Buddy03Cody... thats LOW dude
The truth about cut springs!
- Thread starter ShaneN.
- Start date
- Status
I took it to the alignment shop yesterday. It definetly needed some adjusting. Would recomend it if you drop this much. The front ended up a little negative, the back a little positive,camber wise. as far as it would adjust stock. so as long as I rotate them every couple thousand they will wear good. I dont have CC plates yet. Oh ya. it handles pretty sick! I freaking love this car...
:thumbsup: :burnout:
:thumbsup: :burnout:
Last edited:
Can the Convertible springs be cut or only the coupe springs?
I purchased the stock springs from a MCT member that did the same thing to his car. I had him cut them like postban posted. The car seems to ride and handle very well, but I haven't had the chance to put many miles on it since I installed them to tell you much more.
I like the look it gave the car, my main goal was to get rid of the rake. I wanted the car to sit level. My recommedation would be to purchase a set of stock springs and cut them and see if you like the ride. You are looking at about 50.00 - 75.00 and around 2 hours of install time.
Picture with cut springs w/stock isolators, cut 1/2 coil in front and 3/4 coil in rear.
Wow...that looks perfect!!! Do you still like the cut stock springs??? Did it settle even more after driving it for a some time??? Any problems????
Thanks...
Later...Dave
I am still happy with the ride from the car and would recommend it to any Terminator owner. I have had no problems at all from the cut springs, it rides a little stiffer but not bad at all.
I have a 97 Cobra also that was lowered and it rides WAY stiffer than the 03, my wife is always wanting to take the 03 out in the summer and never complains about the ride in it. The 97 is a different story when she is in it!
I think it may have settled down a little more, I will see if I have any other pictures from last summer and post them up.
I have a 97 Cobra also that was lowered and it rides WAY stiffer than the 03, my wife is always wanting to take the 03 out in the summer and never complains about the ride in it. The 97 is a different story when she is in it!
I think it may have settled down a little more, I will see if I have any other pictures from last summer and post them up.
Damn this is an old thread, but here ya go...
And I still get out the hole just fine at the track....
I guess I'll give my $.02
I have done dozens of Cobras and everyone was happy with the results.
Cutting the stock springs gives you EXACTLY the ride height you desire, without having to remove isloators to achieve it.
I have 1 coil cut from the front and H&R race springs on the rear of my car and I think it sits perfect! (3/4 coil in the rear would give you the exact same thing but I had a set of H&R rears so I used them.)
Here's another car I did with 3/4 front and 5/8 rear.
Here's me cutting a set of rears for another SVTP member.
I would not hesitate for a minute to do it again.
Hope this helps.
I have done dozens of Cobras and everyone was happy with the results.
Cutting the stock springs gives you EXACTLY the ride height you desire, without having to remove isloators to achieve it.
I have 1 coil cut from the front and H&R race springs on the rear of my car and I think it sits perfect! (3/4 coil in the rear would give you the exact same thing but I had a set of H&R rears so I used them.)
Here's another car I did with 3/4 front and 5/8 rear.
Here's me cutting a set of rears for another SVTP member.
I would not hesitate for a minute to do it again.
Hope this helps.
Thanks guys!!!
These cars look great and the drop is for "free" to boot!!!
IMO, you can't go wrong with that.
Any alignment concerns??? With only a mild drop, do you still need an alignment??? I'm goin' to do it anyways but I was just wondering???
Thanks again guys!!!
Later...Dave
These cars look great and the drop is for "free" to boot!!!
IMO, you can't go wrong with that.
Any alignment concerns??? With only a mild drop, do you still need an alignment??? I'm goin' to do it anyways but I was just wondering???
Thanks again guys!!!
Later...Dave
04 sleeper...
Regarding the spring cutting pictures:
I take it the top pictures were 3/4 coil cut from the rear springs and the bottom pictures were 1 coil cut from the front springs???
What kinda cutter is that??? Brand, how much, etc.??? I'm sure that's a lot easier then cutting with a hack saw right!!!
LOL
BTW, your car looks perfect but I don't think I could go that low...very high speed bumps in my complex. What would give me about a 1.5" gap up front and 2" gap out back??? Right now my car sits at 2" gap in the front with a 3 1/4" gap in the rear.
Any ideas since you've cut so many???
Thanks...
Later...Dave
Regarding the spring cutting pictures:
I take it the top pictures were 3/4 coil cut from the rear springs and the bottom pictures were 1 coil cut from the front springs???
What kinda cutter is that??? Brand, how much, etc.??? I'm sure that's a lot easier then cutting with a hack saw right!!!
LOL
BTW, your car looks perfect but I don't think I could go that low...very high speed bumps in my complex. What would give me about a 1.5" gap up front and 2" gap out back??? Right now my car sits at 2" gap in the front with a 3 1/4" gap in the rear.
Any ideas since you've cut so many???
Thanks...
Later...Dave
For the record
Any coil spring that is shortened will increase in rate, linear or progressive.
