Synthetic Oils

[02reaper]

Without quoting your post Jimmy, that's about all I could find on the search for him.

 

[chuckstang]

Once again to clarify, I agree that 5w30 is probably the most ideal oil.

My concern is over people freaking out and possible voiding their warranties when in reality 5w20 is probably fine(not ideal) even with modified HP.

Are you sure about the warranty? I'll quote the manual.

"To protect your engine and engine’s warranty, use Motorcraft SAE
5W-20 or an equivalent SAE 5W-20 oil meeting Ford specification
WSS-M2C945-A. SAE 5W-20 oil provides optimum fuel economy and
durability performance meeting all requirements for your
vehicle’s engine. Refer to Maintenance product specifications and
capacities later in this chapter for more information.
Do not use supplemental engine oil additives, cleaners or other engine
treatments. They are unnecessary and could lead to engine damage that
is not covered by Ford warranty."

They don't say Motorcraft 5w20 or other oil meeting Ford spec, they specify 5w20 Ford spec. And honesty Ford's rep isn't the best right now for warranty and service.

Thoughts?

So if we are going on technicalities, does the Motorcraft fully synthetic 5w20 oil void your warranty as well?

 

[SVTStampede]

So if we are going on technicalities, does the Motorcraft fully synthetic 5w20 oil void your warranty as well?

I can't think of a reason why it would? What am I missing?

It's even the correct Ford spec WSS-M2C945-A

SAE 5W-20 Full Synthetic Motor Oil

 

[JerryC]

How much better is the FORD "full synthetic" than the "synthetic blend"?

 

[cababah]

How much better is the FORD "full synthetic" than the "synthetic blend"?

the above link a few posts up has spec sheets you can use to compare the flash points, various temps etc etc.

 

[JerryC]

the above link a few posts up has spec sheets you can use to compare the flash points, various temps etc etc.

Yeah I see that, and it means nothing to me I'm not even an educated user when it comes to oil.

I'm hoping UB will give me his opinion as to what the "real world" diffierence will be. Also what the difference between them is, is it a "real" synthetic or a "fake" like the Castrol mentioned above, etc...

 

[UnleashedBeast]

Motorcraft Syn Blend is approximately 80% group II dino and 20% group IV base stock blended.

Motorcraft Full syn is 100% group III hydrocracked base stock.

Both are bottled by Conoco Phillips. Full syn will provide slightly longer oil change intervals, but not by much. Syn blend has proven itself to have a lot of bang for the buck. Both lubricants are API SN certified, so they both have to meet the same "minimum" specifications. Although, that's not saying very much. I've seen borderline CRAP oil meet API SN certs.

 

[JerryC]

UB, thanks. That's what I wanted to know.

 

[3Mach1]

Here is my question. I have an older 03 year 4.6 4v engine and all I have ever put in it is motorcraft 5w 20. I dont race it or beat on it but on occasion like to open it up.

With all I have read here would I be better off to run 10w 30 motorcraft or 5w 30? It runs year round and I have not had any engine trouble. Or maybe run 10w 30 in the summer and 5w 50 in the winter? I cant hardly justify the extra for synthetic. Motorcraft oil seems like a bargain for what it is to me.

Thanks for any insight.

I forgot to add here in Kentucky we get extreme weather from 10 degrees and sometimes lower than that up to 100 and thats not uncommon either.

 

[chuckstang]

anyone know the price dif between the motorcraft full synthetic 5w20 vs the blend?

 

[UnleashedBeast]

Here is my question. I have an older 03 year 4.6 4v engine and all I have ever put in it is motorcraft 5w 20. I dont race it or beat on it but on occasion like to open it up.

With all I have read here would I be better off to run 10w 30 motorcraft or 5w 30? It runs year round and I have not had any engine trouble. Or maybe run 10w 30 in the summer and 5w 50 in the winter? I cant hardly justify the extra for synthetic. Motorcraft oil seems like a bargain for what it is to me.

Thanks for any insight.

I forgot to add here in Kentucky we get extreme weather from 10 degrees and sometimes lower than that up to 100 and thats not uncommon either.

If you really want an oil that can do it all, and you don't have to change viscosity from Winter to Summer, this is what I would use in Kentucky.

Amsoil 0W-30

Amsoil EaO11 oil filter

Amsoil AZO 0W-30 will exceed all minimum performance requirements of Ford's WSS-M2C945-A and WSS-M2C930-A.

...but don't let Amsoil's 10W-30 fool you. It still thickens less at 32*F than Mobil 1 5W-30, so even Amsoil 10W-30 will be perfectly fine in the temperature extremes you experience during the year in Kentucky.

Amsoil ATM 10W-30

anyone know the price dif between the motorcraft full synthetic 5w20 vs the blend?

I've honestly never noticed it on the shelf at any of the local parts stores. They only stock synthetic blend 5W-20.

 

[3Mach1]

If you really want an oil that can do it all, and you don't have to change viscosity from Winter to Summer, this is what I would use in Kentucky.

Amsoil 0W-30

Amsoil EaO11 oil filter

Amsoil AZO 0W-30 will exceed all minimum performance requirements of Ford's WSS-M2C945-A and WSS-M2C930-A.

