Listen the tanks get moisture. Some dealers also cheap out and dont get motorcraft. I have been at a dealer for a long time. The moisture will probably never hurt anything. Id feel safer with seales bottles.
Which oil to use?? (for me)
- Thread starter grabber blue gt
- Start date
Listen the tanks get moisture. Some dealers also cheap out and dont get motorcraft. I have been at a dealer for a long time. The moisture will probably never hurt anything. Id feel safer with seales bottles.
Yeah exactly as most of you said I HATEEEEE taking my car anywhere to have any type of work done. I do all my own oil changes/work on this car and that will never change lol. My fusion I bring to the dealer for oil changes just cause I dont want to bother with jacking it up, draining, getting dirty, etc. but thats also a lease so if anything happens its on them and its there car in another 18 months.
I have decided on going with the Amsoil or Royal purple 5w30 though. Most likely going to go with the Amsoil signature series. Havent seen much talk about filters in here though. Most of you sticking with the motorcraft filter?
I have decided on going with the Amsoil or Royal purple 5w30 though. Most likely going to go with the Amsoil signature series. Havent seen much talk about filters in here though. Most of you sticking with the motorcraft filter?
I don't like going to doctors and I think this fear transcends to service depts. I buy my filters in bulk and pick up oil from wally world. most auto parts stores have a free recycled oil tank in the back. I save time, money and peace of mind doing it this way. too many stealership horror stories.
This. Besides like 10 guys on this forum had the dealer do an oil change and they only put in 5 qts. Thats what you get for being lazy. Its an oil change. Have some pride and do it yourself.
Yeah, and just remember, that's a tech making $10/hr changing your oil. He doesn't care about your car. My gf took her Jetta for oil changes the first 40k miles she had her car before I started doing them. The first time I went to change her oil I noticed half of the screws were missing out of the skid plate underneath the engine. They didn't fall out, the lazy ****s that changed her oil previously probably dropped them and didn't bother to pick them up and put them back in.
All I have to say is, back a year or so ago, at the monster jam here in Houston Texas the Royal Purple monster truck was in town, and I arrived pretty early as I like to creep on the outside tailor area. I saw them putting amsoil into the that big block chevy...
It gets talked up so much, but in the end I have never heard anything special about RP, but they seem to like amsoil LOL
It gets talked up so much, but in the end I have never heard anything special about RP, but they seem to like amsoil LOL
I wish we had dealerships in the Tulsa area that make things so convenient like some of you mentioned.... I went to the dealer I bought my car from for my first free oil change and it took them 3 1/2 hours...
Amsoil filter.
This is true. Even at the dealerships they will hire anybody, even people with NO experience what so ever. And most of them really do not give a cats meow about the vehicles they are working on. I've worked with guys that would purposely put the wrong grade of oil into a vehicle, and other silly things just because they did not like the "brand" of the vehicle. A lot of the places like "jiffy lube" will purposly put only half the hardware back into the skid plates, reason being if the car comes back for oil changes in the future, its a lot less work and saves time. Or they just happen to "forget" to put it back on. They also only allow a 3 minute drain, to save time. So keep that in mind.
There is going to be the odd guy out there that takes pride in his work, and will appreciate you car enough to treat it like his own while working on it. But from my experience you're odds of getting "that" guy changing the oil on your car, are pretty slim.
Last edited:
I haven't seen unleashed_beast make a comment on this thread. He is our local oil guru. I'm going to forward this thread to him.
I would highly consider what he has to say...
I would highly consider what he has to say...
My first post quoted him...
definitely going 5w30 next change. either mobil 1 ep or pu.
Not confirmed to be 100% accurate. Mobil 1 uses a percentage of VISOM (group III hydrocracked) in everything they formulate now.
Why 10W-30?
Now compare Mobil 1 5W-30 to a true synthetic 10W-30. The results will be closer. If you do not constantly use your car in sub 32*F weather, 5W-30 is not required if you are using a true synthetic.
Since you can use Amsoil Signature Series up to 15,000 miles or one year, whichever occur first....you will invest less money than using cheaper oil. When you add up the slight mpg increase, and lower NOACK Volatility (evaporation), it just makes since.
I'm VERY interested in seeing Pennzoil Ultra API SN used oil analysis in the UOA thread. I want to see how the new "gas to liquid" base stocks hold up to abuse.
Last edited:
What I do know about Royal Purple....
Do not use the base formulation that is commonly found at your local Auto Parts stores. Internet order either HPS or XPR. I have not been impressed with the base formulation in UOAs, as it does not contain the robust additive package using synerlec that RP is infamous for.
Coming this summer, I will have a side by side comparison of Amsoil Signature Series 10W-30 versus Royal Purple 5W-30 (base) both used for one year intervals in the same engine. This should be very interesting.
Last edited:
I just changed my oil and used Castrol 5w50 full Syn
I use Mobil 1 or RP. Meijer by me sells M1 for $25 for 5 qts and $5 for each additional. Then i stop by a local auto parts store and grab ANYTHING BUT a fram filter
but thanks to Unleashed i think ill be looking into 10w30 as well
but thanks to Unleashed i think ill be looking into 10w30 as well
Last edited:
Users who are viewing this thread
