Suspension Tech: Bring It!

[BMR Tech 2]

sorry i got trigger happy when cut/pasting. i am running a UTCA032.

the shocks had only 31k miles on them... sigh. i don't have perfect california roads where i'm from, but it's not bomb cratered like in new york. seeing how these died and eibach won't warranty them, what would you recommend? everything i read seems to lean towards koni str.t.

What hole are you running the arm in on the mount? Upper or lower?

I'd recommend a set of the Str.T. I run a set on my 08' with the SP009 and the ride is excellent.

Can you snap me some pics of the UCA/UCM and the area where it's hitting?

 

[dc2r]

What hole are you running the arm in on the mount? Upper or lower?

I'd recommend a set of the Str.T. I run a set on my 08' with the SP009 and the ride is excellent.

Can you snap me some pics of the UCA/UCM and the area where it's hitting?

it will take awhile for pics as i have to schedule time with the shop to go back on the hoist.

 

[dc2r]

What hole are you running the arm in on the mount? Upper or lower?

Can you snap me some pics of the UCA/UCM and the area where it's hitting?

it's mounted in the upper hole. still no pics yet.

 

[BMR Tech 2]

Next time you have the car in the air, drop the UCA to the lower hole and report back.

 

[Scott8583]

Next time you have the car in the air, drop the UCA to the lower hole and report back.

Lower hole on the upper w/ 1 1/2" drop? Isn't the lower hole for stock ride height?

 

[BMR Tech 2]

While it's not ideal for his set up, if the arm is hitting the chassis the lower hole may prevent this. He can correct the arm angles by resetting the pinion angle, and adjusting which hole his relos are set to. I would recommend moving them up one (if you have a stick car) when you drop the UCA mount hole down. If it's an auto, just leave the relo in the same hole.

 

[dc2r]

it's a 6spd man. brembo track pack car.

when it was installed at the first shop i went to we were told what Scott8583 said, ie. top hole. and it was fine for the eibach pro kit springs i had at the time, which i later swapped out for the sp009's. for awhile it was okay but when the springs settled it started to hit the chassis, and the rear end started to shift to one side, so i will have to readjust the panhard bar again as well...

the second shop who diagnosed all of this thinks i would be better off getting rid of the bmr springs and go with an eibach sportline instead. again, i used to have the eibach pro kit springs before the sp009's but the ride was just too much for my old bones to handle on the bad roads i commute on. i really like the sp009's and i am hoping to keep them but i also don't want to keep throwing money at this just to compensate for them either

how difficult is it to change holes? does the entire arm and mount have to come out of the car again?

 

[BMR Tech 2]

Will you take some pictures of the car, as well as measuring from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the quarter panels and fenders? That will help us figure out what's going on here for you.

You'll have to drop the mount down to adjust the arms position. Get me some pics first though before you go through the work of swapping anything out just yet.

 

[dc2r]

not quite sure what i am supposed to measure... is it from the center of the wheel to the top of the fender arch you are referring to?

 

[BMR Tech 2]

Yes, measure from the wheel center to the bottom of the quarter panel in the rear, both sides. Also measure from the wheel center to the bottom of the fender (the part above the wheel, not the sides).

 

[dc2r]

i'm feeling stupid.

when you said "bottom of the quarter panel in the rear", are you referring to the bottom of the rear bumper, or the bottom of the side sill between the rear tire and the door?

 

[BMR Tech 2]

Measure where the red line is. Sorry if I wasn't being clear in my explanation.

 

[dc2r]

excuse the finger...

 

[Scott8583]

Looks like a rear spring issue, not a control arm issue... Put a taller spring in the rear so it's a little higher then the front. Definitely cut the top of the bump stop off...

 

[dc2r]

as things sit right now i am reluctant to cut the bumpstops because i fear it will cause the upper arm to hit the chassis even more...

