ATTN: all relocation bracket users!

WHSTLR

TRAKDAY
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Copperas Cove, Texas
I have Whiteline Relos and BMR LCAs (non adj.)! I too have the .5 fender difference with the passenger wheel being farther forward. I looked at them but can't wrap my head around any adjusting. It took all my might to get them pushed forward so the LCA would even go into the bracket during install. Seems like I could go adj. LCA but not sure how much adjustment they provide and whether that's the right answer.
 

jojobee

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May 27, 2012
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Montreal, Qc
my gap between my tire and body was off by 1/2 inch with bmr relo on my 2011 i correct it is by using a smaller bolt on passenger side weight
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[URL="http://www.flickr.com/photos/83724439@N04/9179079811/"] [/URL]

I dont see this hoding up for long even with the bolt torqued to the max.
I am pretty sure it will move eventually especially with all the vibration this part will sustain.
Nevertheless i'll give it a try..
 

alex12gt

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moline, il
i moved mine into place measured 50x and welded them into place and no more issues and never have to worry about it again
 

SignalZero

Eat mor Chikin
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Just installed BMR brackets. After installing, I measured the front of the tire to fender gap. Drivers was 2 3/8" and Passengers was 2 9/16" (3/16" diff). I then measured the wheelbase on each side and while not "measuring" them inches wise (I just compared each), it did in fact show the passenger side tire to be back approx 1/8"(not as much as the fender gap showed as a result in tolerances from the factory as others have stated).

I then loosened up both brackets, LCA's, weight mounting points and jacked up the car approx 2" off the ground and let the jack down quickly to "jounce" the suspension. After repeating this 5 times, I pulled the passenger side Relo bracket as far back as I could and tightened er up. I then tightened the drivers side Relo bracket as well. After tightening it up, I measured the same points and the Drivers was 2 7/16" and Passengers was 2 1/2" (1/16" diff). I then once again measured the wheel base using the same string method and it was about dead nuts.

Took for a 15 mile drive and she's as straight as an arrow. Couple WOT pulls and it def feels more planted and when it spins the tires on the 1-2 and 2-3 shift it stays straight. :beer: hopefully this may help someone else too...
 

BMR Tech

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Thanks for the feedback Signal. Your results are fairly typical.

When the brackets are in their rear most position, they should be well within tolerance.

When the wheelbase starts approaching the > 1/4" off range, that is when I generally recommend addressing the issue. I have "tracked" close to 20 recent installs......and none of them have been more than 1/8" off. I am fairly certain that the people who are seeing a large difference, have other contributing factors.
 

UnleashedBeast

Engine Lubrication Guru
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Mine was way off. Loosed and readjusted the passenger side bracket all the way back. New measurements are within 1/8" to 3/16" from side to side.

I'm welding them on in the morning so they will never move again.
 

slagburn

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Just installed a set of these on my '13. They came from Summit so whether they're the revised part or not, I don't know.. I will say that the passenger side weight bolt hole ended up being about 1/3 hole off to get the wheelbase dead nuts. They're burned in now so no big deal.

BMR, if you're listening, it would be a nice addition to the part to make the inner edge of the driver's side bracket follow the upper rear contour of the factory bracket. There is a huge, non weldable gap there. I beat it over enough to get a bead on it.
 

SignalZero

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Just installed a set of these on my '13. They came from Summit so whether they're the revised part or not, I don't know.. I will say that the passenger side weight bolt hole ended up being about 1/3 hole off to get the wheelbase dead nuts. They're burned in now so no big deal.

BMR, if you're listening, it would be a nice addition to the part to make the inner edge of the driver's side bracket follow the upper rear contour of the factory bracket. There is a huge, non weldable gap there. I beat it over enough to get a bead on it.

