Suspension Tech: Bring It!

[BMR Tech 2]

I have read that some cutting may be required on the Watts link axle mounts when lowering ~1.5" or more. I'm looking to drop closer to 2" (from stock) this summer. Is there a recommended area that should be modified? Also, for an aggressively low ride height which pivot hole would be recommended to start with and make further adjustments from?

The axle clamps will have to be trimmed so that they don't contact the body of the car.

Which mounting hole you choose is all a matter of driver preference. I prefer having a lower RC because the car feels more stable. What sway bars do you have on the car?

 

[Brostang]

The axle clamps will have to be trimmed so that they don't contact the body of the car.

Which mounting hole you choose is all a matter of driver preference. I prefer having a lower RC because the car feels more stable. What sway bars do you have on the car?

Thanks. I'll be running the stock sway bars for now.

 

[BMR Tech 2]

Thanks. I'll be running the stock sway bars for now.

I would start out in the middle or 4th hole up from the bottom with a stock sway bar, but the best thing to do is to try a couple different positions to find out which one you like the best.

 

[Mark Aubele]

My car is lowered 1.5" or so, and the watts does contact the OAPs (lethal 2.75") in large dips. This only happened after trimming the bumpstops down to just the "big nub". I have very stiff springs (800/350) so it only makes contact on very large bumps.

I also have been running the RC as low as possible while keeping the bars level, I believe it is in the 2nd hole from the bottom. I prefer the roll canter low as Dylan said above as well.

 

[Brezick]

I just finished installing the viking shocks, and for whatever reason I had to remove the BMR springs to get the shock to reach the upper mount.

I put the springs back in but the rear passenger is a good 1/4" lower than the drivers. I can barely fit my finger in there. I did not think the orientation mattered for the srpings, but thats the only thing I can think of that would mess with the ride hieght. Is there a specific direction or placement I needed to put the springs back in. (Note I did not install them initially, so I did not think to pay attention to where they were at before removing them).

Edit: Also while I am posting, Car is Hellion TT making about 650rwhp, has BMR upper lowers, PH, and springs. Based on reading this thread, is 5C/7R a good place to start on the shocks?

 

[Growlar]

So is there a drag spring out there anywhere that DOESNT lower the car?

 

[Thalilbear02]

I wish I had time to get everything installed right away, but then again I'm also looking forward to installing everything myself! After opening everything up and seeing how great the quality is, I'm extremely happy, really top notch work.

 

[BMR Tech 2]

I just finished installing the viking shocks, and for whatever reason I had to remove the BMR springs to get the shock to reach the upper mount.

I put the springs back in but the rear passenger is a good 1/4" lower than the drivers. I can barely fit my finger in there. I did not think the orientation mattered for the srpings, but thats the only thing I can think of that would mess with the ride hieght. Is there a specific direction or placement I needed to put the springs back in. (Note I did not install them initially, so I did not think to pay attention to where they were at before removing them).

Edit: Also while I am posting, Car is Hellion TT making about 650rwhp, has BMR upper lowers, PH, and springs. Based on reading this thread, is 5C/7R a good place to start on the shocks?

Sorry for the late response, I must have missed this post.

The orientation of the springs doesn't matter, as long as they are both oriented the same way. 1/4" from side to side is fairly common on the S197, and is a result of factory tolerances when building the bodies.

Stick or auto? What tires are you running?

So is there a drag spring out there anywhere that DOESNT lower the car?

We don't make any. The only drag spring kit I know of that will not lower the car is early Cobra jet springs.

I wish I had time to get everything installed right away, but then again I'm also looking forward to installing everything myself! After opening everything up and seeing how great the quality is, I'm extremely happy, really top notch work.

View attachment 67433

I can't wait to see what you do with the car, Jurrian!

 

[Brezick]

Sorry for the late response, I must have missed this post.

The orientation of the springs doesn't matter, as long as they are both oriented the same way. 1/4" from side to side is fairly common on the S197, and is a result of factory tolerances when building the bodies.

Stick or auto? What tires are you running?

Height is all good now after pointing them in same direction.

It is an auto with MT ET Street Radial Pro - 275/60/15

 

[11gtcs]

My driver side rear was a full 1/2" higher than the passenger side with factory spings and shocks. I measured from the center of the hubs to the fender lip. I thought I might have had a soft spring on the passenger side and was hoping that my new springs and shocks would even things out. After installing my new FRPP springs and shocks I am still sitting a full 1/2" higher on the driver side rear. The springs were installed in the same orientation. Any ideas?

 

[BMR Tech 2]

Height is all good now after pointing them in same direction.

It is an auto with MT ET Street Radial Pro - 275/60/15

Perfect, that would be a great starting point.

My driver side rear was a full 1/2" higher than the passenger side with factory spings and shocks. I measured from the center of the hubs to the fender lip. I thought I might have had a soft spring on the passenger side and was hoping that my new springs and shocks would even things out. After installing my new FRPP springs and shocks I am still sitting a full 1/2" higher on the driver side rear. The springs were installed in the same orientation. Any ideas?

