Which oil to use?? (for me)

[grabber blue gt]

I know I know, there are tons of oil threads, but I am asking which oil for me in particular. Now that spring is rolling around I want to change my oil I figured I'll be under there anyway for the header install so why not. I am in NYC area where it doesnt get too hot here in summer usually 70-90 throughout summer.

My car is no longer a daily driver so when I do drive it, I tend to be a little harder on it that I normally used to. Car only has 12k on it, and my first oil change at 5500 I used Mobil 1 5w-20 and got the tick for 200mi then it went away. My second oil change I did at 10k with the same Mobil 1 5w-20 and got the tick back which is still heard now with 1500-2k on the oil.

I am looking to switch to Amsoil or Royal purple, whichever you guys think is best. I was thinking, maybe I should switch to 5w-30 instead of 5w-20 to give a little extra protection to the valve train and quiet it down a little bit (maybe hopefully get rid of the tick). I will still use the OEM motorcraft filter unless there is a better filter out there.

Open to any suggestions, I am no oil expert

 

[merlinmol]

I have Royal Purple HPS 5w30 in mine currently, its good, have had it on one of the local race tracks (not drag strip) recently and no issues, that was with 5k on the oil. Supposed to last for 10k but I will probably change it at 7500

 

[5PNTSLW]

I referenced this thread when I made my decision:

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/greasy-spoon-418/858537-13-track-pack-oil.html

Wither it be RP or Amsoil, both choices have good explanation for which to use. I personally chose Amsoil because being in Richmond i can order from the warehouse and pick up same day using the preferred customer, and have used it in previous cars as well.

Motorcraft (unsheared) is too viscous in the summer for a street car. Oil pressure is too high. MC 5W-50 rapidly shears to a light 40 grade lubricant in about 2,000 miles. That's why we adopted a true synthetic 40 grade lubricant in the GT500 community that wouldn't shear and hold the viscosity.

Unless you are road racing the new GT for extended sessions, the 5W-50 recommendation is OVERKILL! The engine would function fine with a lubricant as light as a 5W-20 for grocery getting grandma driving. I'd be more prone to use a true synthetic 30 grade lubricant for street duties, aggressive street driving, and drag racing. Use a true synthetic 40 grade for road racing.

Amsoil AZO 0W-30: street northern winter formulation, better cold flow if you drive year round

Amsoil ATM 10W-30: southern "hot" street/drag

Amsoil AMO 10W-40: extended session road racing

Amsoil EaO17: oil filter choice (Royal Purple 20-500 is the same filter and a great alternate choice)

Amsoil Preferred Customer: buy everything @ 25% off internet retail prices by signing up

Anything in the 30 or 40 grade offerings in Royal Purple is a great choice/substitute for Amsoil. I prefer their HPS series.

For Ford warranty compliance use the recommended 5W-50 Motorcraft.

If warranty compliance is not a pressing issue use the following for a 5.0 GT Track Pack:
Royal Purple SAE 5W-30 (part #01530, quart bottle)(for mainly grocery getter mode)
Royal Purple HPS 5W-30 (part #31530, quart bottle)(for a very significant upgrade in performance and protection)

For Open Track and HPDE/street usage:
Royal Purple HPS 10W-40 (part #31140, quart bottle)

For Road Race/Street useage:
Royal Purple XPR 10W-40 (part #01041, quart bottle)

For maximum horsepower and drag race usage:
Royal Purple XPR 5W-20 (part #01011, quart bottle)
or
Royal Purple HPS 5W-20 (part #31520, quart bottle)

Royal Purple extended life synthetic oil filter part #20-500(available at most Pep Boys or on-line)

Due to Royal Purple HPS being a new product this year, you are not likely to find it on a local store shelf. However a special order can be done at most NAPA stores and in some regions of the USA at your local O’Reilly’s. Also in some regions Advanced Auto, and Carquest may also be able to special order HPS for you.

If getting HPS or RP oil filters locally does not work out it is definitely available and shipping online at:

Lucky7trucks.com: HPS High Performance Street Oil - Lucky 7 Truck Accessories
Summit Racing: Royal Purple at SummitRacing.com: synthetic motor oil, coolant additives, gear lube, transmission fluid, assembly lube & more
Pace Performance: Pace Performance
Amazon.com

 

[grabber blue gt]

Alright after reading this I think I may just go with the 5w30. Dont forget though my car is a 2012 not a 2013. Factory specs suggest 5w20 on 2011-2012 and they changed it to 5w50(i think) in 2013 and had people all puzzled.

