Age. They are JDM by kooks with 18k miles. Not stainless. They didn't rust out but they are pretty rusty from sitting.
Also from my understanding arh don't hang as low.
What did you do for your Terminator today?
- Thread starter mrose75
- Start date
Also from my understanding arh don't hang as low.
That's a big looking pulley you running there, surprised its slipping? I didn't have any slipping issues until I went down to a 3in pully with my KB.
Yeah I’m surprised. I’m going to have a few days still before the tune to rip on it and see where it sits on the boost guage.
American racing makes good shit. I personally know the owner. sad that they are leaving long island.
Finished wiring in my wideband in the column mount, now I just need to have a shop weld in a bung. Also finished my diy tuner/gauge mount setup haha....and of course, gotta throw in a photo with the new daily rig...2020 Raptor in Velocity Blue
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Had a motor mount replaced. Went with a stock-style replacement. Busy this week so I had just had my local shop do it.
Should I have just done it myself? Heard everything from they are doable in 45 minutes to people talking about dropping the K member or ****ing around with them for half of a Saturday.
Do rubber ones last long on a modified but street-driven car?
Should I have gone with prothane/energy suspension poly mounts?
Should I have just done it myself? Heard everything from they are doable in 45 minutes to people talking about dropping the K member or ****ing around with them for half of a Saturday.
Do rubber ones last long on a modified but street-driven car?
Should I have gone with prothane/energy suspension poly mounts?
I think replacement time depends on what K member you have. I had to drop my K a little to clear the studs on the new mounts. I have yet to run poly mounts on my cars. If these replacements tear I'll go poly.
Been working on a side project. Converting a 200amp alternator into an externally regulated unit. All plug and play.
Got it swapped onto the car. I need to hook it up to a spare battery to set the voltage, I don’t want to damage anything on the car if it’s set too high out of the gate. I’ll test it tomorrow, then finish running the wires neatly.
Hope it works. It will be a fraction of the cost of the big name alternators out there. Worse case, I’ll need to buy a better voltage regulator if I can’t dial this into what I want.
Got it swapped onto the car. I need to hook it up to a spare battery to set the voltage, I don’t want to damage anything on the car if it’s set too high out of the gate. I’ll test it tomorrow, then finish running the wires neatly.
Hope it works. It will be a fraction of the cost of the big name alternators out there. Worse case, I’ll need to buy a better voltage regulator if I can’t dial this into what I want.
Dude, keep us updated on how this goes.
Nice bling.
Took mine to a show to put some miles on it before it gets on the dynoView attachment 1766955View attachment 1766956View attachment 1766957
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You'll be fine. I put poly mounts on my car when I had the engine rebuilt. They're definitely stiffer.
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What he said. I was trying to find some info on converting my spare to an external regulator, but I didn't find a lot of info.
Shit started going downhill when i went to pick up my car after i shipped it from Hawaii to Los Angelos. about 4hrs into my 6hr trip my water pump completely took a shit. I'm talking bearings exploded and the pulley was wobbly as hell. i managed to pull off into a gas station and have my wife bring me a new pump and parts and i changed it out in a parking lot. it sucked, but luckily my inside belt only lost 1 rib and i was able to get the pump in and back down the road.
fast forward like a month and.. My car has been down for about 2 weeks as I seem to be installing one kit only to need another.
This all started because I was losing coolant somewhere and couldn't quite track it down. I've been pointing fingers at the oil cooler for what seems like years now as I've rebuilt it with new O-rings twice now. The POS was too far gone I think. I had lots of pitting and still seemed to have drips coming from it so I replaced it with a MMR Oil filter relocation kit. Awesome kit, the AN hoses that came with it where a pain in the ass to install but whatever.
Its all done so I move onto coolant web surrounding the thermostat. I tried to hack the hoses I already had and even add in some barbed connectors before I just said f-it and bought a new MMR thermostat housing.
My biggest complaint with MMR is the lack of decent pictures or instructions I guess? I took it as I'm a big boy so I should know what I'm doing sort of thing and that's what I did. I found a fitting to run the overflow tank to the new housing so I wouldn't need to change that bit or add a remote can someplace else. My question here and what I thought I was doing correctly until I got my car up to operating temp and realized I may have flipped my thermostat in backwards. I had the spring towards the radiator and the point towards the engine. Car got up to 210 and the hose was cold so that answered my question on correct orientation I believe. (spring away from radiator).
Crossover delete is in, going from engine to Y-block to radiator, radiator to Thermostat housing w/ branch off to the coolant reservoir to engine block/oil filter relocation plate.
My heater hoses are leaking now, or maybe just a side effect of the thermostat being in wrong?
fast forward like a month and.. My car has been down for about 2 weeks as I seem to be installing one kit only to need another.
This all started because I was losing coolant somewhere and couldn't quite track it down. I've been pointing fingers at the oil cooler for what seems like years now as I've rebuilt it with new O-rings twice now. The POS was too far gone I think. I had lots of pitting and still seemed to have drips coming from it so I replaced it with a MMR Oil filter relocation kit. Awesome kit, the AN hoses that came with it where a pain in the ass to install but whatever.
Its all done so I move onto coolant web surrounding the thermostat. I tried to hack the hoses I already had and even add in some barbed connectors before I just said f-it and bought a new MMR thermostat housing.
My biggest complaint with MMR is the lack of decent pictures or instructions I guess? I took it as I'm a big boy so I should know what I'm doing sort of thing and that's what I did. I found a fitting to run the overflow tank to the new housing so I wouldn't need to change that bit or add a remote can someplace else. My question here and what I thought I was doing correctly until I got my car up to operating temp and realized I may have flipped my thermostat in backwards. I had the spring towards the radiator and the point towards the engine. Car got up to 210 and the hose was cold so that answered my question on correct orientation I believe. (spring away from radiator).
Crossover delete is in, going from engine to Y-block to radiator, radiator to Thermostat housing w/ branch off to the coolant reservoir to engine block/oil filter relocation plate.
My heater hoses are leaking now, or maybe just a side effect of the thermostat being in wrong?
Was under the rear bumper working on restoring the plastic valance and took a peak around the undercarriage. Noticed my diff is damp at the bottom so that is fun. Not sure if that is a project I want to tackle, looks like a lot of work. Also been thinking of what direction to go. Feel like I wanna tackle suspension and brakes, feel like I want to upgrade but cant decide.
Mines was leaning too when I went to replace the diff cover. I think it was leaking at the cv axles. I’ll be tackling mine this winter along with bushings and all that. Good luck!
Hmm, maybe that is it then. I haven't actually gotten it up in the air myself yet. When I had it looked at early this year when I purchased I was told a shock was leaking but don't that would run down that way given the shock is off to the side. It's been a wild summer and hasn't gotten a lot of time with the car since I've gotten it. There are some drops on the exhaust right in front of the diff as well or what looks like dried spots. Also, a whirling kinda scraping noise and I can't tell what it is. It sorta sounds like the exhaust since it just has some mufflers welded in but who knows? I need to give it a good once over on the brakes and suspension stuff.
Had I been prepared I would have replaced the seals for the axels but I wasn’t prepared when I put the diff cover on
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