ATTN: all relocation bracket users!

Fun4me

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2012
Messages
946
Location
chicago
Lol at punching it on gravel, OUCH!
Dirt is not the same as gravel. I was on a dirt road once to buy some Farm-fresh produce, and out of nowhere a huge tractor comes around the corner. I was able to get in reverse, but no more dirt roads for me.

Back on topic. If the car is straight w/o relos and 1/2 inch off w/ relos. What could possibly be the problem?:poke:

Looks like no-one has this problem w/ the 302s relos.....
 

Blazer707@TBR

Master Ford Tech
Authorized Vendor
Joined
Aug 19, 2012
Messages
4,313
Location
Bay Area
Dirt is not the same as gravel. I was on a dirt road once to buy some Farm-fresh produce, and out of nowhere a huge tractor comes around the corner. I was able to get in reverse, but no more dirt roads for me.

Back on topic. If the car is straight w/o relos and 1/2 inch off w/ relos. What could possibly be the problem?:poke:

Looks like no-one has this problem w/ the 302s relos.....

I have BMR relos and doing the fender measureing its off by half an inch. Put it up on the alignment rack and the thrust angle was at -.09. Not bad at all. Once you put the relos on it magnifies any slight imperfection.

If you want to know if its really off measure your wheel base.

-Thomas

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
 

Snake40

Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2003
Messages
828
Location
Texarkana,Tx
Sorry Fun, no insult intended, just seemed like a thing we texans would be accused of!:banana:
I have the Ford Racing relos waiting to go on. They're same ones used on the 302. I haven't heard of anyone who had problems with them. They're definitely built well.
Mike
 

Fun4me

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2012
Messages
946
Location
chicago
I have BMR relos and doing the fender measureing its off by half an inch. Put it up on the alignment rack and the thrust angle was at -.09. Not bad at all. Once you put the relos on it magnifies any slight imperfection.

If you want to know if its really off measure your wheel base.

-Thomas

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
Measuring the wheelbase isnt that easy to do accurately. My cheapo alignment didnt notice anything, but I'm about 1/2 off w/ the relos at the bottom hole. It looks like its an issue w/ some relo manufactures(who might have copied of each other). I got UMI relos and someone elswe in this thread has the same issue w/ the UMI. Whats funny is that some brackets dont have this issue, so that tells me its time for the manufactures/vendors to step up and issue some refunds or exchanges for redesigned parts.
 

Fun4me

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2012
Messages
946
Location
chicago
Sorry Fun, no insult intended, just seemed like a thing we texans would be accused of!:banana:
I have the Ford Racing relos waiting to go on. They're same ones used on the 302. I haven't heard of anyone who had problems with them. They're definitely built well.
Mike
I'm ready to go w/ the 302s relos too. As soon as someone takes responsibility for the poorly designed pieces of shit I have now.
 

Blazer707@TBR

Master Ford Tech
Authorized Vendor
Joined
Aug 19, 2012
Messages
4,313
Location
Bay Area
Measuring the wheelbase isnt that easy to do accurately. My cheapo alignment didnt notice anything, but I'm about 1/2 off w/ the relos at the bottom hole. It looks like its an issue w/ some relo manufactures(who might have copied of each other). I got UMI relos and someone elswe in this thread has the same issue w/ the UMI. Whats funny is that some brackets dont have this issue, so that tells me its time for the manufactures/vendors to step up and issue some refunds or exchanges for redesigned parts.

Actually measureing wheel base on these cars is extremely easy. All you need is string, tape and a tape measure. Very easy to do and accurate.

-Thomas

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
 

Fun4me

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2012
Messages
946
Location
chicago
Actually measureing wheel base on these cars is extremely easy. All you need is string, tape and a tape measure. Very easy to do and accurate.

-Thomas

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
Please explain.....I was using a wife and a tape measure.

Anyway, if the gap is even w/o the relos and not even w/ them, how could the wheelbase stay the same?
 

