Lol, don't do that.
There's a reason we all rip that pos out - it strips too easily.
The setup you currently have is the best, go with it.
Bdubbs twin disc clutch swap thread:
- Thread starter Bdubbs
- Start date
Lol, don't do that.
There's a reason we all rip that pos out - it strips too easily.
The setup you currently have is the best, go with it.
Tried the box end method, no luck. I sprayed the bolts down I'll let them soak awhile. I may have to rotate the driveshaft to gain access to the others.
I gave up on that for now and got 2 out of the 3 starter bolts out. Man long tube headers make it a PITA.
I'll likely stick with what I have. May try the Steeda quick release quadrant this time.
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Look for a 12 point swivel socket. I have one just for the drive shaft bolts. Its impact rated just in case my 3' breaker bar doesn't work.
I ran the quick release in the past. TBH I didn't really notice anything quick with it. Accept it put the cable at a hard angle coming out of the firewall. I ended up swapping it for a MM piece later on. With both set ups I ran the pedal height adjuster. My opinion is of what you have is working stick with it.
I appreciate the help. I'll look for a 12 pt swivel. Are you using 3/8 or 1/2?
I think I'll keep my current adjuster and quadrant. I'm also running a pedal height adjuster, and the LDC free play mod.
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I've heard that but haven't seen it, I know you daily one of your cars has it happened to you?
When swapping to a twin disc clutch you're drastically dropping the pedal effort which should extend the life of a part that was designed by Ford to run a long time. I love mine, when I get done swapping my cams in I just hook the cable back up to the Fork, drop the pedal once or twice and its ready to go again.
yup that was also my thought with my coupe - I put in a RXT but kept the stock quadrant thinking it should be fine with the light pedal.
It lasted about a year i think, but still started giving me issues where it would not keep the cable tight and would skip teeth. I had to start doing the thing underdash where I would have to manually tighten it by moving the pawl up one tooth. The thing about the stock setup is that it only automatically loosens the cable, it doesn't tighten it for you.
I am pretty hard on my cars, maybe that has a lot to do with it, but I like the strength and adjustability of the aftermarket piece much better.
It's a 3/8" drive. I don't think a 1/2" would fit in the spot.
Yes I did, I'll try again.
Shoot, I have a 1/2" I ordered.
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Only put 2 starter bolts back in. I have had longtubes on mine for ~ 30,000 miles (MAC's originally and ARH currently) and only 2 bolts. Makes install and removal a lot quicker.
The 2 wrench method should take care of it. This has always been my method for driveshaft. Get one loose. Take car out of gear, turn drive shaft, put in gear and break another loose, repeat.
I already removed the shifter. The e-brake should work, no?
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It should. I usually have the wife or kid sit in the car while I loosen the bolts. That way I don't have to keep getting up.
I made some progress today. The driveshaft bolts were a pain for me. Even one bolt with my 1/2" cordless impact took some patience. I can't imagine people actually torque these to spec when reinstalling?
The top bolt on the transmission that everyone complains about came out easy for me. Still have bell housing, starter, and obviously old clutch.
I found the tranny jack to help out lowering it down, but wouldn't clear underneath. So I had to slide it off and drag it out. I imagine it will help when bolting it back together.
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The top bolt on the transmission that everyone complains about came out easy for me. Still have bell housing, starter, and obviously old clutch.
I found the tranny jack to help out lowering it down, but wouldn't clear underneath. So I had to slide it off and drag it out. I imagine it will help when bolting it back together.
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Ok good to know on the transmission stand. gonna pick 1 up in the next month.
On the jack stands I had to go bigger since the 6R80 is a couple inches taller then the t56/magnum with out the bell housing attached.Got them a month back w/ 20%, $87 out the door a pair. At a starting height of 19 1/2" and a max height of 30 1/8".
here they are next to a 3 ton
I might be going to harbor freight soon. Where did you get yours? I also have a floor jack I'm eyeing at harbor freight.
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Yep same place, maybe call to make sure they have them in at your location.
They have a 20% off going on right now. Can be used on the jack stands but not on the floor jack(fine print). I like the pitt jack I picked up from them, but I don't see it listed now. gonna see if I can find the part #
They have a 20% off going on right now. Can be used on the jack stands but not on the floor jack(fine print). I like the pitt jack I picked up from them, but I don't see it listed now. gonna see if I can find the part #
I’ve never torqued mine. Just crank them down the same way I took them out with a generous load of blue loctite
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So can't find any #'s but here is the 1 I picked up.
If you do pick 1 up from HBF. Take the top cover off(between that brass nipple and handle base) remove the screw/plug and add fluid as these sometimes come with little to none in the pumps.
If you get the car up higher off the ground maybe could get better leverage on pesky bolts. With a beaker bar or a pipe to slip over your wrench.
I didn't have a issue with the DS bolts(did the put in gear and Ebrake thing). But the bell to engine block bolts was a pain with LT headers right there. Till I grabbed the 1/2 impact. For my ease of removing those on the last 1 I got a nice little kick back/skip. Right to my front tooth it's a little chipped but not full on cletis.
If you get the car up higher off the ground maybe could get better leverage on pesky bolts. With a beaker bar or a pipe to slip over your wrench.
I didn't have a issue with the DS bolts(did the put in gear and Ebrake thing). But the bell to engine block bolts was a pain with LT headers right there. Till I grabbed the 1/2 impact. For my ease of removing those on the last 1 I got a nice little kick back/skip. Right to my front tooth it's a little chipped but not full on cletis.
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