ATTN: all relocation bracket users!
- Thread starter alex12gt
- Start date
No problem! Call me if you have any other issues and need any assistance. ;-)
Let me know how it goes. Just ensure the passenger side bracket is in the rear-most position, then check wheelbase.
With my personal experience, I don't see how it shifts. The brackets (passenger side specifically) should be in their rear-most positions. I fail to see how the bracket would shift forward.
Our car has cut more 1.4 sixty-foots than any car in this thread, and we actually loosened the passenger side and were able to shift it back.
Bingo.
Please re-read my posts carefully. You are mis-understanding how this is working. Yes, passenger side bracket moved back does fix it, I wrote a novel about it a few pages back. ;-)
I won't blame anyone's bracket, and am not convinced our bracket "has issues".....but there are CHE bracket users who have this exact same issue, a simple google search will show you their posts.
Every bracket from BMR is the same. There are people in this thread that have 100% perfect axle alignment, and people who do not. There is also input from users with other brands with the same issue, on the same side, ironic.
Well, I was able to get the gap on the passenger's side down to an eighth of an inch, have touched the driver's side.
What I did...
Loosened up the passenger bracket and dropped the control arm. Removed the two large bolts and the gold spacer.
Used a ratchet strap, hooked to the outside of the sway bar, and hooked into the hole just behind the front mount for the lower control arm.
Tightened the strap just enough to keep the axle from slipping backwards during the next step.
Used another ratchet strap and attached it to the "spare tire" drop in the trunk and the other end attached to the relocation bracket. Put some tension on the strap to pull the bracket as far back as possible without stressing or "over-pulling the bracket. Took up the slack to pull the bracket back and a bit more. (This is where the strap attached to the sway bar allows the bracket to be pulled backwards.)
With the two straps attached and tensioned I then torqued the bolt going into the "axle weight" area. Following that, I torqued the rear, upper bolt to the proper spec.
I then released the tension on the ratchet strap attached to the relocation bracket, but kept tension on the one attached to the sway bar.
I then installed to long upper bolt and gold spacer and snugged it.
Using the ratchet strap attached to the sway bar I pulled the axle forward and installed the lower control arm, bolt, and nut.
I then put one more click of tension on the ratchet strap to get the axle as far forward as I could.
I then torqued the upper and lower bolts and nuts to proper spec.
Finally, I released the ratchet strap attached to the sway bar.
I measured from the front control arm nut to the lower hole on the relocation bracket on both sides.
Doing this got me from a half inch back on the passenger side to a tad less than an eighth of inch back on the passenger side.
I would imagine I could get the drivers side to correct the eighth of an inch by tensioning the bracket forward on that side and using the sway bar to prevent the axle itself from slipping forward.
It may be a little much, but it fixed the offset...
Hope this helps a few of you out.:beer:
What I did...
Loosened up the passenger bracket and dropped the control arm. Removed the two large bolts and the gold spacer.
Used a ratchet strap, hooked to the outside of the sway bar, and hooked into the hole just behind the front mount for the lower control arm.
Tightened the strap just enough to keep the axle from slipping backwards during the next step.
Used another ratchet strap and attached it to the "spare tire" drop in the trunk and the other end attached to the relocation bracket. Put some tension on the strap to pull the bracket as far back as possible without stressing or "over-pulling the bracket. Took up the slack to pull the bracket back and a bit more. (This is where the strap attached to the sway bar allows the bracket to be pulled backwards.)
With the two straps attached and tensioned I then torqued the bolt going into the "axle weight" area. Following that, I torqued the rear, upper bolt to the proper spec.
I then released the tension on the ratchet strap attached to the relocation bracket, but kept tension on the one attached to the sway bar.
I then installed to long upper bolt and gold spacer and snugged it.
Using the ratchet strap attached to the sway bar I pulled the axle forward and installed the lower control arm, bolt, and nut.
I then put one more click of tension on the ratchet strap to get the axle as far forward as I could.
I then torqued the upper and lower bolts and nuts to proper spec.
Finally, I released the ratchet strap attached to the sway bar.
I measured from the front control arm nut to the lower hole on the relocation bracket on both sides.
Doing this got me from a half inch back on the passenger side to a tad less than an eighth of inch back on the passenger side.
I would imagine I could get the drivers side to correct the eighth of an inch by tensioning the bracket forward on that side and using the sway bar to prevent the axle itself from slipping forward.