Blazer707@TBR

Master Ford Tech
Authorized Vendor
Joined
Aug 19, 2012
Messages
4,313
Location
Bay Area
Please explain.....I was using a wife and a tape measure.

Anyway, if the gap is even w/o the relos and not even w/ them, how could the wheelbase stay the same?

Because you did not buy a ferrari. I would not trust every body panel/ plastic trim piece on a mustang.

You wrap the string around the car completely leveled and tape and mark in the center of each center cap then measure the string.

-Thomas

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
 

Snake40

Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2003
Messages
828
Location
Texarkana,Tx
I'm ready to go w/ the 302s relos too. As soon as someone takes responsibility for the poorly designed pieces of shit I have now.

I dont blame you. as soon as i get mine on I'll check alignment and post results. waiting on mu buddy to free up the lift.
 

BMR Tech

Active Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2011
Messages
4,454
Location
FL
I spent 5 hours today on the lift. Our mechanic and I swapped parts, over and over again, from stock to BMR.

I can, without a doubt, see why some cars can have this issue and some don't. Even the SLIGHTEST bit of slop, or tolerance can throw things off by a good amount.

Our brackets are VERY consistent. The inconsistency comes from the installation, which, can be tricky to get them accurate from side-to-side. That being said, we are going to be working on a solution over the next week or so, to make this situation easier to prevent for the end-user.

Skipping to the point. The brackets, specifically the passenger side, have play in them. Looking at my data, there is about 3/8" of "play" or possible movement within the passenger side relocation bracket. This play is not bad, you just have to ensure the passenger side bracket is mounted in the most rearward position, which takes a little more time than just putting them in place, and torquing them. Now, this 3/8" play is NOT at the mounting point(s) for the bracket. The 3/8" is at the actual LCA mounts in the brackets. The small amount of movement up top, gets exaggerated by the lower LCA mounting point

When we installed a fresh set of CAB005 Brackets, we got the following measurements, from the wheel lip to the fender:

Passenger Side: 6.3"
Driver Side: 5.9"

This is a little over 1/4"

When we loosened the passenger side bracket, and shifted it back rearward, this resulted in:

Passenger Side: 6.14"
Driver Side: 6.00"

The factory measurements with stock LCA in the stock position:

Passenger Side: 6.0"
Driver Side: 5.92"

As you will see with the picture, I was measuring with a caliper...to the rim, and a straight razor clamped to the fender (on both sides)

Additionally, I measured what matters, which is the the front LCA Bolt, to the (3) Holes in the BMR CAB005 Brackets. I measured this with the stock LCA Mounted in the stock LCA position, with the BMR Brackets on the car:

Installed / Torqued (not shifted)

Passenger Side:
Hole 1 - 18.3125"
Hole 2 - 18.2500"
Hole 3 - 18.1875"

Driver Side:
Hole 1 - 18.50"
Hole 2 - 18.50"
Hole 3 - 18.50"

This seems to be consistent with everything else. So of course, we loosened, applied pressure, and re-torqued the passenger side, which resulted in:

Hole 1 - 18.4450"
Hole 2 - 18.4375"
Hole 3 - 18.4375"

To put that into perspective, that is 1/16" difference, (from left to right) which is I would imagine, is typically the tolerance (probably better actually) with most custom suspension manufacturers.

Thanks to everyone who has provided input, we will continue to look into the issue and I will post up anything I find out. :beer:

IMAG1036.jpg

IMAG1037.jpg

IMAG1038.jpg

IMAG1039.jpg

IMAG1040.jpg

IMAG1041.jpg
 
Last edited:

Fun4me

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2012
Messages
946
Location
chicago
Is this something that can be adjusted by hand once the bolts are loosened? Or is it hammertime? I'm also not clear why pushing the pass side back lowers the amount of the pass side gap? Maybe a short video would be appropriate.
 