Ditto. I made a template using the mounting area and cut a piece out of 1/4 steel to act as a spacer. I figure when they get welded, I'll slide it in place of the spacer that comes with the relo brackets and weld it all together. :rockon:
 

ExTurbo

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Burlington, NJ
I just measured mine and i was about a half inch forward on the drivers side. I think im gonna go ahead and have the brackets welded, ill have to make sure they straighten everything out first of course. Im thinking while they are back there would an axle brace take some of the stress off the relocation brackets? I was also planning on getting an upper control arm in the near future so i figured while im at it id throw one of those on as well. At that point would welding the axle tubes be necessary? any input?
 

90secdak

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Nov 21, 2013
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Michigan
there is a very good chance its not the LCA brackets that are off, the axle tube will spin in the the housing throwing the drivers side back and the tire into the wheel well, If you have a Manual or an Auto and are running a sticky tire at the track weld the axle tubes! you dont need 600 HP to have an issue.
 

Robertt305

Devil Dog
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florida
I just checked mine and they seemed fine. Only problem is I found a few bolts that loosened up after having torquing them to spec on the initial install.

Gonna have these bitches welded in, F it.
 

2012GTCS

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So what isnthe latest info?! Are these new BMR LCAs/relos good to go as a simple bolt in? Or is all the adjustments after the fact still needed?! Looking to pull the trigger on a set. Also these new brackets are manufactured after what date?!
 

BMR Tech

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FL
Bolt-on and go!

I wouldn't worry about the dates, etc etc etc.

I had a car come in the other day, stock except for lowering springs. Rear axle was off .27"

If someone has a legit issue, I am a phone call away.

Bolt them on, and enjoy the benefit.
 

KIXASS

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Can you weld axle tubes while still in car? Do you have to remove the axles or anything before welding them? Does anyone make any kind of brace that will do the same thing as welding the axle tubes? Anyone have pics of theirs welded?
 

selfmade41

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Bolt-on and go!

I wouldn't worry about the dates, etc etc etc.

I had a car come in the other day, stock except for lowering springs. Rear axle was off .27"

If someone has a legit issue, I am a phone call away.

Bolt them on, and enjoy the benefit.

I'm looking at picking these up now but stumbled upon this thread, My car is lowered 1.5 all around and i'm looking to improve my 60ft times. Question is, is everything dialed in NOW?? Seems like a lot of back and forth in 2013. Do I need to have these welded in (looking at around 580RWHP when all is said in done) I'm definitely no mechanic but seem to be able to install bolt ons without any problems, can I do this or should I have them professionally installed?

Looking at: BMR-TCA019R and BMR-CAB005H
 

BMR Tech

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FL
I'm looking at picking these up now but stumbled upon this thread, My car is lowered 1.5 all around and i'm looking to improve my 60ft times. Question is, is everything dialed in NOW?? Seems like a lot of back and forth in 2013. Do I need to have these welded in (looking at around 580RWHP when all is said in done) I'm definitely no mechanic but seem to be able to install bolt ons without any problems, can I do this or should I have them professionally installed?

Looking at: BMR-TCA019R and BMR-CAB005H

It depends. Some cars need attention, and some do not.

We made revisions to lessen the issues, but it still exists with some vehicles - REGARDLESS of the brand of Relocation Brackets.

I had two cars in the shop recently....one car, bolting the brackets on went smooth and PERFECTLY square. The next car, the brackets causes a 1/4" shift - but was able to be corrected by maneuvering the brackets. Actually, I had another one (so 3) recently too. He brought the car in, I aligned the brackets.....then he later messaged me and said the wheels were off again. I have no clue what his issue is, but it is extremely rare that the brackets cannot be aligned. Even when they are not aligned perfectly, they still retain OEM Spec Thrust angle.

These pieces are now our #2 selling item at BMR, out of the hundreds of parts we offer for Ford, GM and Mopar.

Thousands ship out. Thousands of customers "bolt-on and go"

So, I would not worry about it. If you do have an issue with the BMR version, well you have the company who started the Relocation Bracket fad in 2004....and knows more about them than anyone, at your fingertips to help resolve the issue.

Good Luck!
 

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