Bdubbs twin disc clutch swap thread:

[Bdubbs]

Hello fellow svtp friends. I'm starting this thread because I'm sure I'll have many questions along the way. I'm hoping for some helpful advice. I've never done a clutch before, so please bare with me. I also have ARH long tube headers.

I didn't plan on doing this so late in the season, but my promotion finally had enough of the power I was throwing at it.

Today I only got the car off the ground. I'm sure I'll have to go up a bit higher.

I'm also wondering if a low profile tranny jack is a good idea, and which one?

Here is the mod list:

- Centerforce twin disc dyad.
- Ford tob and pilot bearing.
- New OEM clutch cable.
- Steeda quick release quadrant. I'm currently running the fiore, not sure which is better?
- Royal purple fluid.

I'll slowly be working on this as time permits. I also have the Ford CD shop manual, so that so should help.

I'll be keeping this thread updated, and likely add pictures along the way.

I was told the stock pivot ball should work? Any other parts I should consider? Seals and gaskets?

Floor jack I'm looking at:

800 lbs. Low Lift Transmission Jack

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[cj428mach]

In!

 

[cj428mach]

Stock pivot should work. Im running stock pivot on the magnum. The DYAD is just a hair taller most dont adjust the pivot with it. Originally on my t56 i shortened it, on the magnum space is a premium so i went stock pivot.

 

[Bdubbs]

Stock pivot should work. Im running stock pivot on the magnum. The DYAD is just a hair taller most dont adjust the pivot with it. Originally on my t56 i shortened it, on the magnum space is a premium so i went stock pivot.

Awesome. I'll be asking you plenty of questions.

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[apex svt]

Have a half inch impact, a long extension and a “built in” swivel socket(don’t know what they are called) for both the Bell housing bolts and starter. Separate the trans from the Bell housing.
I know my clutch said no loc Tite needed, but I used it anyways I’d recommend it. And probably a 6’er for when you try to put the trans in, mine was a bitch getting through both discs and into the pilot.

 

[Bdubbs]

Have a half inch impact, a long extension and a “built in” swivel socket(don’t know what they are called) for both the Bell housing bolts and starter. Separate the trans from the Bell housing.
I know my clutch said no loc Tite needed, but I used it anyways I’d recommend it. And probably a 6’er for when you try to put the trans in, mine was a bitch getting through both discs and into the pilot.

I don't have a impact, nor a decent air compressor.

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[98 Saleen Cobra]

Only thing I'd switch is the fluid from RP, to Amsoil ATF..

 

[Roots-type]

Not a bad time to slip in a new rear main seal

 

[Bdubbs]

Only thing I'd switch is the fluid from RP, to Amsoil ATF..

Hmm, I've had very good luck with the syncromax.

Not a bad time to slip in a new rear main seal

Good idea.

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[98 Saleen Cobra]

I've ran syncromax in my magnum and it was good.. Switched to Amsoil ATF and it was leaps and bounds better. It was so good I got the shop to change from RP to Amsoil..

 

[MG0h3]

I got the cheaper harbor freight trans jack. Has kind of a concave plate or v shaped I guess. Worked great. You won’t be getting it out from under the car, just slide it back as far as you can.

Did tons of clutches with no air back in high school. It’s not too bad and if you don’t wrench a lot not worth it.

Regarding disc alignment, you’ll notice the alignment tool will sort of sag if you just stick it in there and start tightening the PP bolts down. Use one hand to push it into the pilot bearing and hold it so it’s actually aligning the discs while you tighten the PP bolts.

Use a star pattern or whatever centerforce says for the PP bolts.

Damn only thing you really want air for is getting the flywheel bolts out. Gonna have to use a prybar against a dowel. They are loctited from the factory so you’ll be using some muscle getting them out.


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[Bdubbs]

I've ran syncromax in my magnum and it was good.. Switched to Amsoil ATF and it was leaps and bounds better. It was so good I got the shop to change from RP to Amsoil..