 

[Redline8k]

Ok I just installed my poly lower control arms and relos. the car is stock height and the LCA are in the top hole. the car seems to plant better now but Im getting a weird rattle/squeak going slow over bumps and turns. I put about 7 pumps of green synthetic grease in each fitting. everything is torqued correctly in order etc.. should I put more grease in the bushings, do they need to work in a bit? I only drove the car for about 30 mins listening and "testing" launches...
Any ideas what I can go back and look for?

 

[BMR Tech]

Lower hole on the upper w/ 1 1/2" drop? Isn't the lower hole for stock ride height?

Per me, yes. But that is not a factual statement. For example, Roush recommends people to use the lower UCA Mounting position on a lowered S197.

If a customer has to use the lower position, there is nothing "wrong" with it, I would just tell them to decrease their LCA angle as it may not be needed.

I do have many customers running the lower hole on the upper, on lowered cars though. Several in the 1.1 sixty range at the drag strip too. :beer:

as things sit right now i am reluctant to cut the bumpstops because i fear it will cause the upper arm to hit the chassis even more...

I would really like to see pictures of your rear suspension set-up and where it is contacting.

Your car sits exactly how I like. The stance is great, and not something I would even consider worrying about.

We have the same suspension set-up on our 2011. Same springs, etc. We never experienced the UCA hitting the floor of the car, and we have beat on that car consistently. We also take it "off-roading" at higher rates of speed with 4 people in it.

If you are legitimately having the issue you are stating, I am almost confident it may simply be an OEM tolerance condition. There are too many thousands of people using the same parts without that occurring.

 

[BMR Tech]

Ok I just installed my poly lower control arms and relos. the car is stock height and the LCA are in the top hole. the car seems to plant better now but Im getting a weird rattle/squeak going slow over bumps and turns. I put about 7 pumps of green synthetic grease in each fitting. everything is torqued correctly in order etc.. should I put more grease in the bushings, do they need to work in a bit? I only drove the car for about 30 mins listening and "testing" launches...
Any ideas what I can go back and look for?

First, 7 pumps is too much. Hopefully you did not damage the bushings. I would inspect them and ensure that they are not bulged out. This is commonly called "hydraulicing" the bushing.

Second, I suggest you use a good grease like the Amsoil Polymeric:

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...ent-grease-nlgi-2/?code=GPTR2CR-EA&zo=1859448

If the noise continues after a few hundred miles, let's revisit it. But honestly, you will have NVH increases with any aftermarket LCA despite what other companies or customers state.

 

[dc2r]

I would really like to see pictures of your rear suspension set-up and where it is contacting.

Your car sits exactly how I like. The stance is great, and not something I would even consider worrying about.

We have the same suspension set-up on our 2011. Same springs, etc. We never experienced the UCA hitting the floor of the car, and we have beat on that car consistently. We also take it "off-roading" at higher rates of speed with 4 people in it.

If you are legitimately having the issue you are stating, I am almost confident it may simply be an OEM tolerance condition. There are too many thousands of people using the same parts without that occurring.

I'm trying but it's going to take awhile. i don't have garage of my own, and the mechanic said he would charge me for the time it takes to get it up on the hoist because it needs to be ramped up on lumber to get the arms under it, and on top of that he's fully booked at the moment.

all I have is this crummy pic that doesn't show much from just after the initial install...

 

[Redline8k]

First, 7 pumps is too much. Hopefully you did not damage the bushings. I would inspect them and ensure that they are not bulged out. This is commonly called "hydraulicing" the bushing.

Second, I suggest you use a good grease like the Amsoil Polymeric:

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...ent-grease-nlgi-2/?code=GPTR2CR-EA&zo=1859448

If the noise continues after a few hundred miles, let's revisit it. But honestly, you will have NVH increases with any aftermarket LCA despite what other companies or customers state.

I have good synthetic grease in there now. As for to much grease as stated it was pushing out of the sides of the bushings. maybe a recommended amount of pumps would help. please explain what to look for in terms of bulging. I will take photos and post again. I understand NVH increase, thats not the noise im worried about ie brakes, diff etc... its the metallic metal on metal squeak thats bothering me.