6.4 Powerstroke Teardown/Build thread

MTBSully

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2009
Messages
4,243
Location
Portsmouth, NH
My buddy is going through the same thing with his 6.4. Except he is paying a shop to do it. ARP studs, gaskets, New up pipes, 72mm atmowheel turbo, new heads with fresh machining, lifters, gearhead tuning etc. Big $$$$$
 

mrlrd1

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2009
Messages
1,155
Location
USA
The internet likes to spread that rumor, but the Ford service manual has instructions to do every single job on the truck cab off as well as cab on. The only part that is truly a pain with the cab on is getting to the uppipe bolts on the back of the turbos. Other than that it's pretty straight forward.

Internet rumor? Intelligent people spread this service tip. Work smarter, not harder. Pulling the cab saves both time and your body. If you can't pull the cab due to aftermarket crap, then and only then you suck it up. Lack of a lift is no excuse: I've pulled a cab with 7 friends/neighbors in my driveway.

Cab/body removal became popular back in 99 when the new DOHC Navigator heads were failing. We had FSEs at our shop looking at our books because our punch times didn't jive. They found us removing the body and started cutting labor times even though no mention of body removal in SLTS.
 
Last edited:

rotor_powerd

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Premium Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2008
Messages
7,412
Location
VA
Internet rumor? Intelligent people spread this service tip. Work smarter, not harder. Pulling the cab saves both time and your body. If you can't pull the cab due to aftermarket crap, then and only then you suck it up. Lack of a lift is no excuse: I've pulled a cab with 7 friends/neighbors in my driveway.

Cab/body removal became popular back in 99 when the new DOHC Navigator heads were failing. We had FSEs at our shop looking at our books because our punch times didn't jive. They found us removing the body and started cutting labor times even though no mention of body removal in SLTS.

Internet rumor that you can't pull the heads with the cab on, not that it's the best way to do so.

Good for you and your 7 friends, champ. I beat the book time of 22.9 hours by myself with the cab on when I did my headgaskets, so obviously it's no faster or slower.
 

DieselDr

Member
Established Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2015
Messages
66
Location
Houston, TX
Internet rumor that you can't pull the heads with the cab on, not that it's the best way to do so.

Good for you and your 7 friends, champ. I beat the book time of 22.9 hours by myself with the cab on when I did my headgaskets, so obviously it's no faster or slower.
Pulling the cab allows a much more professional job. Good for you tackling this in the driveway. To say it is no faster than pulling the cab is ridiculous. Don't be silly. Doing the job last time without doing lifters was silly. Take ur time and keep up the good work.
 

rtusnake

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2004
Messages
1,822
Location
Lincoln, AL
Pulling the cab allows a much more professional job. Good for you tackling this in the driveway. To say it is no faster than pulling the cab is ridiculous. Don't be silly. Doing the job last time without doing lifters was silly. Take ur time and keep up the good work.

Welcome to the site lol
 

rotor_powerd

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Premium Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2008
Messages
7,412
Location
VA
Pulling the cab allows a much more professional job. Good for you tackling this in the driveway. To say it is no faster than pulling the cab is ridiculous. Don't be silly. Doing the job last time without doing lifters was silly. Take ur time and keep up the good work.

You spend an hour or two on either end of the job R&R'ing the cab, I spend that hour or two R&R'ing the coolers. Don't get me wrong, I'd pull the cab if it was an option for me but I don't believe that it's faster. There's a local guy here that will come onsite with his buddy and do 6.0 and 6.4 headgaskets/studs in a Saturday, cab on obviously.

As far as not replacing the lifters when I did the gaskets - yeah, I should have. I pulled them and looked at them and they looked fine, but you're right it would have been cheap insurance - assuming that my problem is a lifter and not something more serious.
 

rotor_powerd

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Premium Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2008
Messages
7,412
Location
VA
Heads are off. All lifters look perfect. #1 piston doesn't come proud of the deck like it should and isn't sitting level in the bore. Turning the crank by hand, it sticks when #1 piston hits BDC, like a bent rod hitting a counter weight. Going to pull the block, put a new rod in and a set of coated IH HD pistons and call it good. Probably will replace that injector as well.