Fabbed5.0

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2012
Messages
889
Location
Clearwater
Good write up Kelly, Im gonna do the same to my car and report back. I have no doubt its install error and will be easy to fix. lol at Colts big head
 

Fabbed5.0

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2012
Messages
889
Location
Clearwater
Is this something that can be adjusted by hand once the bolts are loosened? Or is it hammertime? I'm also not clear why pushing the pass side back lowers the amount of the pass side gap? Maybe a short video would be appropriate.

Pulling the bracket back pushes the rear end forwards on the one side making them even.
 

BMR Tech

Active Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2011
Messages
4,454
Location
FL
The further you move the mounting point back, without moving the axle housing....the closer you have to move the axle housing to mount to the LCA. Think of it like we are talking about the front mounting point on the body. If you move that point forward 5"...you are expanding the gap by 5", but you have to move the axle forward 5" to get the LCA to the 5" further forward hole, thus slamming your wheels into the fender.

Now that I am in the comfort of my home office, munching on a huge (extremely large) bowl of Raisin Bran (Cinammon Almond, it's the best) I would like to touch on something that I feel is very important here.

The axle damper bolt holes on the factory axle housing, are what locates these brackets. Any bracket/brand who uses this, it's the same, as in, that factory damper hole determines the position of our brackets. This hole I refer to, is a hole cut into the factory LCA bracket, with a welded nut on the inside of the bracket, in which you thread a bolt into. I won't go too far into detail here, but, the reason there is a little bit of tolerance built into our bracket in that area, is simple. When we built our first batch of 50, a few customers simply could not get them to line up on their cars. We immediately got them back from the customer, and they bolted right onto our car (which we designed them around). Same brackets, different cars, different results. So, we made the hole slightly larger to compensate for some people's tolerance on their vehicle. This goes back to compounding tolerance, factory VS aftermarket. We see this issue with many parts, it is the nature of the beast.

With that being said, it is my firm belief that any company who utilizes that damper bolt for locating/strength, will have a/some customers with this issue. Regardless of how good their engineering is. I could be wrong, but I highly doubt it. This thread, and some of the participants have done a good job of confirming that belief. The downfall to this is, that damper bolt MUST be utilized, if you want to have a durable set of true bolt-on relocation brackets. Again, regardless of material thickness, appearance, design, etc, that damper bolt hole is a must if you want a set of bolt-on brackets that you do not need to weld-on. Now, I am not saying Brand X's Relocation brackets won't bend/break if they use that damper mounting point. Nor am I assuring that Brand Y's will break because they don't have this mounting feature, but I am saying you will not bend or break the BMR Brackets, due to that damper mounting point AND the design, if they are installed and torqued properly.

Cereal is getting soggy. If anyone has any questions, please ask.
 

Mr. Freeze

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2004
Messages
3,794
Location
south texas
On that anti roll bar, is that an extreme anit roll that you guys sell? Also, does it have to be welded to be put on or recommended that you do?
Do it help on 60'?
 

BMR Tech

Active Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2011
Messages
4,454
Location
FL
On that anti roll bar, is that an extreme anit roll that you guys sell? Also, does it have to be welded to be put on or recommended that you do?
Do it help on 60'?

That is the Extreme Anti-Roll Bar, yes.

The only part that needs welding, are the axle tabs to the rear end, everything else bolts right on and it provides excellent exhaust clearance.

It will help with 60' times if the car needs it. If the car is squatting towards the passenger side excessively, or pulling to one side excessively upon launch, or unloading and spinning due to the direction the car leans on upon launch....it will improve your sixty foot time.
 

Fun4me

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2012
Messages
946
Location
chicago
Does this mean that both brackets move? It was stated previously that only the pass side was the issue.
 

BMR Tech

Active Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2011
Messages
4,454
Location
FL
No. Any movement i have mentioned, has been in reference to the passenger side bracket. I am not sure about your set-up, as they are not BMR, correct?
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top