Fairly normal variance on the S197, although yours is a little excessive. Ford spec calls for +/- .3" on ride height, your car may just be a little bit more out of spec or there could be another issue. I would imagine that since it's happening with two different sets of springs, it's probably in the construction of the car. You could always try an adjustable spring perch if it bothers you that much.

 

[djclark]

For the following setup :

Bilstein Shocks/Struts
FRPP K Springs
245/45R19 front Potenza S04 Pole Position
275/40R19 rear Potenza S04 Pole Position
SB041 front bar
SB042 rear bar

This has to do with the BMR sways I have.

What is the best starting point for a neutral handling setup ? Would you go stiffer up front and then use rear bar to cancel out any understeer ?

 

[Zinc03Cobra]

Hey there BMR,

Lately I've been getting a rattle in the back and it turns out my driver side JPC over-axle pipe (with Borla S type axle backs) is rubbing/hitting the BMR Panhard Bar Support Brace. After adjusting the exhaust several times and in several diff. configurations, I can't seem to get more than the thickness of a dime between the brace and the exhaust.

I've thought about adding a few washers to each of the 15mm bolts holding the brace on the driver side. Would this be an acceptable long term solution? I also thought about maybe adding some exhaust wrap in that particular area just in case it shifts under load or at WOT to act as a cushion.

Used your photo for reference.. the pipe on the driver side is pretty much resting on the brace.

My suspensions mods are minimal. Ford K-springs, MM cc plates, BMR LCAs/Brackets, Panhard Support Brace.

thanks

-lex

 

[Derek@Lethal]

My driver side rear was a full 1/2" higher than the passenger side with factory spings and shocks. I measured from the center of the hubs to the fender lip. I thought I might have had a soft spring on the passenger side and was hoping that my new springs and shocks would even things out. After installing my new FRPP springs and shocks I am still sitting a full 1/2" higher on the driver side rear. The springs were installed in the same orientation. Any ideas?

Sit in the driver seat and have a friend measure again... problem solved ;-)

 

[BMR Tech 2]

For the following setup :

Bilstein Shocks/Struts
FRPP K Springs
245/45R19 front Potenza S04 Pole Position
275/40R19 rear Potenza S04 Pole Position
SB041 front bar
SB042 rear bar

This has to do with the BMR sways I have.

What is the best starting point for a neutral handling setup ? Would you go stiffer up front and then use rear bar to cancel out any understeer ?

I would start with the softest setting on the front bar, and either the first or second on the rear bar.

Hey there BMR,

Lately I've been getting a rattle in the back and it turns out my driver side JPC over-axle pipe (with Borla S type axle backs) is rubbing/hitting the BMR Panhard Bar Support Brace. After adjusting the exhaust several times and in several diff. configurations, I can't seem to get more than the thickness of a dime between the brace and the exhaust.

I've thought about adding a few washers to each of the 15mm bolts holding the brace on the driver side. Would this be an acceptable long term solution? I also thought about maybe adding some exhaust wrap in that particular area just in case it shifts under load or at WOT to act as a cushion.

Used your photo for reference.. the pipe on the driver side is pretty much resting on the brace.

My suspensions mods are minimal. Ford K-springs, MM cc plates, BMR LCAs/Brackets, Panhard Support Brace.

thanks

-lex

Yeah, that shouldn't be an issue. Just pay attention because if you go too far, you may end up with PHR to PHR support contact. You may also want to consider getting some longer bolts as well.

 

[11gtcs]

Perfect, that would be a great starting point.



Fairly normal variance on the S197, although yours is a little excessive. Ford spec calls for +/- .3" on ride height, your car may just be a little bit more out of spec or there could be another issue. I would imagine that since it's happening with two different sets of springs, it's probably in the construction of the car. You could always try an adjustable spring perch if it bothers you that much.

That's defiantly something to consider but I am not that worried about it at the moment if the fix isn't cheap or free.

Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[11gtcs]

Sit in the driver seat and have a friend measure again... problem solved ;-)

What if I always roll with a passenger? Haha :/

Thanks!

 

['99Ranger]

I'm thinking about aftermarket control arms. I'm on my 3rd set of factory arms on my 13 GT Track Pack and the ball joints and bushings are going bad again.

I've read that people have issues with steering wheel shake after using aftermarket arms. Is that something I would need to be concerned about with your arms?

Thanks,
Bill

 

[Gpcalero]

I'm thinking about aftermarket control arms. I'm on my 3rd set of factory arms on my 13 GT Track Pack and the ball joints and bushings are going bad again.

I've read that people have issues with steering wheel shake after using aftermarket arms. Is that something I would need to be concerned about with your arms?

Thanks,
Bill

I replaced my arms with the BMR stuff and have never had any kind of shaking issues.


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['99Ranger]

I replaced my arms with the BMR stuff and have never had any kind of shaking issues.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks. Although it appears I'm having more issues than I originally thought. Today while I was driving my car I noticed a heavier steering effort and the wheel wouldn't return to center after being turned to approx 30-45 degrees off center. Also the Service Advancetrac message came on the dash after driving through the city and bouncing over cobblestones.