7951D009-8756-4FF3-9DE5-04ABBEBDDCA5_zpsksjeulme.jpg
 

gt347mustang

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2006
Messages
2,484
Location
Colorado
Bummer dude. That sucks!

Looks like the truck is living up to its reputation of being super expensive to own. Keep us posted on what you find.
 

rotor_powerd

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Premium Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2008
Messages
7,412
Location
VA
Damn that sucks. I hope it doesn't dent the wallet too much. Good luck!

The whole truck is just one big dent to the wallet. :D

Bummer dude. That sucks!

Looks like the truck is living up to its reputation of being super expensive to own. Keep us posted on what you find.

It certainly is costly... But worth it when it's running right. Not sure it would be my choice of truck if I depended on it day to day, the 6.7 seems better suited for that.
 

rotor_powerd

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Premium Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2008
Messages
7,412
Location
VA
This is #1. You can't really tell from this picture but it's flush with the deck, it should be a little bit out of the hole. Also the side that is closest to the camera is sitting lower than the opposite side.

32110428-D343-4D12-9306-910DCE11EA57_zpsniedi5iq.jpg
 

DieselDr

Member
Established Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2015
Messages
66
Location
Houston, TX
Bummer dude. That sucks!

Looks like the truck is living up to its reputation of being super expensive to own. Keep us posted on what you find.

Keep in mind this truck is modded. It is producing twice the torque it left the factory with on stock rods. U have to pay to play.
 

MYGT500

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2006
Messages
924
Location
columbus ohio
You can't afford a 6.4 that is out of warranty. A friend of mine 6.4 blew up with 17k on the clock..dealer
says 20k to fix
 

rotor_powerd

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Premium Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2008
Messages
7,412
Location
VA
Keep in mind this truck is modded. It is producing twice the torque it left the factory with on stock rods. U have to pay to play.

Yep. That's how it goes. I'm betting that the injector on that hole hung open.

You can't afford a 6.4 that is out of warranty. A friend of mine 6.4 blew up with 17k on the clock..dealer
says 20k to fix
That's the cost of a new longblock.... either he blew it up real good or the dealer is lazy
 
Last edited:

SID297

OWNER/ADMIN
Administrator
Joined
Mar 27, 2003
Messages
55,753
Location
Myrtle Beach, SC
The piston itself doesn't look bad. I'll be interested to see if there's slop in the wrist pin or if the bearing look rough.


I've resolved myself to do something very expensive and time consuming with my next truck purchase (which won't be for several more years hopefully). I'm going to pull the motor and build it the way I want it from day one. New rods and pistons, fix the weak links, etc.


I would consider doing that with my 6.4, but at this point there's too many weaknesses that can't be completely eliminated from them (which is always subject to change). The rockers, lifters, cracking blocks with studs, cracking heads, bedplate leaks, etc.
 

rotor_powerd

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Premium Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2008
Messages
7,412
Location
VA
I'd expect some abnormal bearing wear if I ran it for longer than I did since the rod is bent and probably loading the bearing unevenly. I drove it for less than 10 miles after I first noticed it ticking, and idled it for maybe 15 minutes after that to try and figure out where the noise was.

I'm putting in the HD pistons so I don't have to deal with a cracked piston down the road. My bedplate has been leaking for a while so I'll get to fix that too. I'm considering just buying a brand new HPFP and putting it in too just for peace of mind.
 
Last edited:

1969Fastback

*OG Crew*
Established Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2004
Messages
2,567
Location
houston
in for results.


just sold my 2008 F250. Had no issues with it during the lifetime of ownership. Owned since new, had dpf delete, cai, spartan tunes up to 310.


Only issue I had.... ONLY issue was the ****ing radiator. One busted at 36k miles and I replaced that one again @ 103k miles.
 

SID297

OWNER/ADMIN
Administrator
Joined
Mar 27, 2003
Messages
55,753
Location
Myrtle Beach, SC
in for results.


just sold my 2008 F250. Had no issues with it during the lifetime of ownership. Owned since new, had dpf delete, cai, spartan tunes up to 310.


Only issue I had.... ONLY issue was the ****ing radiator. One busted at 36k miles and I replaced that one again @ 103k miles.

Thankfully the radiator problem has been figured out.
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top