...but don't let Amsoil's 10W-30 fool you. It still thickens less at 32*F than Mobil 1 5W-30, so even Amsoil 10W-30 will be perfectly fine in the temperature extremes you experience during the year in Kentucky.

Amsoil ATM 10W-30



I've honestly never noticed it on the shelf at any of the local parts stores. They only stock synthetic blend 5W-20.

Thanks. When I said 5w 50 that was a typo and I could not go back and edit it. :cuss: I meant to say 5w 30.

I do appreciate your opinion though. That Amsoil is expensive! I think I will go with 5w 30 Motorcraft since its easy to get my hands on and not terribly expensive. I have been using just regular motorcraft filters also and seldom if ever exceed 5K miles per change. I do drive this car harder than your normal car of course but I do not abuse it in anyway.

Thanks for bringing to light the deal about why Ford went to 20 weight oil. Its a real eye opener for me.

 

[Coyote 5.0]

Just use what Ford tells you to use. Oil is just oil there all good!

So true!!!! The key is not the type of oil but changing it!!! I had an 03 Cobra for 7 1/2 years and used nothing but 5W20 dino and I used it for many HPDE with a problem.

 

[try03venom]

great thread what about 0w-30 or 0w-40 mobil one?

 

[Scottward]

great thread what about 0w-30 or 0w-40 mobil one?

I've been running the Mobil 0W weight oils for awhile now in all my vehicles and they all run great. Many of the UAOs from Bob is the Oil Guy show minimal wear and high amounts of Moly, which is a very good thing. You also can't beat picking up the 5 quart Mobil jugs at Wally World for ~$24.00 each.

 

[UnleashedBeast]

You also can't beat picking up the 5 quart Mobil jugs at Wally World for ~$24.00 each.

If you are buying Mobil 1 in the 5 quart jugs....go ahead and opt for the EP (extended performance) version. For only $4.50 more, you get superior performance because it's a 100% true synthetic.

 

[Scottward]

If you are buying Mobil 1 in the 5 quart jugs....go ahead and opt for the EP (extended performance) version. For only $4.50 more, you get superior performance because it's a 100% true synthetic.

That's a good oil, but I've had good luck with the Mobil 0W weights, so I'll stick with them unless the formula changes.

 

[Z25OH]

If you are buying Mobil 1 in the 5 quart jugs....go ahead and opt for the EP (extended performance) version. For only $4.50 more, you get superior performance because it's a 100% true synthetic.

what about German castrol 0w30 european formula? What are your thoughts on it...am debating between redline, PP, GC...thank you

 

[BlackMamba3]

First off, this thread got heated real quick. UnleashedBeast, you seem to really know your stuff so these questions are directed towards you. First, I know the stock 5.0 motor comes with 5w20. My question is, at around 5000-7500 miles would it be wise to switch to either Royal Purple or Mobil 1 10w30 full synthetic? My second question is, before I throw a supercharger on my motor, I'm going to be doing some road racing so my motor will have the usual mods, Boss mani, CAI, ported heads, N/A cams, etc. so would using Mobil 1 Racing 0w30 or 0w50 be a wise choice or not? Feel free to answer how you see fit or offer other options. I'm open to and feedback especially after reading all the posts on this thread. Thanks.

 

[UnleashedBeast]

That's a good oil, but I've had good luck with the Mobil 0W weights, so I'll stick with them unless the formula changes.

what about German castrol 0w30 european formula? What are your thoughts on it...am debating between redline, PP, GC...thank you

First off, this thread got heated real quick. UnleashedBeast, you seem to really know your stuff so these questions are directed towards you. First, I know the stock 5.0 motor comes with 5w20. My question is, at around 5000-7500 miles would it be wise to switch to either Royal Purple or Mobil 1 10w30 full synthetic? My second question is, before I throw a supercharger on my motor, I'm going to be doing some road racing so my motor will have the usual mods, Boss mani, CAI, ported heads, N/A cams, etc. so would using Mobil 1 Racing 0w30 or 0w50 be a wise choice or not? Feel free to answer how you see fit or offer other options. I'm open to and feedback especially after reading all the posts on this thread. Thanks.

This reply will answer all three quotes above. The reason why I choose a 10W-30 over a 0W-30 is due to two important areas of engine oil performance.

1. NOACK Volatility

• true synthetic 10W-30 will have a much lower NOACK %. This means that less oil evaporates/vaporizes, and re condenses inside the PCV system. This will allow less oil to build up inside your supercharger, intake manifold, throttle body, intake valves, and combustion chamber. People who use engine lubricants with very low NOACK report less oil contamination in their oil catch cans as well. *50% less, sometimes more depending on their previous engine lubricant being used*

2. Shearing Stability

• The closer the first and second numbers are on the SAE ratings, the more shear stability a lubricant will have. True synthetic 10W-30 lubricants normally do not change viscosity at all. They contain little to no viscosity improvers that "cheat" the grade and can wear out. If you do not drive your car in freezing weather under 32*F, using a 0W lubricant is pointless. True synthetic 10W-30 will flow just as well @ 32*F as petroleum based 5W-30.