I may have to consider it then. Sucks I already have the rp.

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[98 Saleen Cobra]

I'd be willing you can take it back to where ever you bought it from. So on my magnum I had a slight grind in cold weather in 1st and 2nd.. put the ATF in it and it all went away. and it shifted so much smoother

 

[Bdubbs]

I got the cheaper harbor freight trans jack. Has kind of a concave plate or v shaped I guess. Worked great. You won’t be getting it out from under the car, just slide it back as far as you can.

Did tons of clutches with no air back in high school. It’s not too bad and if you don’t wrench a lot not worth it.

Regarding disc alignment, you’ll notice the alignment tool will sort of sag if you just stick it in there and start tightening the PP bolts down. Use one hand to push it into the pilot bearing and hold it so it’s actually aligning the discs while you tighten the PP bolts.

Use a star pattern or whatever centerforce says for the PP bolts.

Damn only thing you really want air for is getting the flywheel bolts out. Gonna have to use a prybar against a dowel. They are loctited from the factory so you’ll be using some muscle getting them out.


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Cool. I may have to check out harbor freight. There is one about 20 minutes from me.

Will a cordless impact work? I've always thought about buying one.

I've also thought about buying a ram steel alignment tool.

I'd be willing you can take it back to where ever you bought it from. So on my magnum I had a slight grind in cold weather in 1st and 2nd.. put the ATF in it and it all went away. and it shifted so much smoother

Unfortunately, I bought this stuff a few years ago. Maybe I shouldn't use it.

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[MG0h3]

Cool. I may have to check out harbor freight. There is one about 20 minutes from me.

Will a cordless impact work? I've always thought about buying one.

I've also thought about buying a ram steel alignment tool.Unfortunately, I bought this stuff a few years ago. Maybe I shouldn't use it.

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An electric impact would make life easier for sure.

Not sure if you have to separate the trans from bell due to your headers or not.

Either way, you need a pretty long extension to get the upper bell housing bolts. You’ll also need at minimum a swivel type socket. Preferably a 1/2” extension that necks down to 3/8 so you can run a smaller socket. It’s tight up there.


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[Bdubbs]

An electric impact would make life easier for sure.

Not sure if you have to separate the trans from bell due to your headers or not.

Either way, you need a pretty long extension to get the upper bell housing bolts. You’ll also need at minimum a swivel type socket. Preferably a 1/2” extension that necks down to 3/8 so you can run a smaller socket. It’s tight up there.


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Yup, I'll be separating the transmission from the bell housing.

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[01yellercobra]

I have a Dewalt cordless impact and I reach for it 90% of the time. I only use the air impact if I'm getting into something heavy like my truck. Even swapping wheels is nicer with the cordless.

I would definitely separate the trans from the bellhousing. It's just easier to deal with the top bellhousing bolts that way.

They make adapters that replace the puck with a piece that holds the tranny. But you don't get the four direction movement you get with a normal tranny jack.

 

[papajoewill]

Good luck dude!

 

[Bdubbs]

I have a Dewalt cordless impact and I reach for it 90% of the time. I only use the air impact if I'm getting into something heavy like my truck. Even swapping wheels is nicer with the cordless.

I would definitely separate the trans from the bellhousing. It's just easier to deal with the top bellhousing bolts that way.

They make adapters that replace the puck with a piece that holds the tranny. But you don't get the four direction movement you get with a normal tranny jack.

I just ordered a Neiko cordless impact. I've been wanting one for awhile.

I've seen the jack adapter, but feel a tranny jack will be better.

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[Khan]

No need for power tools.

One think that I will recommend and I learnt this the hard way a couple of times. Get a metal alignment tool. The plastics ones work but they suck when you bolt the bellhousing and realize that the transmission input shaft and clutch splines are not lining up properly. Then you have to unbolt bellhousing and undo the clutch and start from scratch and hope everything lines up. But with the metal alignment tool, its a breeze. Also this would be a good time to replace the rear main seal.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ram-03-013/overview/

You will thank me later.