The increase in rate on a progressive is usually more since the "soft" part of the coil is what is available to get cut. A cut linear rate spring will increase in rate less than a cut progressive.
An alignment should always be done.
Preferably the car should be "bumped" or have the bump steer checked at the NEW RIDE HEIGHT and adjusted to minimize it's negative effects on handling.
This all depends on how much the car is lowered. The more it is lowered, the more important the bump and alignment adjustments become.
Since doing a bump steer check and adjustment is pretty labor intensive I elected to go conservative with my cut.
I really didn't give a rats a$$ about the gap or how it looked, I was strictly looking for a slightly lower CG and slightly better handling, while keeping the civilized street feel that I like about the car.
I also didn't want to rip off my MM 4 point K brace or H/E on any driveways or speed bumps.
So while I was doing the Delrin in the rear, I cut 1/3 of a coil.
During the Canton road race pan install I had the tech I paid cut 1/4 coil from the front.
To evaluate the current ride height it will be helpful to know that the OE battery is now in the trunk, and the car now has the following heavier than stock items added to it.
LFP rad = more coolant than stock
LFP H/E
2.3 Whipple
Global West SFCs (50 pounds!)
Auto Power 4 point roll bar
5 point harnesses
I of course did do an alignment but have not yet gotten it "bumped".
Ok here's the pics.
And here is one lap at MSR Houston the 2007 SCMC Cobra Nationals, for an idea how it handles on slightly shorter stock springs and shocks. Tires are Kumho 700s(front) and 710s(rears).
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=03ALG6pN_R0"]YouTube - Jimmysidecarr Takes a Lap Around MSR-H[/ame]
..
Any coil spring that is shortened will increase in rate, linear or progressive.
The increase in rate on a progressive is usually more since the "soft" part of the coil is what is available to get cut. A cut linear rate spring will increase in rate less than a cut progressive.
An alignment should always be done.
Preferably the car should be "bumped" or have the bump steer checked at the NEW RIDE HEIGHT and adjusted to minimize it's negative effects on handling.
This all depends on how much the car is lowered. The more it is lowered, the more important the bump and alignment adjustments become.
Since doing a bump steer check and adjustment is pretty labor intensive I elected to go conservative with my cut.
I really didn't give a rats a$$ about the gap or how it looked, I was strictly looking for a slightly lower CG and slightly better handling, while keeping the civilized street feel that I like about the car.
I also didn't want to rip off my MM 4 point K brace or H/E on any driveways or speed bumps.
So while I was doing the Delrin in the rear, I cut 1/3 of a coil.
During the Canton road race pan install I had the tech I paid cut 1/4 coil from the front.
To evaluate the current ride height it will be helpful to know that the OE battery is now in the trunk, and the car now has the following heavier than stock items added to it.
LFP rad = more coolant than stock
LFP H/E
2.3 Whipple
Global West SFCs (50 pounds!)
Auto Power 4 point roll bar
5 point harnesses
I of course did do an alignment but have not yet gotten it "bumped".
Ok here's the pics.
And here is one lap at MSR Houston the 2007 SCMC Cobra Nationals, for an idea how it handles on slightly shorter stock springs and shocks. Tires are Kumho 700s(front) and 710s(rears).
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=03ALG6pN_R0"]YouTube - Jimmysidecarr Takes a Lap Around MSR-H[/ame]
..
Last edited:
Thanks Jimmy...great info as always!!!
Good to see someone with cut springs that actually races their car...I guess that's proof that cutting the stock springs is a legitimate lowering option!!!
Later...Dave
Good to see someone with cut springs that actually races their car...I guess that's proof that cutting the stock springs is a legitimate lowering option!!!
Later...Dave
Some cool spring tech and info for you guys looking to cut your springs...
Tech Page for Coil and leaf springs:
http://www.eatonsprings.com/atqMainPage.htm
Later...Dave
Tech Page for Coil and leaf springs:
http://www.eatonsprings.com/atqMainPage.htm
Later...Dave
Last edited:
Every car has been different when it comes to alignment. I have never seen 2 cars the same when it comes to this. My suggestion is that you get some good quality caster camber plates, like Maximum Motorsports, so it can be aligned easier and has more room for adjustment.
You are correct about what I was cutting in the pictures. The 3/4 was the rear and the 1 full coil was from the front. Those springs went on "texaswrx's" car.
The tool I use to cut them is an air cut off similar to this.
It has a 3" cut off wheel disc and hooks up to an air compressor. It gives a really clean and precise cut. I feel it is the best option when cutting springs.
I bought my tool from Harbor Freight for $9.99 .
For only wanting to drop your car a little I would go with 1/2 coil in the front and 1/2 in the rear. Of course every car is a little different but this should get you the desired results.
A good rule of thumb when cutting is that it is easier to cut too little than too much! You can always go back and take a little more off but you can't add material back on.
Good luck! :beer:
i just cut my springs, and i cant seem to get this answer yet. it didnt lower my car the way i wanted( granted im not driving it right now) but i cut the tops of the springs. is this bad?
- Status
Users who are viewing this thread
