Suspension Tech: Bring It!

[chvyeter]

Weight savings. If you do the RS003 which retains the front sway bar, you'd drop about 8 lbs. If you do the RS002 that removes the front sway bar, you'll drop about 25 lbs.

Sweet you've answered a lot of questions. Thanks for your help. I'll be ordering very soon.

 

[BMR Tech 2]

No problem, man! Hit me up when you're ready.

 

[chvyeter]

No problem, man! Hit me up when you're ready.

I will do that

 

[AKDMB]

Looking to redo my front suspension. Strange 10 ways, GT500 Strut Mounts and Steeda Sports currently. I have some squeek coming from the front end, that I can't identify currently. Nudge the car slightly and the noise is a sharp squeek that quickly increases in frequency and fades. Almost positive it's the struts, I will troubleshoot it some this weekend if I have time. Who knows, haven't looked at it too closely. If I'm pulling the front suspension apart again, I'm completely redoing it. I'm thinking Koni Yellows all around, keep the Steeda Sports, Vorshlag Caster Camber Plates, BMR Sway Bar End Links, and right now I'm thinking of getting a new BMR sway bar while I'm in there. My question is, which Sway Bar would BMR recommend for the front the 3 hole 35mm or the 5 hole 38mm ? Not an all out handling setup, just a street car, daily driver. I don't want to pull the front end apart again, I want to put it together right and be done with it. Car is a 2012 3.7 V6 with the Performance Pack. Should have GT sways (maybe GT500 sways? not sure what the factory performance pack came with, sway bar wise) on it already. I would like to not touch the rear sway if possible, if it's needed with the upgraded front sway bar I may consider it or just skip the frontbar all together, just trying to get an idea right now. Trying to stay with BMR brand too, they have given me a lot of helpful info over the years.

 

[BMR Tech 2]

What size is your rear sway bar? Is it the 22mm or the 24mm?

 

[AKDMB]

Will have to measure it tomorrow, away from the car right now

 

[The Beast 2014]

Question for the BMR guys. I have BRM LCA's non adjustable, BRM panhard bar and steeda springs lowered about 1.25 in the bank and 1.00 in the front. This weekend I installed the BMR LCA relocation brackets and put the LCA's in the bottom hole. It rained yesterday and the LCA's are squeaking. I suspect its the wet bushings in brackets since this didn't happen prior to the relo brackets.



Thoughts?

 

[AKDMB]

I measured the front and rear sway bar in a few different places and here are the results.

Front Sway Bar: 35mm

Rear Sway Bar: 24mm

Also, I made a quick video of the noise, as you can hear, it's pretty horrible. I didn't think I could capture it that well, but because it's so darn loud, it came out great. I still think it's the struts, but let me know what you guys think. I also thought it could be the wheel bearing too, maybe the barrel of the wheel is magnifying it, compressing the strut can create a moment about the wheel bearing so maybe that too? The video is below, I think I can still hear this noise in my sleep. Car doesn't get driven much during the summer, so it's not too big of a deal right now fortunately.

https://youtu.be/HMBSpr6GdYU

 

[BMR Tech 2]

Question for the BMR guys. I have BRM LCA's non adjustable, BRM panhard bar and steeda springs lowered about 1.25 in the bank and 1.00 in the front. This weekend I installed the BMR LCA relocation brackets and put the LCA's in the bottom hole. It rained yesterday and the LCA's are squeaking. I suspect its the wet bushings in brackets since this didn't happen prior to the relo brackets.



Thoughts?

It definitely could be. I usually recommend putting some grease on the bushing faces to prevent squeaks like that after installation. Throw a pump of grease in the rear bushings and it should work it's way out to the ends and quiet down. I would also recommend moving the LCAs up to the middle hole, having them in the lowest hole with those springs is going to give you quite a bit of anti-squat.

I measured the front and rear sway bar in a few different places and here are the results.

Front Sway Bar: 35mm

Rear Sway Bar: 24mm

Also, I made a quick video of the noise, as you can hear, it's pretty horrible. I didn't think I could capture it that well, but because it's so darn loud, it came out great. I still think it's the struts, but let me know what you guys think. I also thought it could be the wheel bearing too, maybe the barrel of the wheel is magnifying it, compressing the strut can create a moment about the wheel bearing so maybe that too? The video is below, I think I can still hear this noise in my sleep. Car doesn't get driven much during the summer, so it's not too big of a deal right now fortunately.

https://youtu.be/HMBSpr6GdYU

I would do the SB041 front bar. It should pair nicely with your stock rear bar until you decide if you want to do an upgraded rear bar.

I really have no idea what that noise is. It looks and sounds like it continues after the suspension has stopped moving. I'd take a look at the struts and springs, see if there is any rubbing or witness marks on them. Have you contacted Strange to see if they've run into a sound like that with their struts before? It's not something that we've seen here.

