the donkey-ball hole as well?
A to bmr for helping to make this right. F for vendor telling folks to weld them in to solve the alignment problem.
Nice write up BMR. This is common sense when installing any suspension part.
When I install any part I leave everthing loose take some measurements them tightened everything up. This is the differance between knowing what your doing and thinking u know what your doing.
K members also have play in them. When doing them u should always take a couple fixed point measurements so u can put it in the same spot.
When I install any part I leave everthing loose take some measurements them tightened everything up. This is the differance between knowing what your doing and thinking u know what your doing.
K members also have play in them. When doing them u should always take a couple fixed point measurements so u can put it in the same spot.
It would be a cool and interesting project to lay some strain gauges on a tubular (or other type tubular would simplify geometry) LCA and perform some launches with sticky tires to get some real world loading on the LCA and bracket. This coupled with FEA of the relocation bracket and you can make a good design in regards to yielding failure. Does BMR or any other manufacturer go this far in the design process?
I would imagine they do some type of analysis (probably computer models in Pro-e or something) and may send some prototypes out for stress and strain tests...
Ok guys, I have the BMR Relocation brackets and I never had any of the above issues, these are the simple steps I took to install mine and mine are pretty damn straight. I simply measured my control arms before installing them from bolt hole to bolt hole to make sure both control arms are of equal length. I then installed the control arm relocation brackets, before I tighten everything up I measured rear bolt hole on the relocation bracket to the front bolt hole on the car's chassis. These relocation brackets have some play and adjustment so measure first then tighten and measure again. I took my car to the alignment shop and the alignment guy could not believe that my rear end was perfectly aligned he said not even from the factory they are this way. I did have some toe alignment issues but that is a long story, one of my buddies swore he could align a car by taking measurements blah blah and well the car had some bad tire wear, etc. New tires and an alignment later found out my toe was off quite a bit. Anyhow Here is the alignment sheet. Proof is in the pudding. (No BMR did not pay me to do this) (FYI this was done on a hunter alignment machine probably the best out there, and this guy has been doing alignments for auto cross guys and racers all around the area for 10+ years)
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As soon as this semester is over with school and I have some more time I am going to reinstall and make sure to take measurements. If mine is still off after taking measurements and trying to adjust as much as possible I give up.
Thank you for your input 04compgt
I am happy to see your car has such a great alignment, that is definitely one of the better alignments I have seen on these S197's. Your tech was right, the factory cars definitely don't have perfect thrust angles, nor do they typically have perfect/near perfect toe.
We have been busting our asses with this issue, and, to be honest, we are not really finding an issue on our end. We are working on a few prototype pieces, but I do not believe there is an easy fix for the manufacturers making these bolt-on brackets.
I am starting to feel very confident that the reason some people's are slightly off, is due to the position of the damper weight retaining nut that is installed/welded to the factory axle, from the factory. It definitely makes sense, as Ford really has no reason to make that nut location precise, simply due to the damper weights not needing to be perfectly aligned with anything, in particular.
That being said, we are still working hard on our end to get everything figured out, and possibly have options for people who have this issue.
Like mentioned, there is a "little" play where the BMR Bracket mounts to the damper weight bolt-hole, and this is typically enough to get everything squared up.
Until next time....
I am happy to see your car has such a great alignment, that is definitely one of the better alignments I have seen on these S197's. Your tech was right, the factory cars definitely don't have perfect thrust angles, nor do they typically have perfect/near perfect toe.
We have been busting our asses with this issue, and, to be honest, we are not really finding an issue on our end. We are working on a few prototype pieces, but I do not believe there is an easy fix for the manufacturers making these bolt-on brackets.
I am starting to feel very confident that the reason some people's are slightly off, is due to the position of the damper weight retaining nut that is installed/welded to the factory axle, from the factory. It definitely makes sense, as Ford really has no reason to make that nut location precise, simply due to the damper weights not needing to be perfectly aligned with anything, in particular.
That being said, we are still working hard on our end to get everything figured out, and possibly have options for people who have this issue.
Like mentioned, there is a "little" play where the BMR Bracket mounts to the damper weight bolt-hole, and this is typically enough to get everything squared up.
Until next time....
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Great info in this thread. I'm installing mine on Monday and I probably would have just bolted them up.
Will do, but let me see if I have this right...there is play built into the passenger side bracket due to manufacturing differences from car to car with the position of the axle weight mounting hole. The BMR bracket hole is made larger to accommodate the variances. The bracket can be moved forward and back slightly before the weight and bolt is torqued down. Its best to have it in its rear most position.
Measure stock component location from the rim lip to fender on both sides.
Install Brackets and LCA's and adjust to get the same distances from rim lip to fender on both sides.
Do I have the jist of it?
Also, which mounting hole position would you recommend for H&R Super Sport Springs. They have an advertised drop of 2.4", but I prob got around 2.0-2.1" I was going to start in the middle and look at the LCA angle and adjust from there...Obviously it will be either the middle or bottom hole, but I wasn't sure if you knew the best one off the top of your head for those springs.
Thanks :beer:
Thanks Kelly! :beer:
After reading this thread, I went out and actually measured my car, and sure enough, the drivers side was shifted forward 1/2 inch. I put the rear of the car on jackstands, put my hydraulic jack under the rear axle. The then dropped the lca's and loosened the all the relo bracket bolts on both sides. At that point I realized there was a slight amount of play on both sides. I shifted the passenger side bracket all the way to the rear and the drivers side all the way to the front and tightened everything back down. After putting it all back together and setting it on the ground, the rear axle measures perfectly square. Kind of a pain in the ass but certainly worth the effort. Oddly enough my steering wheel never seemed crooked when the car was going straight, but the rear definitely wasn't square. Also, when I installed them to begin with, I never noticed that there was any play. Oh well, live and learn. Thanks to Kelly at BMR for the write-up on how the fix this.
now check it in 2 weeks mine moved back almost .25
I'll do that and if it shifts back....that bitch is getting welded.
2013 gt500... passenger side is a half in back, or the drivers side is a half in forward... Bmr relocation brackets. I knew it was pulling to the right. Thank the gods I found this thread. Going to put up on stand and loosen passenger side and push it back. Will post back in the thread after. If it's fixed they are being welded
BMR and other manufacturers should really add that into the install instructions. However, if they start to shift in a few weeks , they cant really advertise and sell them as bolt-in brackets.:nono:
Kelly, any thoughts about the brackets shifting after a few weeks?
If you install them at the rear most position, why would they shift?
The force of the acceleration would push on them, no?
I would assume they will shift back if anything?
The force of the acceleration would push on them, no?
I would assume they will shift back if anything?
Kelly said to adjust the pass side only. The pass side is further back than the drivers side, so pushing it(pass side) all the way back aint gonna fix it.
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