Also I forgot to mention I will be hitting the drag strip April 10. Is this oil good for drag strip use as well as the usual street beating every once ina while.

 

[scotmach]

I would use 10w-30. That's what I as well as many others use.

 

[grnenvy]

The cheapest synthetic u can find its all good.

 

[Stevedotmil]

So it looks like I'm going to have to order some Ford oil for my next oil change. Dang warranties.

 

[scotmach]

So it looks like I'm going to have to order some Ford oil for my next oil change. Dang warranties.

Wrong. You do not have to use Motorcraft to keep your warranty.

 

[grabber blue gt]

Wrong. You do not have to use Motorcraft to keep your warranty.

You just need oil that meets factory specs correct?

 

[SID297]

I have Royal Purple HPS 5w30 in mine currently, its good, have had it on one of the local race tracks (not drag strip) recently and no issues, that was with 5k on the oil. Supposed to last for 10k but I will probably change it at 7500

That would be my choice. It's a great all-around choice.

 

[scotmach]

You just need oil that meets factory specs correct?

Correct. And Ford Motorcraft is nothing special so the sky's the limit.

 

[2011brembocoyot]

I have been using Mobil1 but thinking about switching to Amsoil.

 

[kingnut]

mobil 1 extended performance makes a 5w-30 and 10w-30. both class IV synthetics like RP and AMSOIL. you can usually get it for a sweet deal at walmart.

also i dont see what 10w gains you over 5w. 5 is thinner. so easier on the engine on a cold start up. and they are both 30 rated so the same max weight.

 

[kingnut]

SAE Grade 5W-30
Viscosity, cSt (ASTM D445)
@ 100ºC 10.6
@ 40ºC 59.8
Viscosity Index 169
Sulfated Ash, wt% (ASTM D874) 0.8
HTHS Viscosity, mPa•s @ 150ºC (ASTM D4683) 3.0
Pour Point, ºC (ASTM D97) -40
Flash Point, ºC (ASTM D92) 230
Density @15.6 ºC g/ml (ASTM D4052) 0.851


SAE Grade 10W-30
Viscosity, cSt (ASTM D445)
@ 100ºC 10.2
@ 40ºC 63.7
Viscosity Index 147
Sulfated Ash, wt% (ASTM D874) 0.8
HTHS Viscosity, mPa•s @ 150ºC (ASTM D4683) 3.1
Pour Point, ºC (ASTM D97) -39
Flash Point, ºC (ASTM D92) 232
Density @15.6 ºC g/ml (ASTM D4052) 0.856

here is a breakdown of 5w-30 vs 10w-30 from mobil 1's website.

 

[01bluesnake]

You can use any oil & filter you want and should not create issue if bringing in for warranty concern. As long as the oil isn't some straight 50 weight used for racing that wiped out your bearing clearances or a no brand oil filter that fell apart and clogged some oil passages, you will be fine. The big thing that gets looked at in the dealer is sludge from irregular oil changes or those that tend to forget for 10K+ miles and the motors bail. Regular oil changes, even more so with a quality synthetic will keep you covered. Make sure you keep all your own receipts for the stuff. What i always recommend if you don't like Motorcraft oil or filter, is to bring your own and have the dealer do the oil change so its at least on file in the system. On that note, im switching over to Amsoil 10w30 for my car.

 

[acrbill]

how much are you guys spending on oil changes? I take mine to the dealer for the $30 special. When I had a shop do my clutch I bought oil change stuff and even the Motorcraft stuff and the filter was way more than $30.

 

[scotmach]

I would never let a dealer touch my car. I do all my own oil changes regardless the cost.

 

[acrbill]

I would never let a dealer touch my car. I do all my own oil changes regardless the cost.

What exactly are you afraid of?

 

[kingnut]

I would never let a dealer touch my car. I do all my own oil changes regardless the cost.

this. its to easy to change oil and i enjoy doing it. the less people driving my car the better. i dont even like them driving it into the inspection bay for my yearly inspection.

 

[scotmach]

What exactly are you afraid of?

I trust myself more than any dealer.;-)