 

[Mazen89]

I just realized that I replyed to an old thread that you posted about drag packages a year ago lol, this is probably its appropriate place, so here it is

Kelly! long time no talk, great stuff. My setup (your recommendation) is pretty much level 1.

I was on stock springs for some time and I installed the BMR drag springs back in Dec 2014, which was a big improvement. I went from 1.56-1.57 to a best of 1.50 60ft and I consistently run low 1.5s and I am hoping with your help I can break into 1.4s. My car is a stick shift all motor making about 464 rwhp.

here's my setup:

BMR Drag springs
BMR LCA (TCA020) & UCL UTCA033 ( Lower hole)
BMR LCA brackets (lowest hole)
Strange SA struts with GT500 strut mounts set at 3
Viking DA shocks

Everything had been measured and plotted and the Anti Squat is 121.13% now. Overall, I am happy with this, but I think there's more to be gained possibly with adjusting the shocks ?

Here's an old comparison video that I think you will like : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hPUO-IVDccU


Anyway, I am going back to the track very soon, and I wanted to know what adjustment you think I should make.

Here's a recent run : https://www.youtube.com/watch?edit=vd&v=36rg41QmRXo

I was told that I had lots of Anti Squat and I have no idea how to fix it I played with the settings a few times but did not see a major improvement. The 60ft was 1.51 in this run.

Launch was at 7k RPM
Tire Pressure was 11 PSI
Front struts @ 3
Rear Shocks 13C 4R,




Just FYI, I am running Hoosier 28/10.5 stiff wall since 2014 I had countless runs on them and I drive them on the streets when I go to the track .. I wonder if a new set of slicks would make a difference, they seem to be hooking just fine lol

Thanks Kelly!!

Mazen-

 

[BMR Tech 2]

Your car looks like it's leaving perfectly and I'm not sure you're going to get much better than that. Here are some things you can try:

1. Add 1-2 clicks of rebound and see if that will help. You're hitting the tires pretty hard and a more gradual hit may help you out.
2. Leave at 7200 RPM if possible. That might give you the little extra bump to get out faster.
3. Drop some weight from the car.

 

[Mazen89]

Your car looks like it's leaving perfectly and I'm not sure you're going to get much better than that. Here are some things you can try:

1. Add 1-2 clicks of rebound and see if that will help. You're hitting the tires pretty hard and a more gradual hit may help you out.
2. Leave at 7200 RPM if possible. That might give you the little extra bump to get out faster.
3. Drop some weight from the car.

thanks for the reply! I will try that next time out. But man I see some folks with very similar setups running low to mid 1.4s and their cars just act differently when they launch like they would squat down a bit. My car like goes up in the air and stays their for a while lol

thanks again

 

[BMR Tech 2]

Adding more rebound will slow down how quickly the car raises. Their cars are squatting because their anti-squat is lower than yours. More antisquat will almost always result in a faster car, assuming that you're not breaking traction.

 

[HighTorque]

I have a question... If I am running QA1 single adjustable rear shocks do I go (+) or (-) when at the drag strip?

 

[BMR Tech 2]

I have a question... If I am running QA1 single adjustable rear shocks do I go (+) or (-) when at the drag strip?

You will likely want to stiffen them up at the track compared to the settings you run on the street.

 

[HighTorque]

Thats what i figured. I will be updrgading to viking double in the fall so that will make it even more confusing lol

 

[Slow Five-O]

How important is having an adjustable upper control arm and mount? what are the benefits of having the mount, and can i do just the UCA, w/out the mount?

i have all bmr LCA's, relocation brackets, adjustable panhard bar, and bmr drag drag springs (whenever they finally ship, it's been several weeks).

car is just a tune and bolt on A6 right now. future goals is to get it to run 6.80-6.90's in the 1/8th. daily driven

 

[BMR Tech 2]

Having an adjustable UCA will help you dial in your pinion angle to prevent driveline vibration, and the stiffer bushings will help reduce wheel hop. Mount isn't required, but this thread will show you why you want to have one:

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?1110506-S197-Control-Arm-Differences&highlight=

 

[Slow Five-O]

Thanks for the info! I'll add them both to my next order!

 

[Redline8k]

ok I have some questions as well. I have a bolt on A6 14 gt, I have the sp009 springs, UCA, panhard etc... I have gt500 tophats and Im going to buy the strange 10 way fronts. I would like to build them before I remove the stock stuff for ease of install. Do I need the rubber isolators that are on the factory springs? should I buy those and shock boots? As for the rear shocks Im thinking just the strange single adjustables. I have plans of a blower sometime but its far away at this point. what is everyones opinion of the singles?
thanks for the advice.