It may be a little much, but it fixed the offset...
Hope this helps a few of you out.:beer:
*update*
After testing, then testing more, we have come to a few conclusions.
First, after testing our brackets on several cars (SAME BRACKETS), on the same lift, we have seen some inconsistency. We have been installing the brackets, and measuring wheelbase, tire-to-fenders, bolt-hole centerlines and actual angles of the brackets/LCAs.
One thing that stands out is, we have noticed that on several cars, including the BMR Test Car, the angles of the brackets and the LCA mounting holes are exact.....within .25 degree. (85 degree angle on both sides!) This is very good news for us, and shows how consistent our manufacturing is.
The problem with this is, on one particular car....we had two different angles (from side to side) which means the bolt-hole centers are slightly off, causing the rear-end to twist slightly to one side (driver side, matches some people's issue)
This particular car, a BMR Employees car, is a completely stock 2007 V6 Mustang. After having a little "issue" installing the driver side bracket, we noticed the nut for the damper bolt was not centered in the LCA Mount bracket hole, showing that our theory of that nut being welded from the factory, in various locations, is more than likely correct.
It appears that the amount that is "off" on some of these cars, right at the source (damper weight bolt) is around 1/16"...which is not much, but will be exaggerated as it travels inches down to the LCA Mounting point.
We are going to do a little more testing, and should be revising the passenger side damper bolt hole to be a little more forgiving, for factory tolerance differences.
What this means is, we are not going to change the size of the hole, but, we are going to shift the hole about 1/32".....which should work in conjunction with the small amount of tolerance between the actual bolt diameter and the mounting hole diameter, to ensure that the most anyone could be off at the actual LCA should never be more than 1/8" or so, and if they are off a little, a slight shift of the brackets and re-torque should resolve the issue.
As it is now, the people who are experiencing this issue, seem to be putting a little more effort (see post above) into it, than we feel comfortable with, so we are also going to slightly change the angle of the upper mounting strap on the passenger side relocation bracket.
If you are reading this, and have done everything you can do to try and alleviate this issue....the revision that we are going to incorporate into our next batch of brackets may help you out. If you are not happy with the current alignment, and want to try the new one (passenger side) out after they are built, please contact me so we can discuss your specific scenario/needs.
Thanks to everyone for providing feedback, if it weren't for that, we would not be able to maintain the highest level of Suspension Manufacturing possible. :beer:
After testing, then testing more, we have come to a few conclusions.
First, after testing our brackets on several cars (SAME BRACKETS), on the same lift, we have seen some inconsistency. We have been installing the brackets, and measuring wheelbase, tire-to-fenders, bolt-hole centerlines and actual angles of the brackets/LCAs.
One thing that stands out is, we have noticed that on several cars, including the BMR Test Car, the angles of the brackets and the LCA mounting holes are exact.....within .25 degree. (85 degree angle on both sides!) This is very good news for us, and shows how consistent our manufacturing is.
The problem with this is, on one particular car....we had two different angles (from side to side) which means the bolt-hole centers are slightly off, causing the rear-end to twist slightly to one side (driver side, matches some people's issue)
This particular car, a BMR Employees car, is a completely stock 2007 V6 Mustang. After having a little "issue" installing the driver side bracket, we noticed the nut for the damper bolt was not centered in the LCA Mount bracket hole, showing that our theory of that nut being welded from the factory, in various locations, is more than likely correct.
It appears that the amount that is "off" on some of these cars, right at the source (damper weight bolt) is around 1/16"...which is not much, but will be exaggerated as it travels inches down to the LCA Mounting point.
We are going to do a little more testing, and should be revising the passenger side damper bolt hole to be a little more forgiving, for factory tolerance differences.
What this means is, we are not going to change the size of the hole, but, we are going to shift the hole about 1/32".....which should work in conjunction with the small amount of tolerance between the actual bolt diameter and the mounting hole diameter, to ensure that the most anyone could be off at the actual LCA should never be more than 1/8" or so, and if they are off a little, a slight shift of the brackets and re-torque should resolve the issue.
As it is now, the people who are experiencing this issue, seem to be putting a little more effort (see post above) into it, than we feel comfortable with, so we are also going to slightly change the angle of the upper mounting strap on the passenger side relocation bracket.
If you are reading this, and have done everything you can do to try and alleviate this issue....the revision that we are going to incorporate into our next batch of brackets may help you out. If you are not happy with the current alignment, and want to try the new one (passenger side) out after they are built, please contact me so we can discuss your specific scenario/needs.
Thanks to everyone for providing feedback, if it weren't for that, we would not be able to maintain the highest level of Suspension Manufacturing possible. :beer:
BMR FTW. Thanks for being on top of this Kelly!
Good stuff. I dont have your brackets, but this type of testing and revision on your part might make me get them if I cant get mine to work. I really dont feel that getting adjustable lca's is the proper solution to this issue.
When will the revised sets be shipping?
When will the revised sets be shipping?
Kelly rocks! :rockon:
What brackets do you have now? Have you tried shifting them at all? How far off are they? There is a certain point, in which, I definitely advise against using adjustable LCA to correct the issue. We are in the business to provide parts that work, not make a part that requires the end-user to purchase another part for $200+ to get it to work properly, however, if the amount is less than 1/4"...you should not have any ill effects from using the adjustable LCA to get everything squared up. I know some people may not like that advice, but, you should see some of the alignment specs that I run into on customers cars, that have no rear suspension modifications.
Factory thrust angle spec on these cars, side to side, is -.50 to .50, as can be seen in the alignment sheet 04Compgt posted.
I would imagine these revised passenger side brackets will be on our shelves in about a month, maybe 2.
Thanks DP!
Testing, as in?
Here are the 3-prototypes that we are going to be testing on various cars over the next few weeks. When they prove to be the solution for every car they are installed on, it is only a matter of building the new batch.
The overall design of these is, and have been tested very thoroughly over the last several years, proving them to be the best option available. As soon as we ensure the new hole location is fail-proof, they will be in production.
I still want people to know and realize, the current brackets are not "wrong" We designed and build them based off our 2011 Mustang GT. They were designed on our car when it had <300 miles on it, in June-2010.
It just so happens that apparantely our car doesn't match every car out there, which is why this thread is alive and kicking.
Time to clock-out. I'll be on later tonight while enjoying another bowl of Cinnamon Almond Raisin Bran (they really are the best)
Here are the 3-prototypes that we are going to be testing on various cars over the next few weeks. When they prove to be the solution for every car they are installed on, it is only a matter of building the new batch.
The overall design of these is, and have been tested very thoroughly over the last several years, proving them to be the best option available. As soon as we ensure the new hole location is fail-proof, they will be in production.
I still want people to know and realize, the current brackets are not "wrong" We designed and build them based off our 2011 Mustang GT. They were designed on our car when it had <300 miles on it, in June-2010.
It just so happens that apparantely our car doesn't match every car out there, which is why this thread is alive and kicking.
Time to clock-out. I'll be on later tonight while enjoying another bowl of Cinnamon Almond Raisin Bran (they really are the best)
Just got mine on recently and checked them(after reading this thread). After a few passes at the track they are dead on.
Good to hear :beer:
And they sure the hell work on that beast! :rockon:
1.4 sixties + 19's + Nitrous = Insane
Is the damper weight hole the one on the back of the stock brackets?
Side. Where the donkey-balls are.
this all makes sense now. maybe slot the donkey ball holes?
Well, the issue with slotting them is that they would be less effective in terms of alignment and strength.
At first, we considered possibly slotting it....then trying to make a way to ensure they stay-put after being torqued.....but we do not feel that is the appropriate path to take.
At first, we considered possibly slotting it....then trying to make a way to ensure they stay-put after being torqued.....but we do not feel that is the appropriate path to take.
my gap between my tire and body was off by 1/2 inch with bmr relo on my 2011 i correct it is by using a smaller bolt on passenger side weight
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/83724439@N04/9179085343/" title="2013-06-29 21.18.40 de bob4501976, sur Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2842/9179085343_a235c4099c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="2013-06-29 21.18.40"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/83724439@N04/9179079811/" title="2013-06-29 21.18.14 de bob4501976, sur Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2884/9179079811_fbf09a44a6.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="2013-06-29 21.18.14"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/83724439@N04/9179085343/" title="2013-06-29 21.18.40 de bob4501976, sur Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2842/9179085343_a235c4099c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="2013-06-29 21.18.40"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/83724439@N04/9179079811/" title="2013-06-29 21.18.14 de bob4501976, sur Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2884/9179079811_fbf09a44a6.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="2013-06-29 21.18.14"></a>
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bob450, wouldn't a smaller bolt give the bracket some room to slip? or have play?
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